(Topic ID: 99255)

Shangri-la Reset Bar Not Working

By pindude80

9 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by WOLF
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#1 9 years ago

Hello all! I'm back again with another problem on my Shangri-La, what's new, it always has a problem!

The reset bar in my picture is not activating at the end of each ball. When one ball drains and a new one is sent to the shooter lane the same "features" are still lit on the playfield.

It has had a problem before with the bar staying in the "down" position while playing, but if I remember correctly that went away on it's own and I didn't do anything to make it function properly.

Can anyone tell me what or where to look for a problem?

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

Shang_reset bar.jpgShang_reset bar.jpg
#2 9 years ago

Looks like it can only be the fuse, the outhole re, the coin re, or motor sw 1C.

#3 9 years ago

So I spent a few hours working on this today. I took all the fuses out and they tested okay. The outhole and coin relay both are functioning and appear to be gapped correctly.

I set my digital multimeter to ohms, hooked it up to the two "tabs" where the wires solder to each leaf of what I think is switch 1C. When I slowly cycled the score motor the DM would show closed and open, but when the score motor cycles on it's own it wouldn't change. Is this normal? I messed around with the gap for a long time, set it super tight and it still wouldn't show open and closed on the DM when the score motor cycled. I will have to say my DM is just a cheapie from Harbor Freight.

Is there anyway I can bypass switch 1c on the score motor to see if the bank arm will activate?

If I get this problem fixed it looks will be playable again after a full year of it collecting dust!!

#4 9 years ago

Uhm, 1 thing I forgot to mention is the coil itself. Does it test good?

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from WOLF:

Uhm, 1 thing I forgot to mention is the coil itself. Does it test good?

That's what I want to test next. How do I test it? Hook my DM up to the two lugs and test for resistance?

#6 9 years ago

You test it with your meter. Use the ohms setting, you should read somewhere between 2-8 ohms, or compare it to a known working solenoid reading (not flipper).

#7 9 years ago

With my DM set to 200 on ohms and connected to the 2 lugs on the coil it read 7.7 and 6.4 when I manually plunged the solenoid. Is there anyway to jump a switch to make this coil work and pinpoint where to look for the problem?

Also is it normal for no reading on the DM when the score motor cycles for a switch- as described above?

#8 9 years ago

Ok, you said you checked all the fuses. Does that include the one mounted on the bottom of the play-field by the relay bank? I think it's a 1 1/2 amp slo-blo. If you raise your play-field, it will be closer to the arch end of play-field.

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from WOLF:

Ok, you said you checked all the fuses. Does that include the one mounted on the bottom of the play-field by the relay bank? I think it's a 1 1/2 amp slo-blo. If you raise your play-field, it will be closer to the arch end of play-field.

That was it, that was it, that was it!!! Wooohoo!!!

I was working on a long-term problem with my Blue Chip this morning and noticed the fuse under the playfield and thought to myself "I need to check that on Shangri-La," well guess what, I forgot all about it; must have too caught up in fixing Blue Chip.

It had a 1.6 amp fuse in it, which matched the decal next to the fuse holder. The closest I had was a 2.5 amp slow-blo so I popped it in, and low and behold it works!

I just cleaned both sides of the glass and raised the rear leg levelers a bit- I'm more used to the speed of DMD games, and am getting ready to enjoy my first game of Shangri-La in a long time!

Thanks to you and everyone who commented in my previous thread on this game.

Let's hope I don't have to post up any more "help" threads on this machine.

Thanks again!!

#10 9 years ago

Glad you got it worked out. Make sure to get the proper fuse in there soon.
What problem do you have with your blue-chip?

#11 9 years ago

Yeah I will be ordering the correct fuse on the next parts order I make.

On Blue Chip I would go to play my first game or two and the outhole kicker would have to keep trying and trying to kick the ball into the shooter lane. When it was doing this the score motor would keep running. I took the outhole coil apart, cleaned the plunger shaft, and replaced the aluminum bushing with a new plastic one- works great now!

#12 9 years ago

Yep, exactly what I had to do with mine. That aluminum sleeve was the problem.

#13 9 years ago

I was kind of surprised to see an aluminum sleeve in there, everything else I have seen was plastic.

#14 9 years ago

I had a few in mine in various paces - pop bumper, flipper, sling. There all replaced now, the ball eject was the last one. I imagine because it gets used the least.

#15 9 years ago

I haven't had to do much work on this one. It's in really nice shape and only show 1600 plays on it so I bet there are still some aluminum sleeves in it.

#16 9 years ago

My machine says it has a ton of plays on it, but all in all is not in bad shape. Just the regular em repair stuff is all I ever had to do.

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