(Topic ID: 47708)

Shadow shop Log

By RudeDogg1

11 years ago


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  • 52 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by RudeDogg1
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 52 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 11 years ago

The Shadow Shop Log

This is gonna be a long one I just add to it as I go.

Just fixed the sanctum wall switch it just needed straightening.

Still getting a switch error on the battle field drop down switch all the optos on the battlefield are registering and all the targets.

A few faults ill try sorting befor i strip it down:

The battlefield switch error.
Mini kicker is dead.
burnt J120.
None of the rings light.
colum 8 only 2 lights light.
On GI test the lower pf doesnt light.

#2 11 years ago

I desoldered cleaned and rechecked now I assume it may be the cable join someone has done so thats my next continuity to check.

I could do with replacing a couple parts of the mini kicker if anyone knows the part numbers (I cant find them and they arnt in the manual that i can see)

the metal bracket the shaft with the square end goes through this one looks doctored as if not the original.

the spring this one has 2 very weak ones neither of which are the right ones I think.

solenoid re soldered and redid the join (better), got continuity but no life in it still grr. Any ideas? where should I be looking?

tested the fuses 2 dead which are for gi's so hopefully once ive fixed the burnt connector that will be the light prob sorted fingers crossed.

Found the second switch error its switch 55 micro switch for the single yellow drop target. it seems to work intermitently works when i press it but on it but only sometimes when the target drops. Do you think this is a new switch and diode jobbie?

#3 11 years ago

The kicker could be a transitor on the driverboard but hopefully not

#5 11 years ago

The manual... solenoid matrix I think. Then you should test the transistor. I you dont know
how to, google it its pretty simple.

#6 11 years ago

The Shadow Shop Log

Grr so close yet so far! I got the coil to fire when grounded so the coil def works. There's voltage at the lugs and every pin on both connectors. That's where I am at the mo I found a connector undone which I was hoping would of fixed it but it didn't ha ha (it goes to the knocker).

On the plus side I've done this today..... And it works
image.jpgimage.jpg
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Also replaced a 2 pin under pf connector it looked abit melted.

It's fixed most the light probs.

Known faults that are left:

Still the mini kicker coil (as above),
Single yellow drop down switch (have a new one),
Sanctum drop down target switch (have a replacement).
No ring or big red flashed lights ( not sure where to start with that).
Knocker don't think it works and doesn't show up on tests

#7 11 years ago

The ring is most likely the bulb and the flashers might be a fuse

#8 11 years ago

all fuses are ok i dont think its a bulb cuz all 4 rings are out aswell as the 3 red flashers that are on the wireforms with the rings. I have continuity from the power connectors to the rings bulbs (not sure what connectors are used for the big flashers)

#9 11 years ago

I beleive its the little pcb under the pf that the rings join to thats the culprit its been hacked lots of bad joints I tried reflowing it but didnt do anything other than knock out the mini kicker opto that was the only thing working on it. Now the search is on for a new one grrr!

#10 11 years ago

Is there such a thing as a clear sanctum repair with just the writing and outline on?

#11 11 years ago

I have the same problem with the yellow drop target and the kicker makes a weird noise some time. The switch dosen't register. Let me know wich model and NO you used on yours. I'm planning on doing a restoration of my shadow in the coming months so I will fellow your thread closely.

#12 11 years ago

If you look in the manual it tells u the model number of the switch and diode

#13 11 years ago
Quoted from RudeDogg1:

all fuses are ok i dont think its a bulb cuz all 4 rings are out aswell as the 3 red flashers that are on the wireforms with the rings. I have continuity from the power connectors to the rings bulbs (not sure what connectors are used for the big flashers)

I thought it couldn't be the bulbs on my rings burnt out because they all were burnt out but it in fact was just the bulbs. They have replacements at pinballlife

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=39

#14 11 years ago

Cheers I'm hoping that's all it is cuz the coil probs is already stressing me out lol

#15 11 years ago
Quoted from RudeDogg1:

Cheers I'm hoping that's all it is cuz the coil probs is already stressing me out lol

I hear ya. You'll get it fixed and it will be all worth it. Did you check the solenoid driver transistor for that coil?

#16 11 years ago

Yup tried grounding it but it didn't fire but it fires if I ground the coil lug

#17 11 years ago

I found a 2 pin connector for an opto it has 2 wires soldered into one connector can i replace this with a molex and put the 2 into on crimp?

#18 10 years ago

Been quite busy this w/e regrained all the ball guides didn't get as anal as some do.
Stripped and cleaned the left and right phurba, popper, mini drop down, ball eject, sanctum wall (awaiting a new wall target from andy) coils and assemblies new coil sleeves and replaced the 2 dodgy switches. Also did a wire repair to one of the optos on the magnet it had worn thru to the wire.

