Webster, NY
Quoted from Shenanigander:do you think the bracket is the same part as this?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17790.1
jhjkhk.jpg 13 KB
some jbweld might work on that if you want to try saving about 54 bucks
(Topic ID: 105760)
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Shadow, The
Bally, 1994
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Digby, NS
Quoted from YKpinballer:This thread is so dramatic, i read it just to cheer for rcbrown
thats fantastic YK!!!! this is without question my toughest problem to date. I'll get it though. In the meantime I gain lots of experience to pass on and meet lots of cool people. if you'd like some more drama and a little chuckle go read this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-blow-up-your-genesis-lights-like-a-doofus
Quoted from rcbrown316:some jbweld might work on that if you want to try saving about 54 bucks
oh ya? If you think that would work ill see if I can hunt some down locally thanks!
3 weeks later
Quoted from GRUMPY:I'm out of ideas now. Both the popper and the drop target switches are working in switch test at the same time? Then maybe ribbon cable or ROM chip? Time to get expert advise. Keep after it, Don.
Looks
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrummmmmmmmmpppppppyyyyyyy!! Guess what? It's fuggin fixxxxxxed! Looks like I blew a hole in the driver chips when the kicker was shorting out. Damn that was a journey. Thanks to you and the others that guided me.
image.jpgIt's about time you got this fixed. Just kidding! Nice find, now you can enjoy the fruits of your labor. You should buy yourself a beer.
Quoted from GRUMPY:It's about time you got this fixed. Just kidding! Nice find, now you can enjoy the fruits of your labor. You should buy yourself a beer.
I'M GOING TO BUY YOU A BEER THEN I'LL DRINK IT FOR YOU. Since I already replaced that board I didn't consider looking at it again. Funny thing was that I was on it with my meter. inches away from the problem 
I wasted money on the mpu and driver boards. Also I have the original motor controller back in there with the new ic in it.. Huge learning experience though. You helped a ton grump. The game plays totally different now. Reached the final battle for the first time ever last night. so freakin cool. This game in the top two in my collection for sure.
Thanks again grump. I hope to repay the favor someday.
RB
Had my shadow for 3 years now and only beaten the final battle once, it was very cool. Now you need to hook up LED strips for a great light show and it will be your #1 pin.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Had my Shadow for 3 years now and only beaten the final battle once, it was very cool. Now you need to hook up LED strips for a great light show and it will be your #1 pin.
I'm gonna put a few spots in and mirror blades tonight. Where-to on the led strips?
I use a 5 meter roll of RGB LEDs. I did a U shape pattern on the bottom and the back / back box area. I then connected them to a LED controller thru a relay so that they can work during attract mode. Then I hooked up an opto isolator to the driver board flipper enable, this will switch the relay when you start a game disconnecting the LED controller and connecting them to the flasher controls on the driver board, making them interactive with game play. I have been connecting multiple pins together on the one LED controller so when they are in attract mode all the pins display the same colors and fading. You can use a remote and select all the pins to be red or any color you like, but play one pin and it and only it goes interactive. It really looks great.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I use a 5 meter roll of RGB LEDs. I did a U shape pattern on the bottom and the back / back box area. I then connected them to a LED controller thru a relay so that they can work during attract mode. Then I hooked up an opto isolator to the driver board flipper enable, this will switch the relay when you start a game disconnecting the LED controller and connecting them to the flasher controls on the driver board, making them interactive with game play. I have been connecting multiple pins together on the one LED controller so when they are in attract mode all the pins display the same colors and fading. You can use a remote and select all the pins to be red or any color you like, but play one pin and it and only it goes interactive. It really looks great.
damn man. That sounds complicated
2 months later
nice find...i had problems with my battlefield kicker, it was the opto board...now everythimg works good but sometimes game launch balls when i m playing battlefield, if i go to left and right too fast the game launches balls!!!
wish I had a quick fix on this. hopefully someone else does. ball launch issues are usually in the trough optos. thats a weird problem but consider you are creating two sources of vibration. one with your hands on the flipper buttons and the other from the motor and kicker in the mini pf. I'd start with a switch test then bump around the pf and see if anything registers. also go though the solenoid tests and see if there is anything that jumps out. btw i used the mpu i wasted my money on in this adventure to fix the indy i just got 
thanks as i told you before, i found issues on 10 opto boards..., i swapped another one and no more issues! i checked optos in ball trough before swapping and the reads were good but probably a vibration wake up some cold solder or something else...for now i let the new 10 opto board in the machine and enjoy it 100%
my battlefield kicker is still occasionally kicking by itself when the ball is up in the battlefield. kick, kick, kick repeatedly, even when the ball falls out of the battlefield it still kicks for a bit.
