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(Topic ID: 86919)

Shadow DMD is out (update 5/6/14)


By MagicMako

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 21 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by MikeO
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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20140408_001335.jpeg

#1 6 years ago

So I had known something was up for awhile, the DMD was "smokey" on my Shadow, basically sections of the display were out and would slowly fade in after a few seconds. Here is a vid of what i mean that was taken 5 months ago

I have already swapped the DMD from my Shadow to my BSD and it works perfect, so i know the DMD itself is not the problem.

Just last week the DMD didnt come on when I turned on the game, just a blank screen, i started a game and the DMD came on 100% about 30 seconds into the first ball and it stayed on for the rest of the time i had the machine on.

Now the DMD does not come on at all, there are maybe 6 or 7 dots that show up in the bottom right corner but thats it. So after doing some research it would seem like this isnt uncommon and that the HV section of the DMD board gets burnt up after awhile sometimes, it would appear this is the case, because after a closer inspection of the board last night this is what I found

20140408_001335.jpeg

looks pretty burnt up down there.

So my questions are these,

Do you believe I'm correct in my diagnosis?

If so, should i get a HV section rebuild kit? or should i buy a new board?

From what ive read, sometimes the damage is beyond the components so the rebuild kit doesnt do much good and a replacement of the board is necessary.

Thanks for any opinions/advice.

#2 6 years ago

I would start with testing the voltage for each pin, and see if your correct about the HV section. Pinwiki has a great article on how to do that, I would then go with the rebuild kit, why not try your hand at a $8.00 fix, then a new board will always do the trick.

#3 6 years ago

I'd reseat the ribbon cables from the MPU > DMD controller board and the DMD controller to DMD just to make sure it's not the cables. I'm guessing not but you never know. Test the points on the pins as coz6 suggested above and if they're not good then I'd definitely rebuild the HV section of the board and save yourself about $100

#4 6 years ago

What's a new controller board? LIke $70 bucks? Just grab the new board imo.

It's good to learn soldering, etc., but after you get done ordering parts and going to the trouble of installing, you're better off just getting a new rottendog board. Plus the other parts on the new board are brand new and more robust as well.

You can always sell the old board too.

#5 6 years ago

In your video of the display, it looks like the display is failing. This will have contributed to the demise of the HV section of your DMD driver board, assuming the HV section has failed. The failing display will continue to strain the rebuilt or replaced HV section, whichever route you go. So in the end, it may need to be replaced as well depending on how much you use your game.

Do you have another game to test the Shadow display and display driver board in? That would help reconcile where your issue(s) lie(s).

If the HV section has failed, I have a couple of HV piggyback boards for sale, $40 shipped to the conus, if you want one as a more affordable option.

Mike O.

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Do you have another game to test The Shadow display and display driver board in? That would help reconcile where your issue(s) lie(s).

He swapped the DMD to BSD.

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

I would start with testing the voltage for each pin, and see if your correct about the HV section. Pinwiki has a great article on how to do that, I would then go with the rebuild kit, why not try your hand at a $8.00 fix, then a new board will always do the trick.

This is good advice. Test the HV for proper outputs and rebuild if any are off.
Here's a list to the kit that GPE sells: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=WPC-HVP-KIT
Don't be cheap. Replace the two filtering caps for $5.00 more while you're at it.
If you're not good with this sort of board work, buy a piggy back board as MikeO has suggested. $40.00 is very reasonable and installs in minutes.
I prefer to do the board work but that's just me.

#8 6 years ago

Thanks guys. Ok so I could also try swapping the board from my BSD to further confirm the problem?

Both DMDs worked in my BSD and both DMDs had that fading effect in my TS

I think im gonna try the replacement kit and if that doesnt work ill just buy a new board.

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from MagicMako:

Thanks guys. Ok so I could also try swapping the board from my BSD to further confirm the problem?
Both DMDs worked in my BSD and both DMDs had that fading effect in my TS
I think im gonna try the replacement kit and if that doesnt work ill just buy a new board.

Check the output voltages from the HV section of the power supply before you do any more swapping.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Testing_DMD_Controller_Power

The more I watch your video, the more I think it could be a RAM issue. But you say the board worked perfectly in another game?
I've seen displays get whacky as the power supply starts to fail. So let's see what those output voltages are shall we?

#10 6 years ago

Voltages from the connector at the DMD

Pin 1 - 120
Pin 2 - 108.1
Pin 6 - 4.8
Pin 7 - 12.1
Pin 8 - 15.2

from what i can understand, the first 2 pins are off by about 4volts? is this right?

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from MagicMako:

Voltages from the connector at the DMD
Pin 1 - 120
Pin 2 - 108.1
Pin 6 - 4.8
Pin 7 - 12.1
Pin 8 - 15.2
from what i can understand, the first 2 pins are off by about 4volts? is this right?

Pin 8 should be about 66~68 VDC. Pin 1 and 2 seem OK... although I've read there should be 20 V difference between them.

I just did a DMD swap.

#12 6 years ago
Quoted from MagicMako:

Voltages from the connector at the DMD
Pin 1 - 120
Pin 2 - 108.1
Pin 6 - 4.8
Pin 7 - 12.1
Pin 8 - 15.2
from what i can understand, the first 2 pins are off by about 4volts? is this right?

1 and 2 need to be 12 volts apart, and they should be negative DC.

Everything looks fine except #8, that should be around 60 v (edit: 62 v).

If you can do board work, buy the gpe kit and rebuild the entire HV section. These boards get very crispy, but you would be surprised how many can be saved.

If you can't do the board work, buy a replacement.

#13 6 years ago

ah man, the rebuild kit on GPE is out of stock, where else can i get one?

#14 6 years ago

Hmmm. Is there an echo in here?

Hope you can find a rebuilt kit, OP.

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from MagicMako:

ah man, the rebuild kit on GPE is out of stock, where else can i get one?

Email Ed at GPE. He can probably put a couple kits together an update his inventory if he knows there is a demand.
Or just look at the kit details and order all the components a' la carte.

See this post for some more guidance:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-anyone-who-thinking-about-rebuilding-their-wpcs-high-voltage-section

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from MagicMako:

ah man, the rebuild kit on GPE is out of stock, where else can i get one?

Buy the kit for Gottlieb System 3 and and a 120 ohm 5 watt cement resistor to your cart. The price will be the same as the B/W kit.

The only difference between the Gottlieb (excluded) and B/W (included) kit is the 120 ohm 5 watt resistor.

#17 6 years ago

Get the rottendog board. New parts. More robust. Save yourself the trouble.

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Get the rottendog board. New parts. More robust. Save yourself the trouble.

And miss out on the smell of hot solder and flux???

#19 6 years ago

lol, thanks for all the help guys, im gonna try to replace the components, I could use the practice, and if i mess up ill just buy the rottendog board

3 weeks later
#20 6 years ago

After giving it the ol' college try and removing all of the affected components from the board, I realized some of the traces were damaged as well, so I decided to just buy the rottendog board and the game works perfect now.

Is this old burned board worth anything?

#21 6 years ago

Sure. I'd give $20 shipped to zip code 66210 for it.

Mike O.

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