No responses to my SW display issue, but no worries, let's try something else that makes the display issue take a back seat:

My Sega Star Wars Trilogy has picked up an annoying fault. Turn it on, get the "bloop", playfield lights come on, then after a couple of second, before anything else happens, the relay on the I/O Power Driver Board clicks, LED 204 comes on and stays on and the playfield lights die. Nothing else happens. All LEDs on the I/O and CPU/Sound board are lit so I have the power where I need it and it tests at a fraction over 5v where on the test point.

I've removed the various ROM modules and given them and their sockets a visual inspection and all appears OK. Tests in bridge rectifier 21 showed something was amiss so I replaced it only to find out when off the board it tested fine :/ I can't see where the issue is and there is very little I can find online to point me where to look next. Any ideas?

Thanks Scoot. I did remove and reseat the display ROM in order to give the pins a light clean and check over but it didn't help, unfortunately. I've checked all pins on all ROMS and the CPU and all look good. I've checked continuity from each pin to the board to discount fractures and they're all good. Can ROMs just corrupt over time or is that unusual? I think I need to get myself a spare set of ROMs and a CPU just so I can swap them out to eliminate them in this situation and (no doubt to follow!) other situations.

I'm beginning to think this may be a way forward. How's best to do that? Individually reflowing each point? I had a laptop that had a known problem with solder joins facturing on the motherboard. Did some research and ended up wrapping it in tin foil and placing it in the oven at about 180 degrees celsius for 15 mins. Left it cool, rebuilt the laptop and it worked perfectly. Is this a reasonable approach to the CPU board? Not sure it would be a good idea with the I/O board because of things like the relay which may not like 180 degrees.

Thanks again. Top tips. Hopefully I'll be able to report back when I get a few hours to mess about with it again.

Whats the part number for the backbox hinge bolt and the cabinet hinge pivot bushing? Or does anyone know the dimension? (Sega Baywatch)

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Just got a beautiful Maverick, but the paddle wheel is sticking every now and again (especially when bringing up a pinball). Does anybody know if this needs to be lubricated, or if there is a common issue that might cause this? I was going to dismantle everything and poke around, but thought I'd check in to see if anybody has experienced the sticking before I get in there.

Test the bridge rectifiers. My Baywatch had a reset issue that was caused by a bad BR. I've had a few Segas that had issued caused by a bad BR.

By "playfield lights" do you mean everything, just GI, or just inserts? I had a similar thing happen on my Batman forever as I was using the Xpin power board from my Jurassic Park. I could play a game without the GI and it turns out the fuse that controls GI had weak clips so the fuse was just sitting there but it looked to be firmly inserted. I just happened to squeeze the clips together and everything was back to normal. It's weird because I've never messed with that fuse.

I am having a little issue with some of my GI LEDs not staying on. I can push on them and they will turn on but if left alone they are either fully off or very dully lite. Anyone else come across this on any of their sega cabinets? Should I reflow the solder on the sockets or should I just replace the socket all together? Maybe something else needs rework?

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A different issue on my X files is the opto lights in front of the filing cabinet need rework. Anyone know what I need to replace to have them all on just light the one of the right

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Have you tried cleaning the sockets, sometimes they get corroded and you get a poor connection.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-clean-old-4447-lamp-sockets

Also, try pulling the springs up. Sometimes that works for me.

Just a follow up from my previous post on my SW Trilogy issues:

Isolated the fault to the CN6 circuit. If you unplug CN6 (flipper switches, memory protect switch and the three service/diagnostic door mounted buttons) it starts up pretty much as normal and goes into attract mode. However, hit the start button and you get no new game or ball loaded and the “Negative” sound bite each time you press is until finally you get Vader saying “You have failed me for the last time”. Amusing but not helpful! Subsequent presses of the start button produce nothing.

I’ve checked continuity from each of the pins on the CN6 plug to the flippers and the door service/diagnostic switches and even the memory protection switch and all appears well. Checked the flipper buttons and they test good.

Had a repair guy out who brought a new board with him and that gave the exact same results so it’s fair to say there’s not fault in the board, I think.

I’ve exhausted all ideas as to what it could be. If CN6 is somehow causing the original fault then how can all the items on that circuit be testing good?

Picking up Frankenstein today my first pin. Jiust hope I don’t regret getting a Sega pinball everyone says its great and lots of fun and Sega pins are not underrated. So count me in.

https://mailchi.mp/371668793f88/colordmd-game-83-new-for-xled-it-is-alive?fbclid=IwAR2DLPa-TcYQeAAd_dSCm-LbZahcgftgF6qK0A32MTuyKz-GbXpheRrLTmA 2018-12-17 06_43_36-Pinball Enthusiasts - Internet Explorer (resized).png

Wow, good for him! I started that game back in September and the video scenes broke me. Looks like we had similar palette choices and that always makes me feel better about the picks I made. Can't wait to see some videos of it in action.

http://vpuniverse.com/forums/topic/3702-mary-shelleys-frankenstein/

Hi all,
Currently have a Twister that I've had for a couple years, the spinning disc is not spinning, which seems to be a common problem.

