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(Topic ID: 131779)

Shadow Sanctum Repair ---updated


By kvan99

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by stef34
  • Topic is favorited by 15 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

So I finally decided to embark on the sanctum repair on my shadow. I put off this repair because I feel more comfortable with the mechanical stuff than I do with the cosmetic things. So a couple of things the other sanctum repair guides don't mention, number one is the type of filler to use, if I could do the repair again I'd use the 2 part JB Weld stuff, because it seems they cure harder than the regular wood filler and this sanctum area needs a solid foundation to work correctly. The other important note is the paint application, if you want the color to look uniform it needs to be sprayed on, the brushed on paint ends up looking uneven, I bought an airbrush set because of this, but don't fret the airbrush is not that expensive, as for the compressor you can get one at home depot, If you don't need it you can always take it back. I ended up keeping mine. OK the pics are pretty self explanatory but here is quick synopsis:

1. Remove ramps, plastics and parts, take lot's of pictures so you can remember how the parts need to go back together.
2. Tape up the sanctum area, I used Aluminum tape to make sure my sanding did not damage the surrounding pf in case I ran off the repair.
3. Take off the loose damaged wood around the repair, make sure there are no splinters.
4. Rough up the area with 80 grit or similar and fill it with the JB weld. As I said earlier the success of this repair depends how packed in/hard the filler is. About 10-20 min in the cure time use the bottom of a table spoon to pack down the repair area, yes this will make it uneven but we will sand it smooth again and refill it before we paint.
5. After the filler, you will need to tape up the whole are because you will need to paint the repair. I used an airbrush, before this I've never used one so it's not that hard. The paint I used was a paint I gleaned off of another sanctum repair guide here on pinside. I will updated this part later with the paint's name.
6. I put on about 10 light coats, waiting 30 minutes between coats.
7. I then installed the water decal, it not hard but it was my first time so it curled up on me and I ended up tearing it. Btw, I scanned the decal if anyone needs the scan, I will email it and you can print your own (on decal paper) on a laser printer.
before you apply it use a wet napkin and dab a little water in the repair area so you can move the decal around when you transfer it to the painted area. Let it dry for about 4 hours then shoot it with some clear.
7. I then shot multiple layers of clear coat on the repair area (I went on with 6 coats) a minimum of 45 minutes of wait time between coats. I don't have any experience about clearing a pf, I just used common sense, I used triple thick but there maybe other suitable or better products. The spray can will introduce some bubbles but trust me it will be very hard to see them unless you're right up against the repair area.

To remind one last time, take pictures, you will need at least 2 or 3 sanctum waterslide decals, in case you tear a few up.

**** The most important thing I was trying to impart about this repair is that after you fill the void you must use a spoon or a similar tool to pack the repair area down just before it's full cure time, then wait till it cures, sand it again then refill a final time. why? because after I finished the repair which took almost the whole weekend I noticed after about 50 games the ball was making a slight dimple again, if I had packed the JB weld stuff down chances are that would not have happened.

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#2 5 years ago

The final repair look...I'm happy with it but I could probably do better next time.
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#3 5 years ago

Looks pretty good but I'd be concerned about the use of triple thick as a pf clearcoat. I don't think it has good durability.. If no spray booth and/or equipment I'd go varathane. Just a thought for anyone else attempting this.

#4 5 years ago

Thanks for the detailed write-up. Just got a Shadow over the weekend and have a beat up sanctum that will need to be repaired just like this.

#5 5 years ago

Would a piece of mylar be a better option instead of using triple thick?

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Would a piece of mylar be a better option instead of using triple thick?

Thanks for asking, I forgot to just ask that. Is clear coating the area needed if mylar is going down?

#7 5 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Thanks for asking, I forgot to just ask that. Is clear coating the area needed if mylar is going down?

If you (or someone else) ever decides to remove the Mylar, then yes it will need some sort of clear. Otherwise the Mylar will pull the paint right up.

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

If you (or someone else) ever decides to remove the Mylar, then yes it will need some sort of clear. Otherwise the Mylar will pull the paint right up.

Supposedly, if you wax, then put mylar down, it's less of an issue.

