(Topic ID: 30741)

Share Your Jurassic Park Mods


By Phetishboy

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 690 posts
  • 150 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 months ago by mbott1701
  • Topic is favorited by 85 Pinsiders

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There are 690 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 14.
#501 2 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

My favorite mods:
LEDS under the inserts, retained but refreshed the incandescents in the GI above the playfeld - I much prefer the warm glow to LEDS here. Then the Red superbright under the TRex saucer. Also added a warm white frosted LED strip behind the banner to brighten-up that end of the cabinet.

Love that LED strip. It's really needed to, so dark back there. Looks great.

#502 2 years ago

Who makes those signs to cover the lights above the scoops?

#504 2 years ago

Still in the early stages of shopping out my JP, but I just made some graphics for the stand up targets.

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#505 2 years ago

Thanks! Ordered and should arrive shortly. Just got home to find my new plastics, Cliffy's and a couple of Papo dinos. All I need now is to order a few of your mods!

#506 2 years ago

They ship from New Zealand so it'll probably be a few weeks. I ordered mine April 10th and they still haven't shown up yet. Gonna look way better though!

1 week later
#507 2 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

They ship from New Zealand so it'll probably be a few weeks. I ordered mine April 10th and they still haven't shown up yet. Gonna look way better though!

Got mine Monday, installed them last night!

What are you guy putting behind them in regards to bulbs. I've tried everything I have and nothing is bright enough to actually shine though. Not that I really care because they look so much better!

#508 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Got mine Monday, installed them last night!
What are you guy putting behind them in regards to bulbs. I've tried everything I have and nothing is bright enough to actually shine though. Not that I really care because they look so much better!

I have concave top LEDs behind mine and they are very bright.

#509 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Got mine Monday, installed them last night!
What are you guy putting behind them in regards to bulbs. I've tried everything I have and nothing is bright enough to actually shine though. Not that I really care because they look so much better!

I actually made a video about this as I was making up my mind

#510 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Got mine Monday, installed them last night!
What are you guy putting behind them in regards to bulbs.

Yeah got mine last Thursday! Look awesome, I used Melo's video as a reference and ordered those bulbs, ended up using the yellow ones on bottom.

#511 2 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Still in the early stages of shopping out my JP, but I just made some graphics for the stand up targets.

Those look sweet! They look like they should've been there.

3 weeks later
#512 2 years ago

Thanks J-Freeze. If you want the image file let me know.

I just made one of those East Dock signs and added Tim's upgraded gate.

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#513 2 years ago

I would buy one of those Dock signs. Nice Job

#514 2 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I would buy one of those Dock signs. Nice Job

I would too. I have no idea how to make one, easier to buy it.

#515 2 years ago

Thanks guys. This was kind of a one-off and I'm not really set up to make parts to sell. Someone with a 3D printer could probably make a pretty cool sign. DIY, is pretty straight forward to put together, though.

I used the image of the sign that Libtech posted a while back. I just did some tweaks to that image, reworked the text and arrow.

Here is a file on my google drive with various sizes of the dock you can use. I used the smaller image for my sign.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4v11BwvP9WobFhIdk1jM25WVms

Supplies needed/suggested:

- Adhesive label paper or inkjet vinyl, with adhesive backing
- 1/8" white foam/poster board. You can get this at Hobby Lobby, Walmart, etc.
- Lamination sheet (optional)
- Clear Matte spray
- 2" metal post (could be longer depending on how large you want the sign)
- sharp hobby knife
- scissors
- hot glue
- white spray paint

Print out the image file (best quality) on your paper to essentially make it a sticker.

Choose which size you'd like for your sign. Then cut out a rough piece that includes all 3 graphic elements for the sign.

Stick that rough cutout on your foam board.

Then you can either cover with a piece of laminate or lightly spray some clear matte spray on it. Basically you want to protect the image and cut down on any gloss, so if you do laminate, give it a light spray after the lamination is applied.

Use an x-acto or other sharp hobby knife to carefully cut out the individual images for the sign. (the map, text block, and arrow octagon). You'll end up with 3 foam pieces with graphics on them.

