(Topic ID: 239568)

Shadow Fuse 114 115 error


By bsbdmd83

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by bsbdmd83
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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2019-02-02 14_20_45-WPC ribbon cable to reseat - Paint (resized).png
20190505_105431 (resized).jpg

#1 1 year ago

Just picked up a shadow that was playing fine at friends home. Got it home and factory settings message came on- assumed batteries were dead, so tried to enter test menu- buttons do not work. Replaced batteries and now get Check Fuse 114 115 error. Fuses removed and toned fine. Service menu buttons do not work. No acid damage seen on battery holder or MPU.

Started to follow test for error message. First says check LED6- this is not on. LED1 is also not on. Here is where I need help. I assume the service buttons do not work because its not getting voltage. I tested the service menu button wires for continuity to molex holder and they are fine.

My board service level is nil but I am willing to trouble shoot more. Guides say to check BR1 on power board and D1, D2 diodes on CPU board. Is this correct and what do I check and what settings on DMM?

Thanks for help

#2 1 year ago

I'd check your voltage test points on the driver board.

Youtube has lots of short how to videos to learn how to use your meter.

And this - http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Check_fuses_F114_and_F115_message

LTG : )

#3 1 year ago

Something easy you can do is remove and re-seat each connector. My Shadow last night stopped kicking a ball into the shooter lane. I reseated that connector and it started working again. Hopefully it's something easy like that since it just was moved from place to place. Test all the fuses as well while you're in there.

If you need to dig further, this site has some good info - you might've already found this info, but will post it if it helps anyone else.

http://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=5263.0;wap2

#4 1 year ago

I did test. Tp8 does not by have a 18 volts hence led6 is not lot and led1 is not lit indicating no 12 volts at tp

#5 1 year ago

Bad 12 volt regulator? See if you 12 volts output on the regulator
Also see if you have continuity from F115 to Q2 Leg 3 which is the bottom leg on Q2

#7 1 year ago

Thanks Chris- I read through and tested everything. Not getting 18V at TP8 or digital 12V at TP3. Took the board out and BR1 has been replaced but gives some wonky readings. You still doing repairs and testing?

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from bsbdmd83:

You still doing repairs and testing?

Send him a PM.

LTG : )

#9 1 year ago

I can also isolate if it's the power driver board by swapping with my cftbl or wh20. Any problems doing that. Will I damage the cftbl or wh2o board in trying

#10 1 year ago

Yep. You can safely swap boards.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

1 month later
#11 1 year ago

Okay- boards back in and power is good- thanks Chris. Unfortunately the DMD is acting up- see pic. I have relooked at my connections ( we did take out both power and MPU boards). The other interesting thing is I tried otherDMD ( I only had some Cherry's- tried 2 of them) and those displays were blank- didnt get the horizontal lines like the one in the shadow. I thought all DMDs were interchangeable??

Cable issue? Power issue? any guidance is appreciated. I can almost feel we are there.

20190505_105431 (resized).jpg
#12 1 year ago

Not sure if this will work since I hadn't seen that animation issue on a DMD before, but does not hurt to try to reseat this ribbon cable. If that does not help, then swap the DMD controller board.
2019-02-02 14_20_45-WPC ribbon cable to reseat - Paint (resized).png

#13 1 year ago

Okay reseated all ribbons as well as 204-209 on MPU and cable from MPU to power and she worked for about 10 mins, then vertical lines and now black

#14 1 year ago

Okay swapped DMD board with known CFTBL- same issue
Replaced all ribbon cables to DMD board and from DMD to display with know good cables from CFTBL

Screen will flicker to normal display then go to vertical lines and when I replaced all the old cables, for a moment when powered all all flippers locked on and eventually released.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from bsbdmd83:

Screen will flicker to normal display then go to vertical lines and when I replaced all the old cables, for a moment when powered all all flippers locked on and eventually released.

All cables in right spots ? Red stripe pin one each end ?

LTG : )

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from bsbdmd83:

when I replaced all the old cables, for a moment when powered all all flippers locked on and eventually released.

This almost sounds like you have the ribbon cable one row off (either at the top left MPU or at the fliptronix board) and then blew out a fuse at the top right of the driver board if you left it on.

#17 1 year ago

Can you post a picture of everything connected with power on?

#18 1 year ago

yes will do. Noticed no flashing middle LED on boot anymore either

#19 1 year ago

i mean on the MPU board- did discover F112 blown ( secondary solenoid). Will replace. Probably blew when flippers locked on. Does this keep the game from booting or separate issue?

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#20 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

This almost sounds like you have the ribbon cable one row off (either at the top left MPU or at the fliptronix board) and then blew out a fuse at the top right of the driver board if you left it on.

As you unplug each connector of the same ribbon cable I referred to in the picture with 4 connections, see if it is plugged in one row off, especially at the fliptronix board (top left board).

#21 1 year ago

Okay you were right. the connection at the sound board was a row off- now game boots, DMD started out flaky but then after warming up seems to be okay for now. Tried wiggling connectors while it was on but didnt seem to make a difference. Will replace F112 and start diagnostics. Only error message is bad coil on wall target and another message about the wall target

#22 1 year ago

The ball popper assembly keeps firing. Looking at it, there is supposed to be a spring on the upper part under the black ball cup. Its marked 10-148 spring in the manual. Parts searches show this as a shooter spring. I can find the lower spring which is 10-135, but not the upper spring. Any ideas? Cross compatibility

20190505_151237 (resized).jpg20190505_153013 (resized).jpg
#24 1 year ago

Not sure thats the right one. I had some thin spring material and just made one.

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