Inspect these switches and if both appear OK, diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires.

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That should be the right relay. The specific switch has a Yellow wire on one terminal and a Brown&Green wire on the other terminal. The manual will have a diagram of the relay and show exactly where the switch is. Do you have the manual or are you willing to get it?

Be specific, how can you tell that?
Does the long blade move the short blade on all (8+1=) 9 switches?
Do you know how to use Alligator clip jumper wires?

Hi Portraitman2
Derby Day, October 1967 http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=667 is as far as I know the first Williams pin with an real manual. Before that time there came a collection of single, loose papers with the pin(s). IPDB sometimes calls it "partial manual" - Shangri La: http://www.ipdb.org/files/2110/Williams_1967_Shangri_La_Partial_Manual.pdf or ipdb uses other words - http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=961 or shows several single pages: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=764 .

When You have the 1000s Score-Drum of Player-2 on Zero --- can You start a ONE-Player-Game ? Then play a ONE-Player-Game ? Do all feature on the playfield work ?
When You have the 1000s Score-Drum of Player-2 on 1000 or 2000 or 6000 or 7000 --- Can You start for a ONE-Player-Game ? Then play a ONE-Player-Game ?
When You have the 1000s Score-Drum of Player-2 on 1000 or 2000 or 6000 or 7000 and You start for a ONE-Player-Game: Does the 1000s Score-Drum of Player-2 do one or 2,3 ... steps - OR does NO STEP AT ALL ?

Shangri La was my first love in the very late 1960ies - by now I own one --- I will try to look-up the position (first / 2nd etc / left / right) in reality in the pin --- the switch "red arrow" in HowardR 's JPG in post-2. Greetings Rolf

Look at the faulty reel, see the Sw that opens at zero. the one in the OP that you flex stoned. trace the Brown/Green wire back from there to the 1 & 2 reset RE, you can use a DMM to do this too.

The SW Howard has marked up is mostlikely the issue. If there is a bundle of wire, if you open it up so you can see, you may see the true wire colours there.

Hi Portraitman2
I go to my Shangri La - I open the Backbox - I look towards the Player(s) - on the right in the Backbox is the 3-4-Reset-Relay mounted , see the first JPG. It is not a good picture but good enough to make some definitions. Towards me, near me - from left to right there are four switches. Away from me (towards the wooden panel) - from left to right there are four switches. So Sw-near-1 is leftmost, towards me. So I have Sw-near-1, Sw-near-2, Sw-near-3, Sw-near-4 --- and Sw-away-1, Sw-away-2, Sw-away-3, Sw-away-4.

See the second JPG - it is the 1-2-Reset-Relay (mounted on the left side in the Backbox). I unscrewed the relay and I let it hang on the wires. Also I have Sw-near-1, Sw-near-2, Sw-near-3, Sw-near-4 --- and Sw-away-1, Sw-away-2, Sw-away-3, Sw-away-4. See the stripe of paper - I have put the stripe of paper in-between the contact-points / blades in SW-near-1. Mechanically the armature and the nylon-ladder and the blades can move - BUT Sw-near-1 cannot close electrically (due to the sneaked-in stripe of paper. I have points on all the Score-Drums of Player-1 and I have points on all the Score-Drums of Player-2.
I start a new game --- due to the sneaked-in stripe of paper in Sw-near-1: Player-1-Score-Drum-1000s does NOT reset.
I sneak-in the stripe of paper in Sw-near-2 ... : Player-1-Score-Drum-10s does NOT reset.
I sneak-in the stripe of paper in Sw-near-3 ... : Player-1-Score-Drum-1s does NOT reset.
I sneak-in the stripe of paper in Sw-near-4 ... : Player-2-Score-Drum-1s does NOT reset.
I sneak-in the stripe of paper in Sw-away-1 ... : Player-2-Score-Drum-1000s does NOT reset.
I sneak-in the stripe of paper in Sw-away-2 ... : Player-2-Score-Drum-100s does NOT reset.
I sneak-in the stripe of paper in Sw-away-3 ... : Player-1-Score-Drum-100s does NOT reset.
I sneak-in the stripe of paper in Sw-away-4 ... : Player-2-Score-Drum-10s does NOT reset.