Paint your 2" metal post with some white spray paint.

Once that's dry, use your hot glue gun to adhere the 3 foam pieces to the post.

Mount the sign in the location desired. For mine, I put it where one of the wood screws was holding down the plastics on the right side. In order to do this, I used a small metal hand saw to cut the screw part off a #6 screw. Then I threaded that into the post, essentially making the post a wood screw.

1 week later
#516 2 years ago

Just finished up adding a mini LCD to my game.
1.5" screen, connected to RaspberryPi B+ v2, loops a video clip of scenes from the movie using RPiLooper.

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video:

1 week later
#517 2 years ago
Quoted from bflagg:

I've done a few. Powder coated lockdown bar, side rails, legs and backbox hinges, coin reject inserts, instruction/freeplay cards, shadowbox for lit banner and led backlit backround. -Barry

Does anyone have these cards, especially the free play one? Barry said he can't find the originals.

https://images.pinside.com/9/f8/9f8024e22d3313ee8c7430ca8887945c5f7443f8/resized/large/9f8024e22d3313ee8c7430ca8887945c5f7443f8.jpg

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#518 2 years ago

I had the file, but I didn't create it. Here is the original pic and the person who created it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-custom-instruction-cards-jp-tftc#post-174196

2 weeks later
#519 2 years ago

how are you all attaching the palm trees to your play fields?

I have found some pretty realistic looking ones for model making with small plastic spikes on the bottoms.

I can cut them flat, but i'm not sure how to attach them without them popping off when the shaker motor goes.

#520 2 years ago

A variety of different ways...
dab of hot glue,
double sided tape,
cut out a piece of Plexiglas to fit over the plastics, then drill small holes in that to insert the tree.
or just drill a small hole in the plastic piece (not recommended since it will damage the original plastic)

For mine, I used black rigid hobby wire. I snipped off that spike you mentioned. Then drilled a small hole in the trunk of the trees. worked the one end of the wire in the hole, with some hot glue, then bent the wire around the trunk a bit. The other end the wire is wrapped around a post and tightened down with the nut.

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#521 2 years ago

My p.o. used this stuff which conveyed with the purchase. Works pretty well and non-damaging. I haven't had any come loose from pinballs.

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#522 2 years ago

I put on those same palm trees. I used wire (paper clips). Very similar to some of those above, I formed a loop in the wire with a needle nose pliers so that I could mount them to any existing screw. I then bent and cut the other side at an angle to create a sharpened point. I ran this through the bottom section of trunk and mounted them on the playfield. I haven't needed to, but a dab of hot glue would help the wire stay attached to the palm tree.

PS: On some of them I did pre-drill a very small hole to get them started.

#523 2 years ago

Sounds good guys, thanks for the quick responce.

#524 2 years ago
Quoted from hodgesm0:

how are you all attaching the palm trees to your play fields?
I have found some pretty realistic looking ones for model making with small plastic spikes on the bottoms.
I can cut them flat, but i'm not sure how to attach them without them popping off when the shaker motor goes.

Honestly, I struggled with this for awhile and finally came up with the perfect way. I drilled a pilot hole in the bottom, removed a nut off a stud where ever I wanted a tree, and literally screwed it on. It's super solid, like super and it holds down the plastic's perfect as well. No wires, putty, tape, etc. Looks like it should be there! Don't want them anymore? Selling and buyer doesn't like them? Unscrew them, put the nut back on, takes 10 secs.

#525 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Honestly, I struggled with this for awhile and finally came up with the perfect way. I drilled a pilot hole in the bottom, removed a nut off a stud where ever I wanted a tree, and literally screwed it on. It's super solid, like super and it holds down the plastic's perfect as well. No wires, putty, tape, etc. Looks like it should be there! Don't want them anymore? Selling and buyer doesn't like them? Unscrew them, put the nut back on, takes 10 secs.

Thanks, this sounds like the way to go.

#527 2 years ago

Pictures..

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#528 2 years ago

spencer Do you think it holds enough? The shaker hasnt popped any loose?

