(Topic ID: 187273)

Shadow sanctum repair 2017


By SPARKY70

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 38 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by PetersonExpress
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

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    #1 3 years ago

    Hi everyone, ive had a shadow for a little while now, and finally have gotten around to stripping and cleaning it all.
    It has the usual sanctum wear, and i am ready to fix it right...

    i have spent a few hours searching on the net, and here.

    through my research, i have found that either bondo body filler, or JB kwikweld are the 2 top choices.

    the posts i have read, are a few years old, and im curious if these are still the top 2 options.

    If so, which one is considered the best?

    After repairing and sanding smooth, i will be painting the grey, possibly with the apple barrel country grey.

    my lettering area "TO THE SANCTUM", has some damage to the bottom of the NCT of sanctum, so i had thought about purchasing the sticker to cover this area, but i hear that the grey was not a good match. has this been corrected to match better?

    I also read about a water slide decal with the lettering. where would i be able to get one of those?

    any help is appreciated, id like to get started asap...but will wait for some experienced advice...thanks.....sparky

    #2 3 years ago

    Hello I will share what I did. I had a divet in mine. Also someone else did half ass repair. What i did was remove the old filler that someone used. Clean the area good and wipe down with alcohol. I found it helps the bondo stick to the playfield. I used a bondo glaze purchased at menards. It is rather thin also paint like. Already has harder in it and speads easy. Spread it, let dry, sand, repeat til your happy. I let sit 24 hours between coats. I wasn't in a rush. Once it was flat and was happy with it I installed the decal. But your going to paint it. Even better. I would put maylar down. Jeremy

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    #3 3 years ago

    hi Jeremy, thanks for the input. how long ago did you do yours, and how is it holding up? thanks

    #4 3 years ago

    It took a few days. I let it cure 24 hours between coats. I was in no rush. Give it cure time. Sand, repeat. Don't rush it. Take your time you will get better results. It has held up great so far. Knock on wood. Yes the magnet will still hold the ball through the bondo. No problem magnetize the balls.

    #5 3 years ago

    Please show pictures of your Sanctum.

    #6 3 years ago

    Better picture of repair

    20160416_112738 (resized).jpg

    #7 3 years ago

    Here's a link for the "To The Sanctum" text for printing on a waterslide decal.

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/227626/Shared/shadow-sanctum-decal.pdf

    Here's the current state of my Shadow repair. The blue tape is just so I didn't get the epoxy anywhere but that spot and to protect the other areas when sanding it. Once I have this sanded smooth I'm paint with that Apple Barrel gray, which is a very close match for sure. Then I'll print the waterslide decal for the text.

    20170424_073651 (resized).jpg

    #8 3 years ago

    Cavalier, i will try to grab a pic when i get home.

    PoMC, thanks for the pdf.

    Where do you get the waterslide paper?
    I only have an inkjet printer, but heard it must be laser printed or it will run.

    Also, i noticed that you both left the magnet and optos in place. Is that for support from underneath while the repair is being made?
    I removed mine to give me some extra room while working on it....thanks

    #9 3 years ago
    Quoted from SPARKY70:

    Where do you get the waterslide paper?

    Any office supply store or Amazon will have the waterslide paper. Might even be able to have an office place print it for you there too.

    Quoted from SPARKY70:

    Also, i noticed that you both left the magnet and optos in place. Is that for support from underneath while the repair is being made?

    I have tape covering the front of the optos and might remove them to make it easier to sand and paint like you did.

    #10 3 years ago
    Quoted from SPARKY70:

    Where do you get the waterslide paper?

    http://www.decalpaper.com/product-p/wl825c.htm

    That's the decal paper I use.

    Quoted from SPARKY70:

    but heard it must be laser printed or it will run

    Yep. Also, the decals should be printed when the printer is first turned on, not after it has been sitting a while and baking, or it will be too hot for the decal paper.

    #11 3 years ago

    Thanks PoMC, and forceflow for the quick replies.
    PoMC, what did you use to fill?
    Thanks. Sparky

    #12 3 years ago
    Quoted from SPARKY70:

    Thanks PoMC, and forceflow for the quick replies.
    PoMC, what did you use to fill?
    Thanks. Sparky

    I used JB Kwik Weld based on what other Pinsiders used on their repairs.

    #13 3 years ago

    Oh, and if you just want to play the game for a bit before doing the repair, here's a tip:

    Scotch tape a credit card/grocery store club card, smooth side up to cover the worn spot. Magnet will grab the ball just fine and you can keep playing until you decide to tackle the repair. I played my Shadow for over 6 months with a card taped down over my divot.

    #14 3 years ago

    Thanks. For the tip, i saw that posted here, and thought it was definately thinking outside the box, which is what i often do.

    Was that your post?
    My game is already all apart though.

    #15 3 years ago

    Is quikweld a two part material that has to be mixed?

    #16 3 years ago
    Quoted from SPARKY70:

    Is quikweld a two part material that has to be mixed?

    Yup, I mixed it in a little plastic cup and then used a popsicle stick to apply it. Then broke the stick in half and used the edge to drag over the divot to fill it in and smooth out.

    #17 3 years ago

    My own experience with the two part epoxy stick (for a hole repair) is that application can be tricky in terms of adhesion and thickness. The putty isn't as fluid as bondo and it does not fee like it sticks to the surface as much.

