Shangri-La
Williams, 1967This isn’t necessarily a restoration thread although I’m restoring some of this machine. But more of a depository for before and after pics and for me to throw some questions out around bringing my first EM (with flippers)up to par.
I got a partially working Shangri-La for a fare price in April but it needs quite a bit of work.
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The playfield has quite a bit of wear and some scratches. And the left side of plastics are a mess. Been hunting for them pretty aggressively.
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92B7A3F9-68CE-4556-BE03-AC8E2FBFC2FD (resized).jpeg05ABBF3D-A5C8-403E-A146-DD6B138F4B95 (resized).jpegThe playfield cleaned up really nice minus the flipper area and the heavy scratches. I actually like the beat up look of it. Even though I’d rather paint it and clear it to look like new, this antique feel is growing on me.
Some of these pics just show the difference after cleaning because I did it in portions.
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Made new instruction cards and a new manufacturers label. I came across an apron decal in Allentown so I sanded down the apron and painted it. Looks pretty sweet.
Also painted the under side of the arch to help reflect the lights.
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Added over 4 years ago: Wish I could go back in time and tell myself to not spray the back with clear.
Spoiler: I screwed up this back glass
Quoted from AlexF:Looks real nice. I wonder if the original cabinet paint is hiding under the white?
I’m torn on if I should strip the paint to see or just repaint it. Ive been making stencils for another project so that’s been influencing me to go the new paint route with this one.
I think the big thing I’m gonna tackle (for me anyway) is rewiring a coin door. Thanks to Rolf I have this awesome diagram to help me out!
68559150-2335-40CF-9A7C-0A8B6456FDD1 (resized).jpeg68A3DC41-0D28-4FF4-834F-C6825A374FD6 (resized).jpegC97B9D91-D66A-4BD1-A9E0-0A61996F9366 (resized).jpeg83180507-236B-4643-8FF3-1F30277350A0 (resized).jpegE071E94A-564D-4023-A7FD-B83EF3484C5C (resized).jpegrolf_martin_062 I’m using your instructions to rewire my door. However I’m thinking there are some differences. I’m not sure our switches are the same or if mine are fully intact. The one switch on the lock side has 2 pads for soldering and the one on the hinge side has 3 pads. Also I notice that I have coil on mine that pulls a bar to allow coins to pass through the mechs. Any thoughts?
45ADF43E-4DFD-407A-A49E-37850BD43953 (resized).jpeg8DF6939B-E21A-41D1-9AA2-99D431F07279 (resized).jpegHi mrm_4
I have read Your post-18 --- first (to work on) I pick Your (post-18) "coil that pulls a bar to allow coins to pass" --- this goodie looks like a relay - but per definition what a relay*** is: This goodie is not a relay, so it is called "Coin Lockout Coil". For a schematics "Shangri La" I do only have the ipdb-schematics --- I did search the whole schematics - I do NOT find drawn the "Coin Lockout Coil" in the ipdb-schematics. Right now I will work on a solution "something like Jolly Roger solution" - but I need some time to do the (JPG) drawing. In this time You, please search Your schematics for a drawing of "Coin Lockout Coil" (and write about Your findings).
relay***: A relay is a goodie that has at least one switch mounted to switch-on or switch-off a circuitry for electricity to flow. We know many relays having many switches --- the "Gate-Goodie" IS a relay (it has one switch to feed itself Self-Hold-Current) - so it is the Gate-RELAY.
The Coin-Lockout-Coil has NO switch - therefore it is not a relay - it is (just) a coil. (((And actually I would like to have it called "STOP-Coin-Lockout Coil"))). Greetings Rolf
P.S.:My Shangri La has NOT mounted an Coin-Lockout-Coil.
Outside of the coin lock out issue everything else works! I dropped it in to test and all is operational. Just need to find a Jones plug.
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Thanks for your help Rolf!
Hi mrm_4
the following writing is written not knowing post-20 and post-21.
It will be by tomorrow when I will write again --- (a little joke) maybe You do not find the drawing of Coin-Lockout-Coil in Your schematics and You say "want to have all original so I (You) do not wire the coin lockout coil - I (You) maybe take away the coil".
(((Everything else we may do is not original - may need some newly added switches))).
It is Saturday-Evening - I do not really feel like working on pins - till tomorrow, greetings Rolf
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:Hi mrm_4
the following writing is written not knowing post-20 and post-21.
It will be by tomorrow when I will write again --- (a little joke) maybe You do not find the drawing of Coin-Lockout-Coil in Your schematics and You say "want to have all original so I (You) do not wire the coin lockout coil - I (You) maybe take away the coil".