Maybe the wiring in Your Shangri La is the same --- Player-2-Score-Drum-1000s is resetted by Sw-away-1 --- maybe, most likely --- (maybe not ?)

Ask a friend to help --- these sneaked-in stripes of papers have the tendency to fall out.
Please - when You work on the pin: HAVE the main power cord unplugged (Safety Reasons).

Play a TWO-Player-Game --- have the Score-Drums to about 1121 and 1121 - pin comes to Game-Over. UNPLUG the main power cord - Sneak-in a stripe of paper in-between the blades on Sw-near-1 --- plug-in and start a new game --- the Player-1-Score-Drum-1000s does NOT reset - question: Is this true ? - also in Your pin ?
At the time one person plugs-in the main power cord and starts for a new game: The other person holds the sneaked-in stripe of paper in place.
Check all the 8 switches on the 1-2-Reset-Relay - THEN have a good look at the Switch causing the Player-2-Score-Drum-1000s not to reset --- closing when the relay actuates ? - contact-points clean ? wires soldered-on ? --- ALSO check the switches (same procedure) on Player-2-Score-Drum-1000s.
Greetings Rolf
0Shangri-La-1-2-Reset-Relay (resized).jpg0Shangri-La-3-4-Reset-Relay (resized).jpg

What happens if you briefly connect the two terminals on that switch? (Sorry, Rolf, with the power on)

Hi Howard
Yes - You mention +/- "to hold the tip of a screwdriver to the switch-in-question - the tip of the screwdriver touches the sides of the two blades of this switch - touches ONLY these two blades".

Hi Portraitman2
have the Score-Drums to about 1121 and 1121 - pin comes to Game-Over - THEN try HowardR 's trick on an "good, working" switch --- a Score-Drum will step - take away the screwdriver.
From this test (with an good switch) we learn: HowardR 's test WORKS on a good switch.
You tried it on the bad switch - nothing happens - THIS TELLS us: Connecting wire(s) and/or Zero-Pos-Switch on the Score-Drum is "NO GOOD".

(((I praise myself to be suspicious --- grumble - the wiring in Your pin and in my pin are different - different switches on 1-2-Reset-Relay are used for different Score-Drums))) Greetings Rolf

What happens if you jumper the Open-At-Index switch in my post #2 above and do that test again?

Hi Portraitman2, HowardR +
This post is not "further test(s) to do" --- I will look into the topic again in about nine hours from now. No need to hurry - Portraitman2, You did not write about - so I ask: When You have the 1000s Score-Drum of Player-2 manually set to Zero - then You start a ONE-Player game - CAN YOU PLAY a ONE-Player game through all the balls - (finally) reaching "Game-Over" ?

To "learn about testing an EM-Pin" - please have the Score-Drums to about 1121 and 1121 - pin comes to Game-Over and You do not unplug the main power cord - THEN try HowardR 's trick with the screwdriver on an "good, working" switch on the 1-2-Reset-Relay --- a Score-Drum will step - take away the screwdriver and the stepping of the Score-Drum will stop.
O.K. - when You hold the tip of a screwdriver onto an GOOD Switch on the 1-2-Reset-Relay - question: In Your pin - does a Score-Drum step ? Greetings Rolf

Hi Portraitman2
please answer the asked questions - the answer(s) is/are input for "thinking about 'next test' ".
Question - when You have the 1000s Score-Drum of Player-2 manually set to 1000 or 2000 points - then You start a game: All the other Score-Drums do reset, the 1000s Score-Drum of Player-2 does not step - AND the Score-Motor runs and runs and runs, never stops ?

At the moment I assume Your answer is "Yes - thats the way the pin reacts".
I like the Cabaret - http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=415 --- look in the manual at page-15 (ori-13) - a Score-Drum. On the bottom of the page are drawn three switches --- the three switches are drawn at three different points along the time-axis. The bottom-most of the three is the 9th-position-switch needed when we are playing a ball. The Top-Switch and the Middle-Switch are the so-called Zero-Position-Switch(es). One Zero-Position-Switch opens to stop getting current to reach the Coil on the Drum - the other Zero-Position-Switch opening is to "inform the Brain of the Pin": "Hey Brain - I am resetted". When ALL 16 Score-Drums say "Hey Brain - I am resetted": The Brain then says "O.K., I can proceed in the Start-up Sequence".

