Hi Portraitman2
great - You could solve the problem with help of other pinsiders.
I do +/- like to do some research work (schematics / my pin) - but then realising "within the time I was doing my work: problem has been solved - my stuff is obsolete" --- this realising I do not like. So I write this post - lets use it as "some theory".

HowardR shows in post-3 the wiring to the coil on No-Match-Unit-Step-Up (and the unit has mounted THE BELL for getting ONEs-Points). The switch may be maladjusted - might be dirty / oxidated - sometimes making contact - sometimes NOT making contact. The wires in the circuitry may have broken-off a solder-lug - sometimes staying in place - then a bit of shaking the pin - broken-off end moves away a bit - sometimes connection - sometimes NO connection.

See the first JPG - "My E is the Game-Over-Relay" - from left to right (in the JPG) are switches SW-GO-1, SW-GO-2, SW-GO-3, -4, -5, -6. The first three switches are three-bladed Make-and-Brake-Switches. The schematics shows these switches at schematics-G-19, F-10, A-7. The colors of wires in my Shangri La have faded - hard to go by the colors of the wires.
See the second JPG --- on the Lights-Section one of these Make-and-Brake-Switches on the Game-Over-Relay --- when I cheat on the switch - making permanent connection "all three blades have connection": I see the Number-Match-Lights changing when I play a ball - the Number-Match-Lights are controlled by the Number-Match-Unit AND THE BELL is mounted on the Number-Match-Unit. So I can test the functionality "THE BELL" by making the No-Match-Lights light-up during play - and I see the No-Match-Lights changing - telling me about the functioning of the Unit.

The colors of wires in my Shangri La have faded - hard to go by the colors of the wires - I sneaked-in a stripe of paper into one half of one of the three-bladed-Make-and-Brake-Switches - started a game - played a bit - learning "what is no longer working due to the sneaked-in stripe of paper --- I used the stripe of paper on several halfs on these Make-and-Brake-Switches ---
I learned: IN MY Shangri La the leftmost of the switches on the Game-Over-Relay is the Switch shown in the schematics at A-7 - controlling the lights --- I took an Jumper-Wire and clipped-on at first-blade and-at third-blade (((the middle, second blade always is connected to either first or third blade))) With the Jumper-Wire clipped-on I made the lights to always be lighted --- and I could check the functioning of the No-Match-Unit. Greetings Rolf

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Hi Portraitman2
an add-on to my post-8: My Shangri La has NOT mounted an bell on the No-Match-Unit. The first test I did was "a Test-Light hooked on the coil" - see the JPG - every time the coil has current: Test-Light lights up. I have long wires on the Test-Light - I clipped-on the Test-Light - then (long wires) I had the Test-Light hang on the front of the Backbox / Backglass.

SteveFury shows hes Test-Light here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reading-gottlieb-schematics#post-2634425 . Greetings Rolf

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Hi Portraitman2
I am glad that "my post-8 and post-9" helped on a problem in Your pin. I like that You started a topic on "one problem" --- then started a new topic on "new problem". I would like You to start new topics until You think the problems have been fixed - THEN a new topic "features in Shangri La" and / or "checking / testing Shangri La" (((I would like to talk about the features of the pin --- I also like to talk about looking around in a pin))) - please first: You write about everything You think "not working" - we fix everything - then comes "this and that". Please do not adjust switches on the base "might need adjusting - might run better after adjusting" - please first "we fix what is broken".

Have You seen in the schematics (?): Some Relays are feeded by 110VAC - one switch on the left flipper-button-switch has 110VAC - some switches on relays handle 110VAC - the 5-Cent- / 10-Cent- / 25-Cent-Coin-CHUTE-Switch handle 110VAC ????? Please ALWAYS unplug the main power cord when You just look into the pin - as well when You work and do not need electricity --- ONLY plug-in when You want to play / when You want to do tests and need electricity for tests. THEN wear rubber gloves or use wooden sticks (to manually activate relays / steppers) - NEVER touch bare metal - You may touch 110VAC and 110VAC can kill people.

So, what is the next "fault to be fixed" ? Greetings Rolf