Just find the zero position switch on the credit unit and jumper it shut

You have several options:

1) Re-wire a coin switch to the start switch so you add a credit and then deduct a credit at the same time.

-or-

2) Add at least one credit then clip one of the wires to the credit wheel in the head that leads to the coil that deducts the credits

Mike V

Hi Kickout
here: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#free is the description. The second picture shows a Credit-Wheel slightly different than Yours. The red arrow shows ONE Switch (the switch to manipulate to be ALWAYS closed). In the text below the picture they write about TWO switches beeing there: YOUR pin.

Nice, here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-jubilee-gi-lamp-fuse-pops-on-start-up#post-3236183 is the part of the schematics to look for the TWO switches.
Thanks to JoeNewberry - here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-jubilee-gi-lamp-fuse-pops-on-start-up/page/2#post-3251666 he shows the complete schematics.

Lets look in the very first part of schematics (post-2) - there, on the left, just below the two red circles: Switch "Replay Unit Open at Zero" having soldered-on wire-brown, wire-grey-yellow. A lamp is lit if You have credits on the credit-counter - see the (unlit) light here on the left on the apron: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1321&picno=1249 . Think about "also manipulate THIS switch as always-closed" (?).

The ONE switch You must manipulate: In the schematics go from (left side of pic) Number "3" to the right - Switch "Replay Step-Up Zero Break" with wires "white-orange" and "white-brown". See this switch on the Credit-Wheel (?) - make it permanently closed (I do not like bending switchblades - I advice a Jumper-Wire and a paper-tag telling "Switch is manipulated to be permanently CLOSED"). Greetings Rolf
P.S: I had to change the important word at the end to "CLOSED".

Why do either of these when all you have to do is bend one switch permanently closed?

If you where a newbie these are the two easiest to explain without attempting find the correct switch. The second is also more obvious to find if you wish to undo. I go one step further and put a two point jones plug into the second option and mark free play. Then the next person getting the machine can easily reverse if they wish free play off.

You're saying it's easier to tell a newbie to "rewire a coin switch to the start switch" than it is to jumper one switch on the credit unit closed? Hmmm.

And if the newbie can't find the correct switch on the credit unit as you say, how is he going to find the correct switch the clip the wire on? They are usually adjacent to each other. Your second method will also lead to the credit wheel eventually becoming maxed out as replays are won and then the satisfying sound of the knocker will be lost.

To Mr Kickout, I would suggest sticking with the most often recommended solution illustrated in Clay's guides and elsewhere about jumpering the the decrement switch on the credit unit closed.

Just take an alligator wire jumper and clip each end to your best guess switch pair (if you don't fell like actually figuring it out). If you get free play, you're done. If not, move it to your next best guess. Once you find the switch pair, either bend them shut or leave the jumper in place.

It doesn't get any easier than that.

Simple technique which requires no identifying, bending, or adding of switches.....

1) Remove back door and locate credit unit.

2) Locate gear on credit unit. There are one or two pegs that operate the counter 'zero' and 'full' switches. Remove the one with the screwdriver slot and drop it in the coin box.

3) Poke the plunger on the big coil until 25 credits show in the window.

4) Stick a small piece of plastic tubing on the remaining credit gear peg.

5) Put the door back.

When the counter gets down to around 17 the tubing fouls on the rewind spring and the credit unit will decrement no further.

DSC02099 (resized).jpg

I like the Penny Trick Clay describes.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/techfreeplay-setup-courtesy-of-the-us-mint#post-482089

Which part of that scrambles your face?

Seriously? You come up with a hack that jams the workings of the unit and you want to know what "scrambles my face?"

lol. Your recommended hack was to "bend the switch permanently", IIRC.

Anyone doesn't like mine can take a second to pluck that little scrap of tube off of there.

That's also the recommendation of Clay Harrell on his website, and I'd dare say that he's forgotten more about fixing games than either of us ever knew.

You also told the guy to remove the max credit peg, which if you run the game up far enough on credits will cause problems.

All you have to do with the switch to take it off free play is bend it back. I would dare say that this method is used by way more people to set free play than hacking up coin doors or jamming up the credit unit. But your game, your choice.

Don't blame Clay for your own lack of imagination.

The unit works fine with one peg - takes it a bit longer to get full, that's all. Your Gottlieb might be different there but let's just try to remember that the OP was asking about a Williams.

All you have to do with the switch to break it off is bend it back a few times. Hacking coin doors was the other guy and my credit unit isn't "jammed up" as you keep blithering. It works just peachy, in fact. It has merely lost the ability to count down past 17 for the time being. I just don't miss seeing those "little numbers". Is that such a problem?

The phrase "Don't knock it if ya ain't tried it" comes to mind.

The unit's ability to operate is jammed by the peg hitting up against the clock spring. It will try to operate but it can't because of that. If you want to keep hitting something against a spring under tension, you go right ahead. I've never broken a switch by adjusting it completely closed. You're not going keep bending it over and over in any case.

We'll never convince the other so let's just agree to disagree and let it go.

I see where you got confused. The peg isn't "Hitting against the spring under tension and jamming up". It is merely resting there. The step-down coil pulls the ratchet lever thingy, the wheel doesn't turn, and the poor dumb game doesn't even wonder why.

Go play with one and you'll see.

So you're trying to tell me that when you hit the start button, the game doesn't even try to decrement one credit? Nothing at all happens? Not buying that. The gears are stopped from turning by the peg hitting against the clock spring. When the step down coil pulls in, that in turn will move the gear one step down, assuming nothing is in the way. Something is in the way. The peg isn't resting there and not trying to move. That's not possible.

Whatever you want to do, I'm not screwing up a game with that modification. As I said before, let it go.

See. You still don't get how it works.

When the step down coil pulls in, it lifts the escapement, that in turn would allow the tension of the clock spring to move the gear.

It's the spring moving the gear, not the coil.

The peg is just resting there and not trying to move - it is after all just a peg.

I tried the tube on the credit peg on a Williams Big Deal pin today for free play like balzofsteel showed earlier and it worked perfect.