(Topic ID: 133130)

Shadow Universal Power Interface Fuse

By nicoga3000

8 years ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by jonesjb
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FC54CEBB-1826-4FB8-BD84-2E97CA61C303 (resized).jpeg
mainfuse_USA.jpg
#1 8 years ago

I was reseating a bunch of connectors and cables on my Shadow after doing an air blow of the boards and backbox the other night. I never turned the game on after doing this.

Last night, I went to power the game on, and the DMD went fuzzy and the the fuse popped in the Universal Power Interface up in the front of the machine. I'm 99% sure the issue is that I didn't seat the ribbon cable on P1 correctly (on the sound board assembly). My understanding is that if this isn't exactly perfect, things will poop out. So I'm going to reseat that today.

However, I don't quite know what fuse to use to replace the Power Interface fuse. I can't find anything online about it. It looks like an 8A 250V, but I don't know if it's SB or FB. Is anyone able to help let me know exactly what fuse to use before I pop in the wrong one?

E: Using a FB and it works, but want to make sure that's the one to use still!

#2 8 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

E: Using a FB and it works, but want to make sure that's the one to use still!

Yes, FB is the correct one

mainfuse USA.jpgmainfuse USA.jpg

6 years later
#3 2 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

Yes, FB is the correct one
[quoted image]

I think I encountered this exact problem today (on a Shadow even), the DMD went odd, I reseated. Then the Machine won't turn on. Fuse 112 looked popped. I replaced, but it isn't working. My guess may be that I have to replace the one in the power interface. I can't figure out how to do this, does it twist out? or do I have to take the power interface apart?

Thanks!

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I can't figure out how to do this, does it twist out?

Yes, it does twist out. (if original)
Pull main cord from the wall or be 100% sure the main switch is OFF. Then grab the cap of the fuse holder, push and twist 90 degrees to the left.

When the main fuse is OK but machine is still dead, it can be the thermistor inside the powerbox having failed.

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

Yes, it does twist out. (if original)
Pull main cord from the wall or be 100% sure the main switch is OFF. Then grab the cap of the fuse holder, push and twist 90 degrees to the left.
When the main fuse is OK but machine is still dead, it can be the thermistor inside the powerbox having failed.

Thanks! I was able to replace the fuse, then turn on for a second before the fuse blew again. The mystery continues.

#6 2 years ago

Try again but with J102 unplugged from the powerdriver.
Maybe the bridge rectifier is shorted ("F112 popped") or ribbon cable not proper seated ("the DMD went odd")

#7 2 years ago

Will do. One other possible variable (which I think I should test)... I have a Pinstadium, it's very possible that I crimped it when I had the playfield up at the time (it's also been a bit flaky on the right side recently). Could/would this cause the main power fuse to short (It is plugged in there after all).

#8 2 years ago

Technically yes, but a full short on the 110Vac is mostly very obvious (burn marks / sound / smell )

2 months later
#9 2 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

Try again but with J102 unplugged from the powerdriver.
Maybe the bridge rectifier is shorted ("F112 popped") or ribbon cable not proper seated ("the DMD went odd")

zaza thanks for trying to help (I've been traveling overseas in Finland for the past month so postponed working on this until I was back in the states.

So I have some progress, but no fix yet. Normally the pin will immediately blow the main fuse, BUT when trying what you suggested (unplugging J102), the pin turns on, lights up (albeit with the jumbled DMD). The main universal fuse doesn't blow either. What would this imply? And what would you recommend for the next step?

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

What would this imply?

so it seems that when the 50V is unplugged, the main fuse doesn't blow.
Together with the jumbled display, could imply that something with the data lines goes wrong.
Possible causes : CPU-board, Fliptronic board, ribbon cable, headers

Disconnect the 50V coils and re-connect them one by one. See if this gives an indication where this comes from

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

so it seems that when the 50V is unplugged, the main fuse doesn't blow.
Together with the jumbled display, could imply that something with the data lines goes wrong.
Possible causes : CPU-board, Fliptronic board, ribbon cable, headers
Disconnect the 50V coils and re-connect them one by one. See if this gives an indication where this comes from

Thanks, would this mean I’d disconnect the 50V coils, then reconnect J102, then turn the pin back on. See if the fuse blows. Then slowly reconnect and see when the fuse blows to identify the culprit?

I’d so, I’ll just need to identify which wires are 50V then give it a go.

#12 2 years ago

One other thing which may help narrow down…. Before the attached J102 would blow whenever I’d turn on, I just had the jumbled display (All green on my color DMD and jumbled), at that point I reseated the two ribbon cables which attached to the Dot Matrix controller board. When that happened, turning the pin back on would blow fuse 112 AND the main fuse in the power interface.

FC54CEBB-1826-4FB8-BD84-2E97CA61C303 (resized).jpegFC54CEBB-1826-4FB8-BD84-2E97CA61C303 (resized).jpeg
#13 2 years ago

I'm at a bit of a loss, I replaced the ribbons, and now my Shadow is in an even worse state. The fuse still blows when J102 is connected, but when it's disconnected, the pin turns on an (but no lights), the DMD turns on, but is frozen, and the pin makes a beep every 5 seconds or so. I'm guessing I need to replace a board, but how would I figure out which one?

4 weeks later
#14 2 years ago

Reporting back for anyone who may have a similar issue. So here's what happened (and how it was fixed):

-The original problem was a faulty DMD board, sending glitched signals to the DMD (The DMD was fine as per the settings mode which worked fine when activated).
-I didn't know this and reseated the cables. One cable I indeed missed the row incorrectly (the left most one to the Fliptronic board). This ended up frying the bridge rectifier.
-Re-soldering the bridge rectifier fixed it!

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