(Topic ID: 221336)

Shadow - Molex Connector help

By Guinnesstime

5 years ago



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#1 5 years ago

About to pull the trigger on a new Rottendog MPU board for The Shadow. Mine has a toasty connector. I'd rather replace the whole thing.

Only thing is, I have never made my own molex connector before, so any help on EXACTLY what I'd need I'd appreciate. It's the lower GI lighting, J121 in the manual.

What connector, tool, pins, etc should I get? Where from? Looks like K's Arcade has the board the cheapest.

Thanks!

- Rob

IMG_8958 (resized).JPGIMG_8958 (resized).JPG
#2 5 years ago

Ed has connectors, pins, and tools. https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

Size .156

New connector, new pins for connector ( get lots of extras to practice crimping ) and new pins on the board. You'll need to replace those or your new connector won't work or burn up fast.

Youtube should have plenty short videos on crimping to help you, then practice with scrap wire, then move onto the game.

LTG : )

#3 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Ed has connectors, pins, and tools. https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/
Size .156
New connector, new pins for connector ( get lots of extras to practice crimping ) and new pins on the board. You'll need to replace those or your new connector won't work or burn up fast.
Youtube should have plenty short videos on crimping to help you, then practice with scrap wire, then move onto the game.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd. Just a kit like this? https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=76650-3008

Great Plains' site is more confusing than women are to me.

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

Just a kit like this?

No, doesn't have an eleven pin connector or base with pins for the board or a crimping tool.

LTG : )

#5 5 years ago

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=26-48-1245 I'd get that and cut down to 11 pins.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0125&cat=81 Get 100 of these, so you have plenty for practice and mistakes.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CS156-11-LR And one of these ( a couple more if you want spares )

Get a crimper that fits your budget and use. I'd go cheap if only doing this once :

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=59

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=80

LTG : )

#6 5 years ago

I know it isn't popular but I'd just stick with IDC and re pin the board. I could re pin the entire board before I could crimp 4 wires I can't stand it...but then again I'm obviously not very good at it

#7 5 years ago

If you decide to stick with IDC and have not done this before, remember that the new IDC plug is designed for one terminal wire. If there are through wires, you need to remove the plastic tab on the other side of the connection. you cannot locate the wire correctly into the connector if you do not remove the tab. If you decide to go this way, you will see what I mean as soon as you compare the new connector to the old one. Check out your "toasty" circuit as you could still have an issue on the playfield. Rottondog driver board is not cheap and a lot more sensitive than your original boards.

How good is Lloyd s help! He even let you know where to buy all the stuff you will need. That is just outstanding help.

Good luck!

#8 5 years ago

That's a driver, not an MPU, fyi

#9 5 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

That's a driver, not an MPU, fyi

Correct. Racking my brain over here with a bathroom remodel as well!

#10 5 years ago

If you're not comfortable replacing the connector on the board, send it out for repair. It will be much cheaper than if you buy a new Rottendog board, and likely avoiding new issues with the new board.

If you send the driver board out, send the MPU with it to get NVRAM installed. ChrisHibler will be happy to get them done for you.

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