Well now I'm stuck Andy the legend has tested my powerboard and there are no probs. that was my last glimmer of hope :0(. Back to the drawing board

image.jpgimage.jpg

#19 10 years ago
Quoted from RudeDogg1:

If you look in the manual it tells u the model number of the switch and diode

I'LL look into it.

#20 10 years ago

switch 5647-12693-31
diode 1N4004 1.0A 5070-09054-00

#21 10 years ago

Thanks RudeDogg!

#22 10 years ago

no probs

A little update just finished servicing and rebuilding all the coil assemblies and thought id take a quick look at the battle field before I pack up for the night. and thought id trace the wires from the mini kicker back to the battle field connector. About 5 inches down from the join I redid there is a break in the brown cable burried in the small loom. So hopefully that's it sorted, fingers crossed

#23 10 years ago

Been busy last couple days finished rebuilding all coils and mini pf. Hopefully fixed my mini kicker. Made new coil wrappers because mine when abit shitty when cleaned the brown ones went white.

// Error: Image 97358 not found //

Replaced one of the slingshot plungers it was abit worn and the link had a lot of play.

image.jpgimage.jpg

Gave the inside of the cab a quick spray because it had a couple scrapes because one of them tube tubular nuts that hold the pf brackets hasn't been attached all the time it's been here. Replaced the leg bolt plates half of them were stripped and all had nuts welded on (think one of its owners owned a welder I've found a few welded parts). Also replaced the 2 wood strips from the back they were all chewed. Just need to find some of them plastic discs to put on them if anyone knows where to get em.
I noticed something odd I think at some stage someone has attempted a re decal of the back box. The battered side the decal is thin like on the cab and poorly touched up. The good side is really thick as if it has the backing on still but hasn't.

image.jpgimage.jpg
Battered side

image.jpgimage.jpg
Better side (thick)

Started on the pf given it a foam and a novus 2. Under all the filth she's in good nick got a lovely shine before I've even waxed it. Can you use novus 3 on the pf? There's a ball track I can't shift.

image.jpgimage.jpg
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Should I keep these 2 mylars?

#24 10 years ago

The Mylar pic wouldn't go in the last reply

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#25 10 years ago

Magic eraser and 91%+ rubbing alcohol will take out the ball trails. Don't use novus 3 on your machine. I removed all the mylar, canned air method and used goo gone for the left over adhesive.

#26 10 years ago

same problem here with the ball lines. I will try rubbing alcool.

1 week later
#27 10 years ago

Just been repopulating the pf any idea where this bit goes? Been scratching my head for half an hour can't even see it in my pics

image.jpgimage.jpg

#28 10 years ago

That piece goes on the yellow lane next to the scarf

#29 10 years ago

Here

20130405_213301.jpg20130405_213301.jpg

#30 10 years ago

Glad you found it, I just spent the last 20 minutes trying to find it for him and couldn't locate it. There is nothing worse than knowing something is there in front of you and still not being able to see it lol!

#31 10 years ago
Quoted from Bones06:

Glad you found it, I just spent the last 20 minutes trying to find it. There is nothing worse than knowing something is there in front of you and still not being able to see it lol!

Absolutely, glad I could help

#32 10 years ago

Things are going nicely. keep the good work.

#33 10 years ago

Cheers guys, I've finished for the night now got all the stainless, posts, rubbers and LEDs on. I need a few fittings I can't find online if anyone has any knocking about (I'd be happy to pay). I need one off the machine screws that holds the metal and plastic return guid think they are 1/4" 50 mm long and a matching t-nut and one of the plastic spacer things. Another thing I've been searching sites across the world for is the right side tubular button fixtures that hold the gun grip on. I can't find the original ones online anywhere so I tried one from a diff gun (dirty Harry I think) part num ends in 47 but that's to short. There's a longer one part num ends in 46 but I can't find that anywhere either. If anyone can help I'd be very greatfu

Rudi

#34 10 years ago

You're looking for 02-5041-15g right? Google search makes it look like you're not the first to not find that part.

I can try and check if my Indiana Jones gun uses a similar length fastener. I'm doubting it though, the IJ gun doesn't have grips, so it's probably like DH, and shorter. I need to take my Shadow gun apart for a project, I can see what the length is.

The screws that going into that fastener are 10-32, maybe you can find a non-pinball source for them, that's a standard size.

#35 10 years ago

Love seeing these threads. Keep up the good work!!!

Chris

#36 10 years ago

Yeah that's the original part num

#37 10 years ago

Going abit slow here at the mo while I wait for parts. Cleaned the underside and inserts. Started repopulating the underside as far as I can (can't put the taller stuff on else I can't flip it safely).
image.jpgimage.jpg
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I remembered seeing a connector that needed re crimping because I could see wire strands poking out the top. Well they were worse than I thought and quite a lazy hack IMO.
image.jpgimage.jpg
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Half half arsed crimped and half soldered.

