So I finally decided to embark on the sanctum repair on my shadow. I put off this repair because I feel more comfortable with the mechanical stuff than I do with the cosmetic things. So a couple of things the other sanctum repair guides don't mention, number one is the type of filler to use, if I could do the repair again I'd use the 2 part JB Weld stuff, because it seems they cure harder than the regular wood filler and this sanctum area needs a solid foundation to work correctly. The other important note is the paint application, if you want the color to look uniform it needs to be sprayed on, the brushed on paint ends up looking uneven, I bought an airbrush set because of this, but don't fret the airbrush is not that expensive, as for the compressor you can get one at home depot, If you don't need it you can always take it back. I ended up keeping mine. OK the pics are pretty self explanatory but here is quick synopsis:
1. Remove ramps, plastics and parts, take lot's of pictures so you can remember how the parts need to go back together.
2. Tape up the sanctum area, I used Aluminum tape to make sure my sanding did not damage the surrounding pf in case I ran off the repair.
3. Take off the loose damaged wood around the repair, make sure there are no splinters.
4. Rough up the area with 80 grit or similar and fill it with the JB weld. As I said earlier the success of this repair depends how packed in/hard the filler is. About 10-20 min in the cure time use the bottom of a table spoon to pack down the repair area, yes this will make it uneven but we will sand it smooth again and refill it before we paint.
5. After the filler, you will need to tape up the whole are because you will need to paint the repair. I used an airbrush, before this I've never used one so it's not that hard. The paint I used was a paint I gleaned off of another sanctum repair guide here on pinside. I will updated this part later with the paint's name.
6. I put on about 10 light coats, waiting 30 minutes between coats.
7. I then installed the water decal, it not hard but it was my first time so it curled up on me and I ended up tearing it. Btw, I scanned the decal if anyone needs the scan, I will email it and you can print your own (on decal paper) on a laser printer.
before you apply it use a wet napkin and dab a little water in the repair area so you can move the decal around when you transfer it to the painted area. Let it dry for about 4 hours then shoot it with some clear.
7. I then shot multiple layers of clear coat on the repair area (I went on with 6 coats) a minimum of 45 minutes of wait time between coats. I don't have any experience about clearing a pf, I just used common sense, I used triple thick but there maybe other suitable or better products. The spray can will introduce some bubbles but trust me it will be very hard to see them unless you're right up against the repair area.
To remind one last time, take pictures, you will need at least 2 or 3 sanctum waterslide decals, in case you tear a few up.
**** The most important thing I was trying to impart about this repair is that after you fill the void you must use a spoon or a similar tool to pack the repair area down just before it's full cure time, then wait till it cures, sand it again then refill a final time. why? because after I finished the repair which took almost the whole weekend I noticed after about 50 games the ball was making a slight dimple again, if I had packed the JB weld stuff down chances are that would not have happened.
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Buffalo, NY
Hamilton, ON
