(Topic ID: 146360)

Sega Batman Forever Gun Handle - Making Replacement


By Pablomck

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 126 posts
  • 30 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by MustangPaul
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

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There are 126 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 3 years ago

I'm working on this and need to know the interest before I invest 100's more hours. I've run some test prints with PLA and it's more ridged than the original, but i'm going to investigate other material options as those prices have come down. It will be a complete replacement. Trying to keep the price between $175 and $300 each, depending on material and level of interest. Let me know if you want on the list.
-Paul

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#2 3 years ago

I hope you get enough interest to go forward with this project. Put me down for 2 handles.

#3 3 years ago

I'd be in for one.

Any chance of an H Channel too?

3 weeks later
#4 3 years ago

making progress, hoping to have ready by Texas Pinball Festival. Going to print in black and trying to find a matching green.

#5 3 years ago

Hey Paul, I'll take one also. The 2 screws that go into the left side of the grip only screw into plastic and are easy to strip and I was wondering if there was anything you could do about that.

#6 3 years ago

Hello Paul. I would be interested in one as well.

#7 3 years ago

It would be great if they were made out of metal that could be chromed, cnc machines can do wonderful things these days.

#8 3 years ago

Metal in black chrome might be "tits"! I think I have a prototype machine. It came from over seas. It has the Jurassic Park metal gun on it. I say it has saved me several gun breaks because I've smashed it several times with my hips and would have snapped that thing off. Let's see it in metal, if possible...

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from hd60609:

Metal in black chrome might be "tits"! I think I have a prototype machine. It came from over seas. It has the Jurassic Park metal gun on it. I say it has saved me several gun breaks because I've smashed it several times with my hips and would have snapped that thing off. Let's see it in metal, if possible...

Is it an actual Jurassic Park gun? I'm guessing that someone threw it on there after the fact, as it was a few years between JP and BF, but maybe not.

The only crappy thing about that JP gun is it sticks out so far, I keep accidentally pistol whipping myself with it when I bend down to get stuff. Had it happen to me today. Seriously.

#11 3 years ago

I have a NOS Sega Batman Forever Gun Handle that I would be willing to sell. If interested send me an offer.

#12 3 years ago

It is an actual JP gun (has the logo on it). I thought I read somewhere that a few machines had them put on as the plastic guns kept breaking off. If not, a vendor put this sucker on as mine has a Belgium sticker on the power box and was heavily routed when I got it. And "yes" it friggin hurts when I run into that thing. Glad it's solid metal or I'd have snapped mine off several times... the gun that is...

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

The only crappy thing about that JP gun is it sticks out so far, I keep accidentally pistol whipping myself with it when I bend down to get stuff. Had it happen to me today. Seriously.

"pistol whipping"....now that brings up some funny images. I hope it hasn't drawn any blood.

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

"pistol whipping"....now that brings up some funny images. I hope it hasn't drawn any blood.

I still have the bump on my head today. :-/

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

I still have the bump on my head today. :-/

No blood then......good.

#16 3 years ago

I was going to recast these in metal like JP's gun is. If you cast them in metal i'm in for one.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

I was going to recast these in metal like JP's gun is.

Why didn't you do it? Cost?

#18 3 years ago

I'm more interested in the metal, unless the plastic one is pretty tough...

#19 3 years ago

because I didn't have enough interest. Plus I need to find a source for metal casting.

#20 3 years ago

If we had an order of around 50, I could get them cast in aluminum.

The form would need to be in 2 halves.

But, remember that aluminum shrinks after casting, so the form needs to be oversized ( I seem to remember the model needs to be oversized 1.12) and because it would be a sand casting, you loose a little of the dimensions to polishing.....

#21 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If we had an order of around 50, I could get them cast in aluminum.
The form would need to be in 2 halves.
But, remember that aluminum shrinks after casting, so the form needs to be oversized ( I seem to remember the model needs to be oversized 1.12) and because it would be a sand casting, you loose a little of the dimensions to polishing.....

So, you could 3D print the design at 1.12 original. Does the sand casting preserve threads or does it leave an undersized hole to screw into?

Very cool stuff.

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from Taxman:

Does the sand casting preserve threads or does it leave an undersized hole to screw into?

No threads at all will be preserved.

The sand will leave a depression that will show you where to complete the hole with a drill bit, and then run a tap through it for threading.

