Hi,

I guess you are talking about the sub? There is no balance available AFAIK, so this will require some additional parts to solve.

Even though the solution is right to add more power to get it louder, the power handling ability of the speaker doesn't really matter for how loud it plays.

The stat in question is its sensitivity (or efficiency - how the speaker converts power into sound). The sensitivity is standardized to be measured in dB (how loud it plays) at 1W power measured in the distance of 1m. Usually you see this in a speaker's stats like this:

Sensitivity: 90dB

The higher the value, the louder the speaker. Increasing the volume by 3dB doubles the power needed.

If the new sub is playing lower than the original, than it is less efficient and you need more power. You can get a ready to use solution from Pinwoofer for $90.

Alternatively you could go the DIY route with a line signal converter
(e.g. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=sr_1_5)
and amp module
(e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Subwoofer-Amplifier-TPA3116D2-Amplifiers-subwoofer/dp/B01N0PXEN4/ref=sr_1_12_sspa)
costing between $20 - $100 intotal depending on the amp you buy.

lots of info on this thread

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-speaker-size-and-wiring-williams-system-11

jimy_speedt you can check out out our website at https://PinWoofer.com and we also have a PinSide store.

If you take that DIY route keep in mind that you'll get full-range audio to the cabinet speaker. Our solution gives you extended bass because our amplifier has a built in low-pass filter that will maximize power transfer from the sound board to your cabinet speaker. Our kits are fully tested, completely compatible with any pin, and worth the extra money because they take all of the guesswork out of the project.

There is also a thread called "New Amplified Subwoofer Kits by PinWoofer" where you can read about some of the success stories.

We can ship internationally - happy to give you a quote!

Thanks!

I would recommend posting a photograph of your cabinet speaker here, so I can be certain of your installation requirements.

Thanks!

Just keep in mind there's a big difference between making it sound good and overloading it with retarded overblown bass like those that stuff the trunk of their cars with amps and subwoofers. Please don't do that. The speaker power handling for consumer stuff "80 watt speaker" means very little, the idea is that consumers do not understand the meaning of power ratings anyway so power ratings presented to them are usually tweaked for marketing purposes. I have a vintage Luxman receiver that puts out a very clean 33w per channel and it sounds wayyyy better than these ridiculous car systems.

A sensitivity of 90dB is above average and rather good. Above 90dB is excellent.

I doubt that the original cabinet speaker was playing louder.

Of course you’ll get it louder with PinWoofer or a DIY amp solution. But I wouldn’t expect too much true “Boom” with the current setup in this machine (of course that is also a matter of perspective).
It will result in a quite dominant mid-high bass dominating the mix without any depth or sub bass. Some people like that, but it’ll sound quite unnatural.

A true and integrated “Boom” would require a bit more work like balancing the subbass (EQ), matching the signal to the back box and playing position (SPL mic or better REW and a calibrated mic), a bigger woofer or even array of woofers.

jimy_speedt you will get a nice bass boost on that title with the amp only option and using that speaker, and I am confident that the results will exceed your expectations. I've done many of these with 6" speakers and the boost is surprising.

However, let me highlight that for $18 USD more you can get one of our 6" dual voice coil speakers included as a kit with the amplifier, which means you have effectively two speakers in one and are able to utilize both of the amplifier channels. It makes a difference.

Either way I'm here for you and let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Thanks!

Note that the LPF -3dB cutoff is ~178Hz so the amp is delivered and reproduces mostly low bass. Sure, a larger cone will reproduce the lower tones more efficently but the 6" will be quite effective in creating a nice rich bass tapestry and will greatly improve the sound. Let's see where jimy_speedt goes with this and get his feedback.

Thanks for your comments - much appreciated.

FResponse (resized).png

You are right. I am not really concerned about the amp. Probably I am overcomplicating, it's a good speaker, but it lacks bass.
The dynavox drops steep below 70Hz and there is not that much jimy_speedt could do about it in the pin cabinet (beside probably EQing the signal).

I agree that it most likely will exceed his expectations, but with his speaker he will be ca. 6-7dB under the 6" Pyles at 50Hz. Looks like a quite audible difference to me. Not everybody is as crazy to get a good 30Hz, but the dynavox looks like it would need some support for lower bass frequencies.

dynvox DY166-9A 4Ohm (resized).png