this post is about the Coin-Lockout-Coil, toggling-on and -off the pin and Safety, Attention, Danger (Shangri-La and other old 2-inch flipperbat pins).
See the first JPG - we unplug the main power cord - then plug-in. DANGER - along "my drawn red" lines / wires there is 110VAC-Power ready to flow ! We better do not touch a solder-lug there as we may make a connection through our body to ground / earth - and we may get killed.
My "red lines" all end at a open switch - internal in the pin current does not flow, the pin looks like toggled-off. At my "red AA" the electrons (110VAC-Power) are waiting for a switch to close so the electrons can flow to the transformer to produce 6VAC and 24VAC. See at my BB: The switches on the Coin-Slots handle 110VAC, when a switch closes: One of the "my CC" relays pulls-in. Danger - how many people open the Coin-Door on a Shangri La (or other old pins) and fumble on the Coin-Switches to coin-up or start a game --- do they know that they are touching line-Current ?
O.K. - throwing-in a coin makes one of the "my BB" switches to close - one of "my CC" relays fires - this closes one of "my AA" switches - the 110VAC-electrons can pass , reach the transformer, 24VAC and 6VAC is produced - the pin lights-up (my DD). Also the Lock-Relay (my EE) pulls-in, establishes Self-Hold-Current, stay pulling --- see "my red * at AA" - this closed switch on the Lock-Relay feeds 110VAC-Current to the transformer - forever. Somewhat "by the way" the Game-Over-Relay (my FF) is made to trip.
Instead of throwing-in a coin into a "just plugged-in but looking toggled-off" Shangri La we can press the left flipper-button - the switch at AA closes - DD, EE and FF happens - the switch "**" on the Game-Over-Relay does close, stays closed - we then can press the Replay- / Start-Button (my GG) to start a new game.
mrm_4 see, the Shangri La does not need a Coin-Lockout-Coil - the Shangri La just must be plugged-in - we then can throw-in a coin or press the left flipper-button, then press the Credit-Button and we are ready to play.
We play and play - then say: Enough played --- hmm, there is no Main Power Switch so we unplug the main power cord.
There is also a funny feature (instead of unplugging the main power cord) --- the so-called "Kickoff-Switch, my red ***". See the second JPG - there at "my black B" we see this Kickoff-Switch --- at "my black C" I have taken away the cover and the switch - we see a bolt, the bolt, normally resting down on the plywood, underside of the cabinet. When we bang upwards with a fist exactly at this place: The bolt jumps up, opens the Kickoff-Switch - the pulling Lock-Relay let go and the transformer looses connection - the pin looks like toggled-off - it is toggled-off - only "along my red lines in the first JPG": 110VAC is at hand, ready to flow.
The Coin-Lockout-Coil not only has to do with "pin toggled-off or -on" - also "when maximum on the Replay-Counter is reached, cannot coin-up any higher" - also "when the Score-Motor is busy - turning for another feature --- see the upper part of the third JPG (Jolly Roger). We could try to implement "Jolly Roger logic" into "Shangri La logic" - but my advice is "lets have the Shangri La "as is, original" - no Coin-Lockout-Coil mounted - or an existing coil un-connected, we use commom sense when throwing-in coins. Greetings Rolf0Shangri-La-Work-31 (resized).jpgSh-La-Bot-Pan-3 -Work1 (resized).JPG0Shangri-La-Work-32 (resized).jpg