(Topic ID: 220515)

Sega board blowing F23

By Eddie

5 years ago


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  • 19 posts
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  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Eddie
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#1 5 years ago

Just got a Southpark in the shop and it was DOA many fuses blown on the PDB board.

Tested the Bridges and all appear perfect.

Nothing burned on the board no traces burned etc Board looks like new.

Installing the power connectors to the board, F23 5v logic blows with nothing connected to the board

Any Ideas? Thanks.

#2 5 years ago

F23 fuses BRDG21.
It's probable that BRDG21 is shorted.
Remember, diode testing a bridge can pass, but the bridge can still be shorted.
I'd replace that bridge. Those are boogers to get off...you almost need 3 irons and 4 hands.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#3 5 years ago

I usually cut the legs under the BR if there is enough room to reach under them.

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

I usually cut the legs under the BR if there is enough room to reach under them.

I’d love to be able to do this on WhiteStar and Data East and WMS System 11 power supplies. But those PS boards use the spade connector type BR. They suck to get off cleanly. I literally use three irons.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#5 5 years ago

I have succesfully cut off several spade connector type BR. Not an easy task since the leads are thick.

#6 5 years ago

Follow up so far I did replace the BR21 even thou the stock appeared to test good.

It was very easy to remove I had no issues I always cut the legs on the spade type legs.

I then use locking forceps to hold the tabs while heating and they slide right out.

I use the Hakko to clear out the solder. I then clean everything with alcohol.

With that said I discovered that the Display power board was connected and once disconnected the fuse no longer blew ugh it was probably that to begin with.

I now have 20 v however there is no blanking signal and the flashers are all locked on when the coin door is closed

The toilet lid was also locked on as it went up (along with the flashers) when the coindoor was closed

I replaced Q5 the toilet driver and the toilet lid stays put.

Is it possible that all the flasher drives are shorted?

Why is there no blanking signal?

Something must have happened to cause all of these issues along with the display power board causing fuses to blow.

So as it stands I have flashers locked on, No display and no Blanking so no booting up.

#7 5 years ago

Have everything connected properly, especially that ribbon cables are not plugged in one row off? Can you take a picture of both the CPU and driver boards with power on ?

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Have everything connected properly, especially that ribbon cables are not plugged in one row off? Can you take a picture of both the CPU and driver boards with power on ?

While taking the pics of the boards I left the flasher connector plugged in duh it blew the 20v line and now Q5 is shorted again.

In the pics it appears that the Blanking LED is lit but it is not its a reflection of the fluorescent lamp ,Which I should have removed for the pics.

Last pic is with coindoor closed High Voltage switch depressed.

Connectors are not the issue something caused this board and maybe the CPU to be corrupted.

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#9 5 years ago

WhiteStar systems don't specifically have a "blanking" signal in the same sense that WMS System 11 (for instance) does. System 11 games "nand" the blanking signal in the digital logic to turn off coils, etc when blanking is high.

WhiteStar systems use a periodic pulse to the lamp matrix to also reset a watchdog timer (DS1210) on the driver board and subsequently on the CPU board.

BTW...nice job of removal on Q5.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from Eddie:

Why is there no blanking signal?
Something must have happened to cause all of these issues along with the display power board causing fuses to blow.
So as it stands I have flashers locked on, No display and no Blanking so no booting up.

Agree with Chris, the "Blanking" LED is actually an indication of the I/O board Reset signal.

The I/O board reset signal is created by U210 a DS1232 reset controller. There are 2, one on the CPU board and one on the driver board. The CPU board Reset signal can hold the I/O board reset controller in a reset state. To exit the reset state on the I/O board (and clear the blanking LED on the I/O board), the reset controller needs stable 5V, lack of a reset signal from the CPU board and periodic triggering by one of the lamp matrix returns.

What is the state of LED L200 on the CPU board? If the CPU is working, this should light solid on. If that is not lit, you need to look at why the CPU is not running and should ignore the "blanking" LED on the I/O board until you resolve the CPU reset issue.

#11 5 years ago

Ok the owner sent another PDB board from a working machine .

The Blanking Led Now Blinks until you connect J16 then it goes out.

Nothing comes on but GI so the machine is still not booting

Without J16 plugged there are some garbled but non moving pixels on the display where as before the display didnt do anything with the original board

If I disconnect the DMD board the blanking remains out with j16 connected.

If all connectors are connected and the High voltage switch is depressed in the coin door nothing locks on as it did before.

No fuses blowing.

#12 5 years ago

I'm not sure what you are testing by disconnecting J16. That removes 5V from all the other boards so nothing else is running. Not sure what that proves.

What is the state of LED L200 on the CPU board? If the CPU is working, this should light solid on. If that is not lit, you need to look at why the CPU is not running and should ignore the "blanking" LED on the I/O board until you resolve the CPU reset issue.

#13 5 years ago

LED 200 in the CPU is on.

I have no idea What removing J16 proves lol I was just saying that when it is removed, the Blanking on the I/0 board LED starts to blink something it did not do on the other board.

I was just informed that the machine was working when a tech dropped a screwdriver while working on a coil with the machine powered on and he saw an arc!

Thats all that I was told. Where the arc was, how big etc No info.

So this can lead to many board issues.

#14 5 years ago

Latest update client sent a spare CPU Game now boots up and plays but there are no sounds at all and the DMD is still DEAD Nada ,Kaput.

#15 5 years ago

Client just sent a new used DMD display and board and its power supply board.

Now I have a display and the game runs perfectly

However there are no sounds at all.

I do hear the speaker make a sound on power up so it is getting power aside of that nothing any tips?

If the chips were blown for the sounds in South Park could I install the chips from the donor board A Viper Night Drivin to see if I would get anything?

#16 5 years ago
Quoted from Eddie:

If the chips were blown for the sounds in South Park could I install the chips from the donor board A Viper Night Drivin to see if I would get anything?

Yes. You can. You can also install the suspect ROMs into your VND to test them. Note the orientation of the notch.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#17 5 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Yes. You can. You can also install the suspect ROMs into your VND to test them. Note the orientation of the notch.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

The VND isint mine its the clients and its in another state and besides that all the VND boards are now in the South Park LOL

From what he remembered the sound was working in the VND before he had the boards removed, which is what led me to think that the SP chips got fried along with the rest of the SP boards.

Client wants to send the SP boards out for repairs. I repaired and replaced all that I could on the boards but I am not set up for full Board repair dont have the chips, test rigs etc.

#18 5 years ago

I can take care of WhiteStar boards if you'd like. See the contact link below.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

I can take care of WhiteStar boards if you'd like. See the contact link below.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

I know you do its not up to me its up to the client and what he wants.

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