Do one test "stripe of paper sneaked-in in-between the blades on 'TOP-Switch' " on Player-2-1000s-Score-Drum, have points on the Drum --- start a game --- does the motor runs and runs - never stops ?
Do another test "stripe of paper sneaked-in in-between the blades on 'MIDDLE-Switch' " on Player-2-1000s-Score-Drum, have points on the Drum --- start a game --- does the motor runs and runs - never stops ?
The result must be: In one of the tests the motor will run forever --- in the other test the motor will stop - so You can say: THIS Switch is for "informing the Brain of the Pin" - and so the OTHER Switch is for "to stop getting current to the Coil on the Score-Drum" --- question: WHAT color do the wires have on the Switch "to stop getting current to the Coil on the Score-Drum" ? Greetings Rolf

Hi Portraitman2
Yes - the 1000-Point-Score-Drums of all 4 players do only have two switches (open when drum is in zero-position) - they do not have the third switch - third switch is the "Pos-9-Switch" to make another Drum to also step - example ONEs-Score-Drum-pos-9-switch - 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 next step must also step the 10s-Score-Drum. The Shangri La has no 10'000s Score-Drums - no need to mount an 9th-pos-switch on the 1000s-score-drums.

You have (post-18) located the "switch to stop the 'Score-Motor to run' " --- I was talking about this switch as "Hey brain of the pin - I am resetted switch". THE OTHER switch there on the 1000s-Score-Drum-of-Player-2 is of interest --- HowardR 's snippet in post-2: text at the switch is "open @ index" --- a short wire-color-W-O-white-orange runs from switch to coil on the drum --- THE OTHER WIRE on the switch - thrill / excitement / suspense: Must have color-BR-G-brown-green - MUST HAVE same color as the "wire on SW-near-2" --- question: SAME color (BR-G) on "Score-Drum-Switch - Sw-near-2 (switch) ? Greetings Rolf

Hi Portraitman2
this post is not about troubleshooting --- a bit of theory: If Your pin would be an "Cabaret": Really simple - look at the manual https://www.ipdb.org/files/415/Williams_1968_Cabaret_Instruction_Manual_no_schematics.pdf on page-27 (ori-25) --- 1-2-Reset-Relay, Switch-2C and the references / text nearby ---
and we had to do a lot of research / detective work to do on Shangri La.

I live in Switzerland, south of Germany --- by now it is 23:10 (hour) - time to go to sleep - till tomorrow, greetings Rolf

Hi Portraitman2
we now are at HowardR 's post-2 , JPG. You know how to hold the tip of an screwdriver onto two blades so the switch is closed.
Usually we use a short Jumper-Wire "clipped on at the solderlugs on the blades" --- here on this problem: The Jumper-Wire clipped-on makes the Zero-Pos-Switch on the Score-Drum "always closed" --- then comes the screwdriver-test on the SW-near-2.

You may ask a friend - he puts the tip of a screwdriver onto the Zero-Pos-Switch on the Drum --- then You use another screwdriver on the Sw-near-2.

Please check: Do these switches truely close ? contact-points on the blades oxidated ? wires soldered-on ? Greetings Rolf

Hi Portraitman2
thanks for post-23 and the picture / JPG. Please accept when I would like to put off for a while the "strange thing happened" - we can come to talk about it, later. Good - in Your JPG I see You have an Jumper-Wire with Gator-Clips. These (Yours) Gator-Clips have no insulation - ALWAYS grab the insulated wire - NEVER hold the metal of the Gator-Clip. You either wear always rubber gloves and You are allowed to (gloves) touch the metal of the Gator-Clip --- or You UNPLUG the main power cord - then with hand-no-rubber-gloves-on You can clip-on the Gator-Clip where You want to clip-on.

See JPG-AA - the schematics - it is "drawn abstract - beautyful" - true for electrons - but the wiring in the pin is other --- in the JPG-AA we see wire-Yellow (upper left corner) to the right and then downwards. SHORT stubs fork-off from wire-yellow - short stubs to switch(es).
In reality in the pin there is NEVER a long wire running and here and there some "fork-off(s)" - never. The reality in the pin it is like my drawing "JPG-BB" --- short wires of any color - maybe even an blank wire - hop - hop - hop --- connecting blades to "main-wire-in-the-pin-wire-of-color-yellow".