#9 5 years ago

Hi...I'm pretty sure the Mylar will pull the decal up, if you don't want the clear build up around that area just a few shots of clear would be only microns thin and enough to keep the decal safe with the Mylar.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Supposedly, if you wax, then put mylar down, it's less of an issue.

Believe me, it will still pull it up. I went that route on some touchup I did on my HS.....wax didn't do a thing. Paint came up.

#11 5 years ago

Looks good kvan!

It is a big job if done correctly so I certainly understand your procrastination.

For reference, I completed the Sanctum repair in a similar fashion, JB weld (no packing), airbrushed with Apple Barrel Country Grey-#20526 (Very nice match), Varathane, wax and mylar covering.

3 years latter it still looks like the day it was completed.

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from rplante:

For reference, I completed the Sanctum repair in a similar fashion, JB weld (no packing), airbrushed with Apple Barrel Country Grey-#20526

Thanks that's the paint....

1 month later
#13 5 years ago
Quoted from kvan99:

So a couple of things the other sanctum repair guides don't mention, number one is the type of filler to use, if I could do the repair again I'd use the 2 part JB Weld stuff, because it seems they cure harder than the regular wood filler

I have done a few test of various filler and honestly regular wood filler (like Elmer's wood filler) was the worst and would come off with your fingernail (really okay for cabinet work only). The wood epoxy QuikWood, which is everyone's go-to favorite failed sooner than JB Kwikweld. I am not saying that JB Kwikweld was better than any other filler but it seemed to be the strongest to any of these: Elmers wood filler, Permatex Permaoxy Multimetal epoxy, Quickwood, Blue magic Quicksteel, JB wood weld epoxy.

I will try to post the results from the comparison test soon. I then simulated scoop hole wear spots on playfield like plywood. Then repaired the damage with various fillers and epoxies.

I then built jig (a 5ft pvc pipe with holes at every 6 inches, not at a 90 degree drop but about a 85 degrees) to drop a pinball from various heights which would focus a strike directly on the edge of the repair, I was looking for any type of chips or damage.

I was able to repeatedly drop a pinball on JB kwikweld at 5ft and it did not fail... Quikwood failed on the first attempt at 4.5 feet. So far JB Kwikweld has been the strongest (whack resistant!) of everything I have tested.... but my tests continue.

I have not yet tested bondo filler or bondo brand fiberglass filler, but I will soon and then post all the results.

#14 5 years ago

Very cool. Thank for taking the time to let us know the results of these tests.

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Would a piece of mylar be a better option instead of using triple thick?

Good question, I was thinking the same thing. OP did an excellent repair! I think a valid option should be mylar though.

#16 5 years ago
Quoted from wantdataeast:

I have done a few test of various filler and honestly regular wood filler (like Elmer's wood filler) was the worst and would come off with your fingernail (really okay for cabinet work only). The wood epoxy QuikWood, which is everyone's go-to favorite failed sooner than JB Kwikweld. I am not saying that JB Kwikweld was better than any other filler but it seemed to be the strongest to any of these: Elmers wood filler, Permatex Permaoxy Multimetal epoxy, Quickwood, Blue magic Quicksteel, JB wood weld epoxy.
I will try to post the results from the comparison test soon. I then simulated scoop hole wear spots on playfield like plywood. Then repaired the damage with various fillers and epoxies.
I then built jig (a 5ft pvc pipe with holes at every 6 inches, not at a 90 degree drop but about a 85 degrees) to drop a pinball from various heights which would focus a strike directly on the edge of the repair, I was looking for any type of chips or damage.
I was able to repeatedly drop a pinball on JB kwikweld at 5ft and it did not fail... Quikwood failed on the first attempt at 4.5 feet. So far JB Kwikweld has been the strongest (whack resistant!) of everything I have tested.... but my tests continue.
I have not yet tested bondo filler or bondo brand fiberglass filler, but I will soon and then post all the results.

I am interested in the future bondo fiberglass. It just may surprise all of us! This stuff is rugged. I patched a crack near the license plate on my 80 vette. Superb! Sands find and has minimal shrinkage while curing. It is 2 part so the timer starts after mixing. Have a plan in place beforehand or you will be mixing a new batch. It sets very fast!

#17 5 years ago

i think it would have been better to repaint all the area sanctum like this u can't see the difference in between the grey color and then a located clear coat and perfect

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