Hmmmm, not to much going on here, I wonder what's going on.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:maybe he's just so busy cranking them out for us.
That would be nice. Hey Captain did you get one of beatmasters gun plate light ups? He only made a few.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:nope, don't even know what you are talking about.
Here's a picture of it.The picture is not very good but it's a nice bright blue.
blue, looks purple. I bet it could be any color you wanted. Looks good. Is it stable? gun still feel solid....well as solid as it can anyway
Quoted from CaptainNeo:blue, looks purple. I bet it could be any color you wanted. Looks good. Is it stable? gun still feel solid....well as solid as it can anyway
Yeah I know but it's blue.
I think he only made blue, you'd have to ask.
Yes it's stable, the gun, as you know is the weak point.
I found clear plastic bolts and will use them to hold the gun plate on and I made a box with led pads in it to put inside the cab behind the bolts to light them up. So the 6 bolt heads will light up blue also. I may only need one led pad.
Gonna look really cool when I put my leg light-ups on too.
I just swapped out the 6 bolts and installed the clear plastic bolts and they did just what I thought. As they went through the blue lit plastic they picked up and transfered light to the bolt head. I may not need the box I made from the above post, the bolt heads light up just fine without it.
If they get printed, I am in for one as long as I have the game. It may be on the selling block soon....have my eye on another......
In the final design stages, expect to be testing some materials over the next two weeks and sourcing the switch/spring for the trigger. Plan to have pricing in about 3 weeks, and I will also include a metal option. I'm thinking of testing a painted version as well, but concerned about wear- Paul
just a quick update, This is in ABS (the stuff Lego's are made of), much stronger than the original plastic they used. I've tested for fit and feel and works well. I've ordered switches, still sourcing Molex connectors. Also working on a jig to make the trigger springs. Plan to get a price on Metal this week. For the screws i'm thinking Torx, just in case it's on location (any objections?). and yes the screws will be black.
-Paul
Update on pricing. Still finalizing material options. Almost everyone has ask for Metal. Even with all the new materials that are coming out every day metal is just too expensive (like $2K range), about the cheapest is a Nylon/Aluminum option but it would still come in around $1400. So I'm looking at ABS (the picture above) this is much stronger than the original BTW (there's a lip where the two halves meet and 5 bolts that go all the way through and it's connected to a thick base plate). There's also another material option - Vero for polyjet, price is slightly more, slightly stronger better elongation and detail. I'm checking into clear/opaque "glow" option also. It's been a struggle to get this under $500, but i'm working hard to make that happen. It takes over a day to print SLS on industrial machines, i'm going to fire up a full print on my FDM which may take longer as there will be more cleanup. The only part left to source or make is the spring and to get final pricing on printing. - Paul
Paul,
The one you pictured in ABS... Is that one coming in around $500, or would that be less? I think many, including me, wanted metal, but it sounds like it may not be practical.
yes the one pictured is ABS at $500, but i'm working to do better (one company quoted $870 to print this in ABS which is prohibitive). I can do polishing but it increases the price another $75 and I like the feel of it as it is.
Pricing and ready to start production!
Black ABS as pictured above (includes, black mounting bolts for cabinet) $360 + $5 if you want the molex connector .vs. exposed wires. Shipping is $15 if in US. I have to include sales tax .0825% if it ships to a Texas Address. Caveat-This price is based on getting 20 orders for black, if there are less orders then the price will increase from $50-$115 each. I will let you know before I place the first order, hopefully we can sign up 20 people by June1st (it takes 2-3 days to print 2 of these, so first paid first served.) If we don't met the threshold then I can refund those that want out. I most likely will cut the orders off if/when we hit 50 as I'm pretty sure I'll tire of building wiring harnesses by then.
Clear Polycarb (see picture of example material attached). You should be able to light from inside should that be a desire, but i'm not pursing that yet.(so no guarantees of resulting look and feel). $477.50 + $5 if you want the molex connector .vs. exposed wires. Shipping is $15 if in US. I have to include sales tax .0825% if it ships to a Texas Address. This will ship with black bolts/screws.
paypal to pablomck AT gmail dot com.
Don't clean these with Acetone or any harsh abrasives.
Will there be potential for future runs? I'm quite interested, but between my BF not being in my possession and my circumstances meaning that I'm about the poorest that I can be at the moment (buying a house... tomorrow!), I don't think I can be in now. Would have to figure out if it makes sense for me to be in for the future...if that's an option...
So that's the final result? how bad are the print lines in person? Does it feel solid? would love to test this out on the feel. Metal would have been ideal, but what can you do.
if we get 2, is shipping still $15?
yes, I can get 2 in the $15 box. it feels much stronger than the original, you can't indent it with the force of your hand. it does have a texture, but I like the feel surprisingly better than the original.
Dang that clear/frosted one would be tits lit up, how many of those do you need orders for? I don't need the 6 mounting bolts (mine are clear) or the Molex plug so how much for a black one? How strong is the polycarb compared to the ABS?
Quoted from MustangPaul:Dang that clear/frosted one would be tits lit up, how many of those do you need orders for? I don't need the 6 mounting bolts (mine are clear) or the Molex plug so how much for a black one? How strong is the polycarb compared to the ABS?