    Also, it dries super hard and sanding flat after a while isn't trivial without being super careful protecting the surrounding area.

    #18 3 years ago
    Quoted from PoMC:

    Here's a link for the "To The Sanctum" text for printing on a waterslide decal.
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/227626/Shared/shadow-sanctum-decal.pdf

    Thanks for sharing! Hopefully I don't need all those on the sheet

    #19 3 years ago

    If you want to paint the gray and just print out the text with a decal, you can use transparent decal paper instead of white decal paper:

    http://www.decalpaper.com/product-p/l825c.htm

    #20 3 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    If you want to paint the gray and just print out the text with a decal, you can use transparent decal paper instead of white decal paper:
    http://www.decalpaper.com/product-p/l825c.htm

    Isn't that what doing the waterslide decal of the text does?

    #21 3 years ago
    Quoted from PoMC:

    Isn't that what doing the waterslide decal of the text does?

    Yes--though my earlier link was for white paper, not transparent paper.

    #22 3 years ago

    Here is a shot before, and after filled and smoothed. I decided to go with the bondo since i am more familiar with it, and understand the the kwikweld is more like a putty, and possibly less sticky. I will probably go over it with the finishing glaze. But first some testing.

    image (resized).png
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    #23 3 years ago

    i'snt to bad. you should be alright

    #24 3 years ago

    Since ive had my shadow, the magnet vibrates when activated either with or without a ball (by hand). Is the vibration normal?

    #25 3 years ago

    A little bit of white primer.

    image (resized).png

    #26 3 years ago

    Some apple barrel country grey. This IS very close in color. I probably couldnt match it any better. Surrounded by some clear tape.

    #27 3 years ago

    Paint sanded down smooth, ready for some finishing coats.

    image (resized).jpeg

    1 week later
    #28 3 years ago

    Update on the finished repair?

    #29 3 years ago

    I'd love to see the updated repair as well! I'm currently employing the taped credit card: I'm actually using an old hilton honors card that happens to be grey and not a bad color match The magnets works perfectly using this method and is a great way to continue to enjoy the game, as PoMC already stated, until you're ready to tackle the repair.

    I've already purchased the JB KwikWeld, the apple country grey, the sand paper, and all I'm waiting for is the new decal that another pinsider is working on that is supposed to be a better color match than the one currently available. If I get that, then I won't need to paint which would be great.

    For mine, which has a hole through the cabinet and a flush magnet, I plan to use a combo of a wooden dowel and the kwik weld (I assumed the dowel won't be perfectly flush. I'll lower the magnet to where it's supposed to be and apply the new decal. Looking forward to it, but I have a fully working machine until then!

    #30 3 years ago

    Been very busy the past two weeks. Not finished yet.
    There is clear tape (with air bubbles) temporarily under the lettering so i can freehand the letters with black paint using a toothpick and magnafying glass. Sparky

    image (resized).jpeg

    #31 3 years ago

    Don't free-hand it. It will look terrible. I've seen more than enough poor paint jobs with hand-painted lettering on playfields.

    Three options: Make a waterslide decal, screen print the letters, or make a mask for the letters.

    #32 3 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Don't free-hand it. It will look terrible. I've seen more than enough poor paint jobs with hand-painted lettering on playfields.
    Three options: Make a waterslide decal, screen print the letters, or make a mask for the letters.

    +1. The color matching looks exceptionally good. Free handing it would ruin it.
    Another option would be to use a thin paint pen, a ruler and a circles template.

    #33 3 years ago

    Thats roughly what i meant by freehand, but how can i screenprint or create a mask? Thanks. Sparky

    #35 3 years ago

    Here is the Sanctum water decal scan...I believe it's the correct file size, so all you need is the decal paper, and hit print.

    pasted_image (resized).png

    4 months later
    #36 3 years ago

    Ok, after a long summer, and installing a new pool, i finally had time to work on my sanctum again.

    The paint color matched great, i ended up touching up the letters, then put a nice piece of mylar over it all.

    Im happy with the results, and it is practically unnoticeable, especially when i look right at it. The line on the right side of the word "THE" is a shadow from the clear plastic above it.
    Thanks for everybodys input!! Sparky

    image (resized).jpeg

    4 months later
    #37 2 years ago

    cavalier88z24 just wondering how that decal is holding up?
    I've just acquired a Shadow that's had the Sanctum repaired with Bondo or some sort of filler and it plays very nicely but looks a bit ugly as the bondo is covering a large area. The decal would seem a good solution to me and I definitely don't have the time or skills to do a paint job.
    But if the decals degrades or lifts up after a few months I wouldn't bother!
    Thanks

    Quoted from cavalier88z24:

    Hello I will share what I did. I had a divet in mine. Also someone else did half ass repair. What i did was remove the old filler that someone used. Clean the area good and wipe down with alcohol. I found it helps the bondo stick to the playfield. I used a bondo glaze purchased at menards. It is rather thin also paint like. Already has harder in it and speads easy. Spread it, let dry, sand, repeat til your happy. I let sit 24 hours between coats. I wasn't in a rush. Once it was flat and was happy with it I installed the decal. But your going to paint it. Even better. I would put maylar down. Jeremy

    1 year later
    #38 1 year ago

    Just curious how the decal is holding up and wondering if the divot has started to reappear in the bondo repair after some decent playing. Any loss in magnetism for the ball in the repair either? Getting ready to work on one in the next month. Appreciate any input

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