One solution was to replace the main ROM, which I'm finally getting around to replacing. I initially had trouble pulling out the existing ROM chips which is why I took so long to replace as I didn't want to break anything. Finally was able to figure out how to extract existing chips without causing damage.

Here are the chips I got:
TWISTER (SEGA) EPROM U210 GAME A4.05
TWISTER (SEGA) EPROM ROM0 DISPLAY A4.00

I replaced both in the game, but when I turned back on on game doesn't appear to boot. PF Lights come on, but game doesn't start. Removed the new main ROM (but left display) and replaced with original, and game booted after asking me to open door.

Question 1: Is there something I should be doing to help it boot with new ROM chip, or is it missing something else that needs to be added for the new ROM chip to work?

Question 2: Aside from display working as expected, how can I check that updated ROM is functioning properly, what has changed?

Any advice appreciated.
Thanks.

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At any time did you turn the game on with the game ROM 4.05 in upside down in the IC socket? If so, that would damage it.

Can you post a picture of the MPU board?

Thanks PM,
I'll try to post a picture tonight.

Regarding the chip, I don't believe I installed it incorrectly, I was aware of the notch, but I can't definitively say I didn't. Maybe I'll order a new chip to be sure, only $10. Should I grab new sound chips as well? I'm assuming there is a breakdown somewhere showing what changes/fixes are in each ROMset?

Thanks,

If you are referring to the phrase cutting out when you turn on the game, I am sure that is normal from what I remember when I had my game.

If you purchased the game ROM from someone, I would message them about it. They may send another without charging you. Testing it in a game or in an Eprom programmer would be only 2 ways to test it.

I never had an issue with my spinning disc, so I may not be of help there. I will have to check the manual and see what turns it on.

Hi guys I hope you can help me on this one ...I'm looking for all the boards for a Sega space jam pinball ...any help would be appreciated.... thanks

I’m in I just bought a MSF and it’s pretty fun and it’s my first pin. Had a few issues and iced them all surprisingly you can still get parts. Even fixed the monsters head. May have to get another Sega since they aren’t outrageously priced. Stern

Congrats. You'll like it even more with a ColorDMD.

Yes I have seen that but want to put in a LED kit first any ideas which is the best LED kit to buy and where?

All personal pref. I like the coin taker kits, but maybe you want to make your own with colors or white?

I like choosing my own color LEDs from Comet. Cool or warm white LEDs in the GI depending on the game and colored non-ghosting LEDs for the inserts.

I bought the same thing, helped declownpuke my TMNT

Anyone know a source for the sega dop target 2 pin connectors? .100 IDC I believe... I can't seem to find them anywhere :/

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Im not positive of where you can buy them. But I do know I have used wire snips to cut longer ones (to sizeish.) may not look factory but gets the same desired effect.

I don't know where to get the original connectors but the female 2 pin jst connectors fit. I have some from an ebay order error, if you need them just send me a pm and I can mail you some.

Ebay listing: https://tinyurl.com/yct7gpjl

There's a picture of the fit here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/south-park-club-come-on-in/page/7#post-4073595

thanks for the reply, i have a couple molex from GPE coming, i am going to see if they fit and if I can try to put 2 wires into one connector. Surprising this was never reprod, seems easy enough.

I noticed that some machines have the production numbers while others do not. IPDB did not have numbers either, is there a good place to get an estimate for these machines? SST in particular.

Thanks

I'd like to know for Baywatch too out of curiosity. I've always heard 2500 but nothing concrete.

Anyone know the point of these two caps? On the bottom of the large sega dmd driver board?

While on the subject of this board, what was the purpose of the unpopulated caps, large diodes and what looks to be another 5v connector?

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Does anyone need a new ID4 Alien Head?

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Very happy to finally join the club! Picked up a lost world for a great price, and I have to say I am really enjoying it! Put some led strips in (trough, scoop, shooter lane, and backboard) and in my opinion, they look amazing. I would also highly recommend the led pop bumper rings from comet. The way they fade in and out with an LED OCD board is amazing. For some reason, the drop target can’t drop itself, so I have the snagger disabled. I suspect it is the coil.

Going on a bit of a Sega streak. Going to be picking up a LiS and an XF here pretty soon. Will post pics!

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what is is the part number for the pop bumper rings

https://www.cometpinball.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=BMPRING

The snagger drop target and snagger itself are a main and common issue with these. I’ve made a club thread here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lost-world-jurassic-park-club

Here’s one of my snagger issues
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lwjp-switch-and-coil-issue

You’ll have to dive in and check it out! Hopefully it’s easy like a wire came off. Otherwise it honestly isn’t that bad to redo but troubleshooting it is hard since so many actions require certain conditions

Awesome, thanks! I’ll take a look at that!

Added a Lost in Space and X Files to the collection!
Putting a flipper fidelity speaker upgrade in the X Files.
Quick question, is it normal for X Files to take a couple tries to boot up? Everything works fine, it just takes 1 or 2 extra times to boot.

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Got one the wife loves it.

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Had a LIS for s week , then parted with her, diddnt rock my boat.
But man i freaking LOVE my Sega Baywatch!!!
Realy realy underrated game
Easely a top 20 pin!