(((Everything else we may do is not original - may need some newly added switches))).
It is Saturday-Evening - I do not really feel like working on pins - till tomorrow, greetings Rolf
No problem Rolf enjoy your weekend!!!
Thanks
Hi mrm_4
this post is about the Coin-Lockout-Coil, toggling-on and -off the pin and Safety, Attention, Danger (Shangri-La and other old 2-inch flipperbat pins).
See the first JPG - we unplug the main power cord - then plug-in. DANGER - along "my drawn red" lines / wires there is 110VAC-Power ready to flow ! We better do not touch a solder-lug there as we may make a connection through our body to ground / earth - and we may get killed.
My "red lines" all end at a open switch - internal in the pin current does not flow, the pin looks like toggled-off. At my "red AA" the electrons (110VAC-Power) are waiting for a switch to close so the electrons can flow to the transformer to produce 6VAC and 24VAC. See at my BB: The switches on the Coin-Slots handle 110VAC, when a switch closes: One of the "my CC" relays pulls-in. Danger - how many people open the Coin-Door on a Shangri La (or other old pins) and fumble on the Coin-Switches to coin-up or start a game --- do they know that they are touching line-Current ?
O.K. - throwing-in a coin makes one of the "my BB" switches to close - one of "my CC" relays fires - this closes one of "my AA" switches - the 110VAC-electrons can pass , reach the transformer, 24VAC and 6VAC is produced - the pin lights-up (my DD). Also the Lock-Relay (my EE) pulls-in, establishes Self-Hold-Current, stay pulling --- see "my red * at AA" - this closed switch on the Lock-Relay feeds 110VAC-Current to the transformer - forever. Somewhat "by the way" the Game-Over-Relay (my FF) is made to trip.
Instead of throwing-in a coin into a "just plugged-in but looking toggled-off" Shangri La we can press the left flipper-button - the switch at AA closes - DD, EE and FF happens - the switch "**" on the Game-Over-Relay does close, stays closed - we then can press the Replay- / Start-Button (my GG) to start a new game.
mrm_4 see, the Shangri La does not need a Coin-Lockout-Coil - the Shangri La just must be plugged-in - we then can throw-in a coin or press the left flipper-button, then press the Credit-Button and we are ready to play.
We play and play - then say: Enough played --- hmm, there is no Main Power Switch so we unplug the main power cord.
There is also a funny feature (instead of unplugging the main power cord) --- the so-called "Kickoff-Switch, my red ***". See the second JPG - there at "my black B" we see this Kickoff-Switch --- at "my black C" I have taken away the cover and the switch - we see a bolt, the bolt, normally resting down on the plywood, underside of the cabinet. When we bang upwards with a fist exactly at this place: The bolt jumps up, opens the Kickoff-Switch - the pulling Lock-Relay let go and the transformer looses connection - the pin looks like toggled-off - it is toggled-off - only "along my red lines in the first JPG": 110VAC is at hand, ready to flow.
The Coin-Lockout-Coil not only has to do with "pin toggled-off or -on" - also "when maximum on the Replay-Counter is reached, cannot coin-up any higher" - also "when the Score-Motor is busy - turning for another feature --- see the upper part of the third JPG (Jolly Roger). We could try to implement "Jolly Roger logic" into "Shangri La logic" - but my advice is "lets have the Shangri La "as is, original" - no Coin-Lockout-Coil mounted - or an existing coil un-connected, we use commom sense when throwing-in coins. Greetings Rolf
0Shangri-La-Work-31 (resized).jpgSh-La-Bot-Pan-3 -Work1 (resized).JPG0Shangri-La-Work-32 (resized).jpgOk the single template didn’t work because the shapes get wider and shorter from back to front. So I had to grid out and draw each shape to make it true to the original design
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I’m loving Ace Hardwares brand of paint I wish they offered more colors.
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Thanks!
As far as I can tell the spatter is just on the base coat. The colors don’t get it. I may be wrong but from what I’ve seen it doesn’t.
Finished my least favorite part.... spray painting.
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Quoted from Atari_Daze:Looking just fine, keep it up!
Quoted from Xenon75:Yeah that is looking really good!
Thanks guys!
I see you painted the apron, where did you find the artwork for the apron? Is it a sticker or did you paint it on somehow?
Quoted from pinball419:I see you painted the apron, where did you find the artwork for the apron? Is it a sticker or did you paint it on somehow?
Found the sticker at Allentown, cant remember the guys name but he had one for like $5. Perfect timing i guess
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Houston, TX
Aarau