(Topic ID: 294504)

Sega Goldeneye no +20v issue / magnet blowing fuse

By DrGonzo

2 years ago


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  • 23 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by arisel
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#1 2 years ago

I'm new to the owning/maintenance side of pins, so I need some much appreciated help. Just bought a Sega Goldeneye and found out that all things running +20v doesn't work, which is all low-power coils and flashers from what I can tell.

- LED for +20v is not lit.
- Tested fuses (F7 seems to be the one for 20v), all OK.
- Tested the bridge rectifier (BRDG 2), seems OK.

Any ideas for a newbie? Thanks!

#2 2 years ago

When your coin door is closed, does the fuse blow, or 20vdc led come on ?

Bridge rectifier could be faulty.

#3 2 years ago

Got 16vac across pins 6 and 7 on J17 ?

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#4 2 years ago

Thanks for your answers!

@chad: When the coin door is closed the 20vdc led does not come on. Also no fuses are blown.

@zaza: 16vac not 20? I will check this later today though!

#5 2 years ago

Update: OK so I found where the problem was. I had a closer look at the F7 fuse holder and could see that the surface of the inside was dirty and somewhat burnt. So I took some sandpaper and scrubbed it off. Now my +20v works! Sometimes the simple solutions…

But.. now there’s instead an issue with my +50v. F21 blows at startup everytime. I’m thinking that the rectifier bridge BRDG1 needs to be replaced. Can I simply solder a new one in place? I bought a replacement ”GBPC3508”. Should be OK?

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from DrGonzo:

F21 blows at startup everytime. I’m thinking that the rectifier bridge BRDG1 needs to be replaced.

When BRDG1 is bad, fuse F6 would blow, not F21.
In the manual page 24, you will find a chart which coils are connected to J10-4/5 ( actually coils #1-#16)

#7 2 years ago

So the problem lies in one of those coils then I guess. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction! Am I looking for a faulty coil, bad connection or something like that?

#8 2 years ago

Faulty coil or driver (Q1-Q16) most likely. Or a short to ground. Something like that.

#9 2 years ago

Checked coils and drivers, all seem OK. Thanks for guiding me!

After some testing it’s now clear to me that F21 does in fact not blow on startup, but when I do the satellite test / the satellite is active in gameplay. Not sure if this was the case from the beginning or not.

However, I found the Service Bulletin No84 online somewhere where they suggest a rewire of the satellite magnet processor board 50v to the unused F20. I guess I will have to try that. Or could it be anything else?

It looks like other people had similar issues (w/o solution from what I can tell):
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sega-goldeneye-magnet-problemhelp-needed

#10 2 years ago

Rewired and no success… Except that now the new, previously unused, F20 blows instead. Something faulty on the magnet processor board?

Edit: Both LEDs are not lit when power is on...

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#11 2 years ago

The magnet processor board has 2 identical circuits that drive the magnet coils.
You could compare the components with each other using a multimeter. Start with the large transistors.

#12 2 years ago

Did some readings with my DMM and got mostly identical readings, sometimes in the ballpark. I’m not sure what the readings should be however… I’ve been looking at the diagram in the manual, but that doesn’t make much sense to me unfortunately.

But… I tried and unplug the molex connectors for both magnets. Did the magnet test under Diagnostics / Goldeneye Specific and the fuse did not blow this time. Would this indicate that there’s an issue closer to either one of the magnets instead and not the magnet processor board?

Edit: I’ve measured both magnets and they seems healthy.

#13 2 years ago

The Sega magnet boards used in GoldenEye and Twister are a nightmare... I got a repro board from mypinballs.com based on very good reviews here on Pinside, installed it and never had any problems again

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from dezaanster:

The Sega magnet boards used in GoldenEye and Twister are a nightmare... I got a repro board from mypinballs.com based on very good reviews here on Pinside, installed it and never had any problems again

I’m on the waiting list for one, but it’s unclear when a new batch will be made.

So until then…

#15 2 years ago

Okey did a lot of testing. Both MAG1 and MAG2 works for like 2 seconds if only one of them is connected to the mag processor board, doesn’t matter which one. If both is connected at the same time however, the fuse will blow at once when activated (and not even last for 2 seconds).

Also, the magnet feels stronger than I think it should be. I did measure the magnet coils and they are OK.

So both sides of the mag processor card are either faulty or the issue lies somewhere else.

Any ideas?

#16 2 years ago

So I ordered a new magnet processor board from Marcos. Put it in for test and suddenly both of my flippers don’t work (they register but no power). ”5 balls missing message” from the DMD and the trough up-kicker is weak, it takes a few times before the ball pops out.

And also the magnets still don’t work. The only good thing is that the fuse don’t blow!

ANY ideas welcome?

#17 2 years ago

Fuse F6 for the ac-side of BRDG1 blown ?

Check both magnet coils, are they burnt ?

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

Fuse F6 for the ac-side of BRDG1 blown ?
Check both magnet coils, are they burnt ?

Thank you for your reply!
All fuses tested with DMM and they’re good. No burnt coils from what I can tell.

Also, Is should add, I’ve had success with both flippers in the Dr. Pinball test menu. Then they suddenly work! But not in the ”coil” test or in gameplay…

#19 2 years ago

maybe in this case try putting in a tad higher fuse, had problems with my gnr magnets blowing fuses and rob anthony suggested i go 1/2 amp higher than rated. Problem solved still ok 4 yrs later.

#20 2 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

maybe in this case try putting in a tad higher fuse, had problems with my gnr magnets blowing fuses and rob anthony suggested i go 1/2 amp higher than rated. Problem solved still ok 4 yrs later.

With the new magnet board, the fuse doesn’t blow anymore. But the magnets still don’t work.

#21 2 years ago

Okay, let’s change that. Put the old EPROM in the new card and the magnets work, for 2 seconds again then the fuse blows! What is going on??

Is it possible that BRDG1 is shorted or something like that?

#22 2 years ago

So both magnets cause one of three fuses to blow (+50v in backbox or one of two under the PF).

- All fuses OK when testing
- Magnet coils OK
- New magnet processor board (with the old IC chip)

What could be the cause of this? Could a bad IC chip be the culprit? Or if one of the wires to either one of the magnets is connected in a wrong way/damaged?

Anyone? I appreciate all suggestions!

3 weeks later
#23 2 years ago
Quoted from DrGonzo:

Anyone? I appreciate all suggestions!

Let me try

I had similar issues, even after using the repro board. For me it came down mostly to fixing the playfield and fine-tuning the iron cores of the magnets. I *guess* the reasoning behind this is that with a uneven playfield, the magnet often is activated twice in a row, thus blowing the fuses.

- check for *any* abrasion between the flippers: anything not 100% even might cause issues
- clearcoating and sanding this down to 1200 did do the trick for me
- for the satellite, the iron core positioning isn't that tricky: if it works, it's fine. just take care that the nut is at least hand-tightened well.
- for the thrust magnet between the flippers, tuning did take quite some time for me: I started with inserting the core fully (without any force: don't bend the bracket with which the assembly is attached to the playfiled) minus half a turn, and then moved it endlessly by just a degree or two, or fractions thereof.
- (if you already have the repro board: change the fuse next to the thrust magnet to 4A slow-blow)

End result for me:

- ball is saved perfectly, even when using the "Eject or die"-Feature
- ball is thrusted up to the left guard bank without activating it's targets.
- no fuses blown regularly (it still might happen once every few months)

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