Also re decaled the diverters
image.jpgimage.jpg
Before and after

#38 10 years ago

The last couple nights Ive been working on my first mod.
So.... She arrived with a very poor quality scanned and applied decal.

image.jpgimage.jpg

It had to go.

image.jpgimage.jpg

Ive been trying to find this stuff for ages. I didn't want the crappy paper stuff or the rubbish over priced decal I wanted realistic, textured and 3d. I eventually found it on a uk site called my tiny world called handmade brick cladding its £12.99 a sheet 23 x 13".

After being glued and trimmed up.

image.jpgimage.jpg

The finished product im quite chuffed with it.

image.jpgimage.jpg

Also installed all the insert led's while the pf was still flipped already found a couple mistakes in the coin taker kit short 1 yellow 44 and 3 red 555 so far. Ill be on to marcos once ive fitted them all and turned it on to check they all work. Which leds is it that only work one way? Now just got to wait for my last few parts crank arms, plastics, ramp flaps. Got my waterslide paper today so hopefully ill finish the sanctum tomoz pics to follow

#39 10 years ago

Looks good rudedogg

#40 10 years ago

Just finished my sanctum repair, bit annoyed the grey turned out a lil paler but its 100% better than it was. This is what I did
image.jpgimage.jpg
This is what it was like under the worn out overlay. Someone had attempted to use a dark grey filler dunno what it was but it was rock hard took me an age to get it level. Even that had a couple holes in which you can see I hit with a little filler to start with.
image.jpgimage.jpg
Next fill and sand.
image.jpgimage.jpg
A white base coat and filled any blemishes.
image.jpgimage.jpg
Hit it with some grey making sure when I masked the area I masked off a fraction of the outline so id have a guide to lay down my custom made waterslide. Followed by a light clear to lay the waterslide transfer on.
image.jpgimage.jpg
Heres my clear waterslide transfer all ready to go.
image.jpgimage.jpg
Transfer layed down and a quick blast of clear to seal. I will be mylaring it to once cured. for some reason the flash makes it look an even worse match. As you can see from the phone pic its a pretty much exact match to the rear loop.

#41 10 years ago

Good job on the sanctum repair. Do you know where I could buy a waterside lettering decal for mine? I haven't tackled mine yet cause I need a way to address the lettering. Pictures always make the colors look a bit different but to the naked eye it will look like a good match.

#42 10 years ago

thanks kc

well its all repopulated minus plastics (which should be here tomoz), ramps and wireforms which are gonna be recrombed.
The good news it works as does the mini kicker yay. The bad news is the rings and ring flashers didn't just need new bulbs they still don't work so im still scratching my head. And now the sanctum optos arnt working which I also have no idea how to sort. Still getting the 2 switch errors even tho ive replaced em so now im stuck

#44 10 years ago

Oh I forgot to add, the little black lines that you see on different spots of the playfield are where mylar goes if anyone out there didn't know.

#45 10 years ago

before I stripped it down I didn't realise that

#46 10 years ago

Ink jet or laser printer? Where did you get the template to print? I'd make them also if it's easy enough.

#47 10 years ago

I made it well I got a mate to photoshop it oh and laser inkjet would prob bleed

4 weeks later
#48 10 years ago

Well shes now 90% working got all the lights and flashers working and all the optos. Like everything pinball fix one thing and something else screws up. Now the magnet don't work or the small coil that knocks the mini drop down down. Did abit of investigating tonight I thought the small coil on the single dropdown and the magnet are prob on the same connectors which they are (j907 and j902) on the fliptronic board then I checked the fuses on there. And fuse f904 had indeed blown. So I thought yay pop a fuse in and that's fixed. So I fire her up go into tests and the single drop down drops and the magnet activates. Then I go in to magnet test the wall drops the magnet buzzes briefly the says er wall target bad and the fuse has blown again. Anyone have any idea what I need to be checking?

last 2 probs are minor I think..... Balls seem to get held up in the lock wich I think its getting stuck on the wire from one of micro switches so should be able to bend it back. The last prob is odd the popper that fires the ball up onto the battlefield sometimes stays up so when the ball rolls onto it it doesn't drop and activate the switch so not sure how to fix that :s

Rudi

#50 10 years ago

Keep up the good work RudeDogg,its looking great,would love to get a shadow one day,looks like there abit going on with it,saw another thread where someone did there wire forms and other metal parts in brass,looks real cool,anyway i,ll keep an eye on your progress and see how its all going,sure i,ll have to come back an take notes of the hard work one day... keep up the good work mate..

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