i found the right flipper opto board bad and replaced it. i cleaned and tested every other opto im sure. im back to square one 
Quoted from Shenanigander:my battlefield kicker is still occasionally kicking by itself when the ball is up in the battlefield. kick, kick, kick repeatedly, even when the ball falls out of the battlefield it still kicks for a bit.
i found the right flipper opto board bad and replaced it. i cleaned and tested every other opto im sure. im back to square one
square one is not working right?
that was my original problem. in trying to fix that i found 4 other problems and never had this problem 100% fixed. thought it was good but it has been happening lately 
make sure there is fishpaper covering the coil lugs. I had a kicking problem and that was it. if you move the kicker left to right see if it kicks in a certain position. dont let it kick too much or you'll blow the driver transistor
Quoted from GRUMPY:Mr. rcbrown316 knows his Shadow inside out now.
ANYONE WHO READS THIS WHOLE THREAD WILL SEE THAT i OWE IT ALL TO YOU GRUMP!!!
Quoted from GRUMPY:More like your determination. Maybe time for a less intense Avatar.</blockquot
More like your determination. Maybe time for a less intense Avatar.
i don't think it's time for that grump. here's what I got now!
ebd kicking my ass. gotta repin all the connectors and see what happens then waterslide and clear the PF
almost done with a bk restore. clearcoat playfield/swap. should have it done in a week
project taf in the shop-same thing
centaur-playfield swap
f2k project but almost there
just got a seawitch, taxi and i500 at allentown. all needed work and all in gameroom now
I need to find a more intense avatar!
It sounds like you just have to much to do. The nice guy that I am I would be willing to help you out. You put a couple of those pins on a palet and send them my way as I need a winter project. Once I fix them up I will send them right back to you! 
sue thing grump send me your address... and your account and routing numbers. it's only for security purposes
1 week later
Sounds like you guys had an adventure together. 
So my shadow battlefield issue is no where near as complicated as yours.. I hope. All my stuff works right but when the ball comes to the kicker is only sometimes fires. Works fine left to right and everything else. it seems to kick the ball when the ball is close to the IR but when it is in the middle of the play field not so much. Sometimes it works great and then stops working. Kinda strange. I am thinking to maybe replace the send/receive optos. What do you guys think?
rcbrown you should check out Aurich's translite replacement. I for one LOVE the game but hated the original art. His is pretty killer.
IMG_1083.JPGQuoted from rwood911:Sounds like you guys had an adventure together. So my Shadow battlefield issue is no where near as complicated as yours.. I hope. All my stuff works right but when the ball comes to the kicker is only sometimes fires. Works fine left to right and everything else. it seems to kick the ball when the ball is close to the IR but when it is in the middle of the play field not so much. Sometimes it works great and then stops working. Kinda strange. I am thinking to maybe replace the send/receive optos. What do you guys think?
rcbrown you should check out Aurich's translite replacement. I for one LOVE the game but hated the original art. His is pretty killer.IMG_1083.JPG</bloc
Listen to grump.Two questions for you rwood:
1. what did you do with your coat rack
2. how tall are you?RB
Quoted from GRUMPY:Check them for cracked solder joints.
Hey Grumpy,
Thanks for the reply.
I didn't see any cracked solder joints but re-soldered them anyways and it plays great with the glass off. When I put it back on it seems to only trigger the kicking motion when the ball is very close to the opto. It seems to work better on the right side of the battlefield then the left. I got some new optos in today so maybe ill try swapping them out.
I do have another problem. The yellow drop down target (A-14615-1) before you enter the battlefield's solenoid (AE-26-1200) one day a couple weeks ago decided to burn up. Popped the fuse after the solenoid burned up. Come to find out when I replaced both the fuse and the solenoid and watched it very closely it is activating as soon as it gets power and not releasing which is causing it to burn up. I tested the switches all around the solenoid and they are working. (Switch 55 [5647-12693-31]) and the small solenoid (SM1-26-600) that lowers the drop target and those are working normally. As you guys are pros with this do you have any suggestions before I go really crazy digging in?
Thanks.
Quoted from rcbrown316:Listen to grump.
Two questions for you rwood:
1. what did you do with your coat rack
2. how tall are you?
From what I have read in your post Grumpy does seem to be the man. I will listen.
1) Coat Rack? I live in Florida what are these coats that you are speaking of?
2) Right around 6 ft. why?
Ray
Quoted from rwood911:2) Right around 6 ft. why?
Oh because of the step stool under the game. That is for the little one. She is 10 and she's got a billion point high score. LOL.
Ray
Quoted from rwood911:it plays great with the glass off. When I put it back on it seems to only trigger the kicking motion when the ball is very close to the opto.
Very strange indeed. Maybe a good time to just replace them.
Quoted from rwood911:I replaced both the fuse and the solenoid and watched it very closely it is activating as soon as it gets power and not releasing which is causing it to burn up.