Testing the Player-2-1000s-Coil-on-the-Score-Drum - see JPG-CC. UNPLUG the main (110VAC) power cord - clip-on the Jumper-Wire at "Coil on Score-Drum - side wire-WH-O-white-orange is soldered-on". The other end of the Jumper-Wire (1 or 2 or 3 foot / feet long) let hang free - NOT touching metal stuff. Plug-in, press the left flipper-button. Hold the insulation - tip-on the Gator-Clip on an GOOD Switch / blade on the 1-2-Reset-Relay --- see in JPG-CC "my blue A B" - tip-on at a blade - tip-on at the other blade (good switch) --- the Player-2-1000s-Coil-on-Score-Drum must fire - does it ? Do You recognize "blade-with-wire-yellow-soldered-on" - thats the blade that makes the Score-Drum fire ? Write about.

See "my rosa/pink 'A' and 'B' - big question - tipping-on at "my rosa/pink 'A'" - Does the Score-Drum fires ? Greetings Rolf

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If you'd like to talk on the phone, PM me your phone number

Hi Portraitman2
I take Your writing "post-25". A problem I always have: Shall I write in short about "ONE test to do" or shall I write +/- "Do AAA - when result is PPP then do BBB - when result (of AAA) is QQQ then do RRR - consider when it is almost PPP - but actually PP1 then the CCC may help on discussing SSS /and or "TTT plus UUU".
This is a problem I always have --- I work on a snippet of the schematics --- it is easyer to draw the "QQQ, PPP, PP1, RRR, SSS, TTT, AAA, BBB, CCC" but only write about one or maybe two of the many tests.

Great - You found and fixed the fault "resetting 1000s-Score-Drum of player-2". Lets look at the last JPG in post-24. Lets say "little gremlins visited Portraitman2 last night and they made the pin faulty --- they put an layer of insulating oxyd(ation) on one contact-point on "switch open @ index / at pink-C / pink-D" --- Portraitman2 does not know about the gremlins - he starts a new game and realizes fault "resetting 1000s-Score-Drum of player-2". In our mind (((or You can do it in reality))) we sneak-in a stripe of paper into this switch - switch faulty does not close electrically - and we do not know where the fault is:

(Last JPG in post-24) - So I suggest "clip-on 'blue Jumper-Wire' at the coil" - tip-on (pin has lights lit) at "blue A" - then start a game - hold-on to "blue B" --- learn about "1000s-Score-Drum of player-2 fires when we connect to 'working places' ". Then tip-on at "pink-A" - the Score-Drum fires so we LEARNED: Wire-Yellow to switch IS GOOD. You then hold-on to "pink-B" and start a game - the Score-Drum fires so we LEARNED: Wire-Yellow to switch IS GOOD AND the switch (on the 1-2-Reset-Relay) is good.
You then hold-on to "pink-C" and start a game - the Score-Drum fires so we LEARNED: Wire-Yellow to switch on 1-2-Reset-Relay IS GOOD AND the switch (on 1-2-Reset-Relay) is good AND the connecting wire to "pink-C" is good.
You then hold-on to "pink-D" and start a game - no firing of the Score-Drum --- conclusion: The switch "pink-C, pink-D" is faulty - You must investigate exactly there - look at the switch - gapping - maybe cleaning.

O.K. --- little gremlins visited Portraitman2 --- this time they were rude on the connecting wire "pink-B to pink-C" - they bent this wire-BR-G at a place back and forth and back and forth - many times till the iron wire inside the fabric-insulation brakes - metal wire is broken - but the fabric still is good. Portraitman2 does not know about the gremlins - he starts a new game and realizes fault "resetting 1000s-Score-Drum of player-2" --- and now, can You write the story to this fault ?

The tecnique "using a Jumper-Wire" is: FIRST long distance jumpering so we can make the coil fire. Then shorter and shorter distances jumpering means: More and more of the original wires in the pin are part of our circuitry in an test --- testing and narrowing on the problem --- we finally get to "this here makes the coil to fire" --- but this "does not make the coil to fire" --- conclusion: Investigate at this point. Greetings Rolf