Hi guys,

Got a batman where the display is completely fokt. One of the shift register ic's is burnt down leaving a massive burnspot on the pcb which renders it to a total loss. So it's time for a new display.

There are several options:

- color DMD (expensive and only available in led)
- smart DMD (needs a lot of work and I'm looking for a plug and play option)
- Pinball SP
- PIN2DMD

Both Pinball SP as PIN2DMD are plug and play. What I want to know is if one of both or maybe both have colorization files available for Sega Batman or that I need to add some colorization myself. Second question is which option is more user friendly to colorize and/or to setup.

Thanks!

Nope. Sega large ones. 192*64

I contacted them already but I am wondering which setup will cost me the least effort and maybe has some colorisation files available. The optimum situation is that i can plug in the new display and can add some sort of colorisation file for that setup.

The difference in cost between the two is marginal.

Also I am wondering which setup has been adopted better, as in: which has a longer life cycle.

Going to try to solder the new chip myself. Six traces are burnt down so I need to recreate that somehow.
The image:

Red = output lines, all intact
Yellow = Data in/out, all intact
Green = not connected
Black = need to be re-created.

Pin 21 = NC, nothing to do here
Pin 22 = CLK
Pin 23 = GND
Pin 24 = VPP (high voltage, max 80V)
Pin 25 = VDD (5 volt)
Pin 26 = Latch enable

So, bend pins 22 to 26 over to extend the chip and SMD solder the rest like normal. Then connect the pins to the same pins of an adjecent chip. GND and +5V will be connected to the powersupply part of the display pcb.

Wish me luck!

bfdisplaychip2 (resized).jpg

Repair is done, IC has been soldered on with a normal soldering iron, must say that is wasn't easy but doable.
The result is shown in the second picture.

So, what's next? The driver ic's are cascaded, meaning that the data goes to the first IC and from there further to the second. So IC 1 recieves the data in the data input and sends it via data output to the second IC's data input.

There are 6 ic's mounted, each with 32 outputs in the raster (hence the 192 lines). The first two are working fine (the second ic is the one I replaced meaning my work is done correctly).

Section 3 is blank, sections 4 to 6 are all "on". This tells me that the 3rd ic in the cascade is defective.
6F05EDB5-522D-411A-A744-233DCD789E1D (resized).jpeg365DF8D6-FF7B-455E-8110-44B7A75FFE12 (resized).jpeg

And succes.

Replaced the next ic and booom, a working display. Not the most neat job I delivered but hey, given the circumstamces.
01559DB7-F718-48F0-89BA-848BCBE5B5A8 (resized).jpeg217F1ECA-D5CE-480C-B7EC-67C6E3E3C962 (resized).jpeg5919A458-C5C7-425D-A1E7-4B30DACE9783 (resized).jpeg

Please post some more pics of your display. What is the brand? Dale, cherry or vishay?

I think we can narrow it down with some effort.

Thanks, you’re making me feel humble.

I’m a pin repair guy and I hate it when things go to waste. I wrote off this display so there was only something to gain here, the ic's were bought in China for like 10 euro's per 5. I wasted 2 of them in the process but so glad this turned out the way I wanted it to turn out. Spent more than four hours on the display but getting it back alive again was totally worth it.

Looks like it's just an 7805 +5 volt power regulator. Probably you can replace it with a normal 7805.

A normal 7805.has 3 legs, Vin (pin 1), ground (pin 2) and Vout (pin 3).

As G-P-E stated the SMD variant of that regulator has 8 pins, 2 of them are not connected, 1 Vin, 1 Vout and 4 ground pins.
If I were you I would rebuild the burnt section with normal components, replace the resistor and the zener diode and see if this solvesnthe issue. Then you can see if SMD is doable with the damage on the board.

Good luck. Keep us in the loop.