Do you mean as soon as you turn the main power switch on? If this is the case you may have a bad transistor on your driver board.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I replaced both the fuse and the solenoid and watched it very closely it is activating as soon as it gets power and not releasing which is causing it to burn up.
Do you mean as soon as you turn the main power switch on? If this is the case you may have a bad transistor on your driver board.
To be safe I am powering on the machine with the coin door open to keep the high power disabled. I close the door and I see the solenoid fire as soon as it has power and it just stays activated - doesn't release until I open the door back up and disable it. I was thinking maybe a diode stuck in an open or close position? That happened to me on another game and I had to replace it and it solved the problem but I don't see one anywhere to replace.
Ray
That's because there on the power driver board. I can look tonight at manual to which transistors need to be replaced.
Quoted from rwood911:Oh because of the step stool under the game. That is for the little one. She is 10 and she's got a billion point high score. LOL.
Ray
right!
Quoted from rwood911:Hey Grumpy,
Thanks for the reply.
I didn't see any cracked solder joints but re-soldered them anyways and it plays great with the glass off. When I put it back on it seems to only trigger the kicking motion when the ball is very close to the opto. It seems to work better on the right side of the battlefield then the left. I got some new optos in today so maybe ill try swapping them out.
I do have another problem. The yellow drop down target (A-14615-1) before you enter the battlefield's solenoid (AE-26-1200) one day a couple weeks ago decided to burn up. Popped the fuse after the solenoid burned up. Come to find out when I replaced both the fuse and the solenoid and watched it very closely it is activating as soon as it gets power and not releasing which is causing it to burn up. I tested the switches all around the solenoid and they are working. (Switch 55 [5647-12693-31]) and the small solenoid (SM1-26-600) that lowers the drop target and those are working normally. As you guys are pros with this do you have any suggestions before I go really crazy digging in?
Thanks.
Quoted from rwood911:Hey Grumpy,
Thanks for the reply.
I didn't see any cracked solder joints but re-soldered them anyways and it plays great with the glass off. When I put it back on it seems to only trigger the kicking motion when the ball is very close to the opto. It seems to work better on the right side of the battlefield then the left. I got some new optos in today so maybe ill try swapping them out.
I do have another problem. The yellow drop down target (A-14615-1) before you enter the battlefield's solenoid (AE-26-1200) one day a couple weeks ago decided to burn up. Popped the fuse after the solenoid burned up. Come to find out when I replaced both the fuse and the solenoid and watched it very closely it is activating as soon as it gets power and not releasing which is causing it to burn up. I tested the switches all around the solenoid and they are working. (Switch 55 [5647-12693-31]) and the small solenoid (SM1-26-600) that lowers the drop target and those are working normally. As you guys are pros with this do you have any suggestions before I go really crazy digging in?
Thanks.
for the glass on issue trying turning your lights off and playing in the dark to test something. I have heard cases where eroneous light sources affect the optos. you can affix a piece of shrink tubing to the receiver that will act like a lens hood. see if that works
Quoted from rcbrown316:for the glass on issue trying turning your lights off and playing in the dark to test something. I have heard cases where eroneous light sources affect the optos. you can affix a piece of shrink tubing to the receiver that will act like a lens hood. see if that works
also if that works in the dark tell what kind of light bulbs are in the lamps nearest the game. if they are cfls they could be emitting ir. whats that one that one in the foyer?
You need to check and replace Q26, Q25 and D8 as these parts control the single drop target up coil.
2 months later
Woody76 and I determined that this fixes it. I have yet to get my hands on one as I can't find one anywhere but he got one and it fixed it!
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/sb81.html
DOCUMENT #16-10112.1 - Is an assembly instruction procedure for the Mini-Playfield opto kit (Part # A-20424). This kit adds an extension bracket to the opto transistor assembly to help
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK-20424
If anyone else find a source for one of these can you let me know.
Ray
Good to hear that its fixed! I will have to see if mine has that extension bracket. You are teaching an old dog a new trick.
Thanks Grumps! Glad to share. I'm having a fun problem now check out this link maybe you can help me.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-help-from-shadow-owners#post-2603943
I saw that post right after yours. I just tried it and it worked. The white cable worked its way off one day while I was playing and I obviously connected it back to the wrong post without realizing I did. What a save that was.
3 years later
I hear the crickets for this post. Its 3 years and no posts, but was a great start as I just Picked up a Shadow. Seller sold due to illness. It has this opto issue too. In the test report states 2 issues: Opto issue number 36 mini kicker & ER. Battle Kicker opto not working. I changed out both optos to no avail. Ordered the Pindora Opto 24 Switch Board (15646). Cost was $75.63 after Euro conversion. Marco is always out of stock.
1 year later
Quoted from MikeSinMD:Did the Pindora board work out for you?
Yes. The board worked.
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