I can order quantity 1 on the clear (i.e., there's no savings on those.) Poly carb is a little stronger, but lower heat specs. not something that should be a concern on a pinball machine inside (i.e., 185F). ABS Black without Molex is $375 with shipping for St. Paul. Clear is $492.5 with shipping.
Quoted from Pablomck:I can order quantity 1 on the clear (i.e., there's no savings on those.) Poly carb is a little stronger, but lower heat specs. not something that should be a concern on a pinball machine inside (i.e., 185F). ABS Black without Molex is $375 with shipping for St. Paul. Clear is $492.5 with shipping.
How soon would I get a clear one if I ordered today? It would be a frosted look clear right? No Molex connector.
Quoted from MustangPaul:How soon would I get a clear one if I ordered today? It would be a frosted look clear right? No Molex connector.
2 weeks at the earliest but could take 3 weeks.
-Paul
Quoted from Pablomck:2 weeks at the earliest but could take 3 weeks.
-Paul
What about my second question.
Quoted from Pablomck:yes it's "frosted like" not completely clear.
Thanks, so all I do is switch my trigger, switch and spring to your gun handle correct. Sorry for all the questions.
are you printing these yourself or having someone else print them?
not trying to be negative but I don't understand how it costs $380~500 to 3D print something... a roll of ABS filament is like $25 and a 3D printer can be had for under $1000... you could sell 6 of these at $200 and cover the cost of the materials and printer and then you have your own 3d printer to make whatever you want
Quoted from flecom:are you printing these yourself or having someone else print them?
not trying to be negative but I don't understand how it costs $380~500 to 3D print something... a roll of ABS filament is like $25 and a 3D printer can be had for under $1000... you could sell 6 of these at $200 and cover the cost of the materials and printer and then you have your own 3d printer to make whatever you want
yes, that's what most people think. printing something this size won't fit on most FDM printers. I happen to have a more expensive Type A, that can accommodate it, so that was my original plan. However, here are the problems. I want to print at a higher density and resolution for strength and finish. When you print something that large it cools before you loop around (a problem), send problem even with a raft it won't stick consistently, so it's no fun when it takes a day or more to print something this big and then you print messes up and you have to start all over again. Another issue is supports. If you have one head, which most do, then you are printing supports. On a piece this big a real PITA to cut away. So the options are $30K printer that can do two materials (so you can wash support material away) or SLS. either way there are some economy's with doing more at the same time. no change of material and you can print as many that will fit at once, thus saving time. That doesn't even figure the time in high end scanning and throwing away cause just too many holes to close, and then starting from scratch with CAD (many hours of getting the splines just right). So with current services prices this gun is prices as cheap as I can get it., with really no mark up (go check out the prices yourself). Hopefully this will continue to come down in price, so if you don't need it now, wait it out.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Thanks, so all I do is switch my trigger, switch and spring to your gun handle correct. Sorry for all the questions.
If you have an existing gun and you want to assemble and reuse your switch, spring, bolts and wiring harness). let me know and i'll knock off $25. May price includes plug and play (new switch, spring, bolts and wiring harness, but happy to reuse what you have and you assemble.)
-Paul
Quoted from Pablomck:If you have an existing gun and you want to assemble and reuse your switch, spring, bolts and wiring harness). let me know and i'll knock off $25. May price includes plug and play (new switch, spring, bolts and wiring harness, but happy to reuse what you have and you assemble.)
-Paul
Thanks. Well plug-n-play would save me alot of bs so I'll take a clear one.
Quoted from Pablomck:yes, that's what most people think. printing something this size won't fit on most FDM printers. I happen to have a more expensive Type A, that can accommodate it, so that was my original plan. However, here are the problems. I want to print at a higher density and resolution for strength and finish. When you print something that large it cools before you loop around (a problem), send problem even with a raft it won't stick consistently, so it's no fun when it takes a day or more to print something this big and then you print messes up and you have to start all over again. Another issue is supports. If you have one head, which most do, then you are printing supports. On a piece this big a real PITA to cut away. So the options are $30K printer that can do two materials (so you can wash support material away) or SLS. either way there are some economy's with doing more at the same time. no change of material and you can print as many that will fit at once, thus saving time. That doesn't even figure the time in high end scanning and throwing away cause just too many holes to close, and then starting from scratch with CAD (many hours of getting the splines just right). So with current services prices this gun is prices as cheap as I can get it., with really no mark up (go check out the prices yourself). Hopefully this will continue to come down in price, so if you don't need it now, wait it out.
I know the services are expensive which is why I figured that you were going that route based on price...
but a friend of mine bought a dual head printer for much less than $30k... the ultimaker 2+ has dual heads, can do 8.78 x 8.78 x 8.07 in, 300mm/s and 0.02mm layers and is less than $3k
Quoted from Pablomck:final pictures, order goes out tomorrow.
Thanks
-Paul
Cool, thanks Paul. No more banging into that because you didn't see it. No I just have to figure out how to route the led strip inside it to light it up.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Cool, thanks Paul. No more banging into that because you didn't see it. No I just have to figure out how to route the led strip inside it to light it up.
Looking forward to seeing pictures of it on your machine and lighted!
Quoted from Pablomck:Looking forward to seeing pictures of it on your machine and lighted!
Me too. It'll take me a bit to figure out how to run the strip(s).
Quoted from pinballnut3:WOW paul WOW
You had no idea I was gonna mess with the game this bad when you sold it to me did ya Kris.
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