#529 2 years ago

Mine are as tight as the nuts that where once there. If you make the hole the right size, its just like using a nut. They will never come off on there own.

#530 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Mine are as tight as the nuts that where once there. If you make the hole the right size, its just like using a nut. They will never come off on there own.

What size drill bit did you use?

#531 2 years ago

That's a nice approach, but I do like having multiple trees in one location. I think it looks more realistic.

#532 2 years ago

It seems there is no be-all-end-all approach to the trees. Every method has pros and cons. I comes down to the type of trees you are installing, the location you want to put them, and the look you're going for.

#533 2 years ago

The Scotch 3M two sided tape works perfectly. 10 second blast with a hair dryer and it lets go with no residue left behind on the plastic. The clear stuff is almost invisible under trees or Goats feet.

#534 2 years ago

I use Glue Dots. They have permanent and removable versions, go on clear, and hold up even the heavy toys. I've got a Papo T-Rex on top of my backbox, all my trees, my goat, Raptor, etc all being held on with the removable ones, and nothing has fallen off/down yet.

http://www.gluedots.com/consumer-what-are-glue-dots.html

amazon.com link »

#536 2 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

That's a nice approach, but I do like having multiple trees in one location. I think it looks more realistic.

I kinda did too, but then you have to have a base and I didn't like how it covered up the plastic art. To each there own I guess.

#537 2 years ago

You can do both. Just bend some wire, stick it through the trunk of a second tree, and connect it below the nut (or first tree in your case).

4 months later
#538 2 years ago

The baby trex egg might be kinda cool.
amazon.com link »

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6 months later
#539 1 year ago

Not really a "MOD" but it defiantly makes mine a little unique. Son went to Comic con in Orlando and bought a new translite to have Jeff Goldblum sign for my machine. Its not installed yet as im waiting to put LEDS in it so it stays nice with less heat. But thought id share it will you all. It was like real mess the way his line was set up. Your stuff was signed by the time you even got near him. I wanted him to write "life finds a way" but didnt get what i wanted. At least he signed it in a light area....some things he used a black sharpie and signed in a black spot..not even visible. And at $90 a autograph, you kinda want it where you want it in the color you want. But im happy and wanted to share.

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3 months later
#540 1 year ago

Jp cars came in today

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1 month later
#541 1 year ago

Hi , my mod for the uggly lamps holder

Contact by PM if you are interessed

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1 month later
#542 1 year ago

Swapped my papo for a jurassic world raptor
Hes a lot more orange but better visable

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#543 1 year ago
Quoted from yoyokopter:

Hi , my mod for the uggly lamps holder

Contact by PM if you are interessed
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have the power shed and Bunker in my game and they look great. I designed a real computer screen that goes above the co trip room scoop that plays the stuff that was on Nedry’s computer along with the park ride screens.
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#544 1 year ago

SWEEET can you post a video Lonzo?

-3
#545 1 year ago

Guys: how many of you have turned off your left/right T. rex movement?

I feel like it’s unnecessary. Just need up/down

#546 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys: how many of you have turned off your left/right T. rex movement?
I feel like it’s unnecessary. Just need up/down

I think its neat to have him moving almost constantly. I wouldn't want to turn it off.

#547 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I have the power shed and Bunker in my game and they look great. I designed a real computer screen that goes above the co trip room scoop that plays the stuff that was on Nedry’s computer along with the park ride screens.
[quoted image]

Nice! “Samsung”? Wasn’t the writing on the screens something like silicon graphics?

#548 1 year ago
Quoted from koops:

Nice! “Samsung”? Wasn’t the writing on the screens something like silicon graphics?

I couldn’t tell what it was so I just came up with something. Lol
I should probably do some more research and fix it.

#549 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I have the power shed and Bunker in my game and they look great. I designed a real computer screen that goes above the co trip room scoop that plays the stuff that was on Nedry’s computer along with the park ride screens.
[quoted image]

That's cool! Is this screen similar to widely used TV mods?

#550 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys: how many of you have turned off your left/right T. rex movement?
I feel like it’s unnecessary. Just need up/down

Why?

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There are 690 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 14.

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