#23 3 years ago

sand casting! I remember this from jr. high metal shop 101.

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If we had an order of around 50, I could get them cast in aluminum.

That's about how many I was thinking it would take to get done in metal. It would also be nice to have the flat area where it comes up against the 6 bolt metal plate that attaches to the cab a bit thicker also, that's the weak point. Even if the handle was done in plastic that would be the point to make thicker. I hope I explained it right.

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

because I didn't have enough interest. Plus I need to find a source for metal casting.

I see.

#26 3 years ago

I'd be in for metal

#27 3 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

I keep accidentally pistol whipping myself with it when I bend down to get stuff. Had it happen to me today. Seriously.

Ya know if it were silver in color that might not happen.

#28 3 years ago

OK let's start a list, who would be up for a metal one...#1 Me.

#29 3 years ago

If we had 50, we could have a machine shop bore all the holes and tap the threads.

#31 3 years ago

#3 metal

#32 3 years ago

#4 metal

#33 3 years ago

#5 metal.

We wouldnt' have to have these smooth or polished. In fact they should be powdercoated in a rough black. If there are only 50. It wouldn't take much to tap these out yourself. If it would save on the end, I'd tap my own. Or tap the whole batch by hand.

#34 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

I'd tap my own. Or tap the whole batch by hand.

Yeah, Neo. You'd tap your own all right.

I'm in for #6. I don't want to tap my own though. I like it when someone else taps mine for me.

#35 3 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

I don't want to tap my own though. I like it when someone else taps mine for me.

Me too, last time I tapped one I didn't push it down straight and fast enough.......got beer all over the place.

Only 44 to go. Come on guys, spread the word.

#36 3 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

Yeah, Neo. You'd tap your own all right.
I'm in for #6. I don't want to tap my own though. I like it when someone else taps mine for me.

well i'll tap yours for you too then. Better let her know i'm stopping over.

#37 3 years ago

Hopefully Paul (the OP) hasn't put too much work into CAD design and 3D printing these now that his thread has been high jacked and is now a metal handle preorder thread by someone else.
Sorry Paul.

#38 3 years ago
Quoted from Ed_in_Texas:

Hopefully Paul (the OP) hasn't put too much work into CAD design and 3D printing these now that his thread has been high jacked and is now a metal handle preorder thread by someone else.
Sorry Paul.

No, you are missing the entire point.

Paul's CAD design is REQUIRED to make a metal handle.

He would need to enlarge the design to offset the metal shrinkage.

He would need to 3D print both halves of the form.

He would need to supply the CAD drawing for any milling required after casting.

Don't try and sell Paul short, nothing is able to happen without him.

#39 3 years ago

I think this thread is gauging how many people would like a new shooter. I'd prefer metal, but not at $400-500... If the OP can make a great repo that wears better than the original. I'm interested. I also understand that it does take some time and effort. Paul, you mentioned you were looking into other materials... Did metal happen to be one by chance?

#40 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

In fact they should be powdercoated in a rough black.

They could be anodized in flat black.

Probably the most durable finish.

#41 3 years ago

I wouldn't use a 3d print as a basis for a mould though. 3d printing (as Paul said) can be very ridged and will not give a smooth finish.

Might be better (and easier) to just take a mould from an original handle and ignore the marginal size difference. It can't faithfully be called a repro anyway if it's cast in metal.

#42 3 years ago

I don't think anyone would pay that much. I wonder if Marco or PBL would be interested in buying some.

#43 3 years ago
Quoted from Wizcat:

I wouldn't use a 3d print as a basis for a mould though. 3d printing (as Paul said) can be very ridged and will not give a smooth finish.

Depends on the printer.

My clients use them and there are no ridges, but they did not pay $399 at Makerfaire for their 3D printers.

Tiny ridges would be obscured by the "sandblast" finish of a sandcasting

aluminum_pistol_casting_before_cutting_sprue_and_riser_(resized).JPG

#44 3 years ago

plus, you could always use that 3D printer glaze to smooth over your project before making molds from it.

#45 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

No, you are missing the entire point.
Paul's CAD design is REQUIRED to make a metal handle.
He would need to enlarge the design to offset the metal shrinkage.
He would need to 3D print both halves of the form.
He would need to supply the CAD drawing for any milling required after casting.
Don't try and sell Paul short, nothing is able to happen without him.

Not missing the point. Not "selling Paul short". Have you or anyone talked to Paul about using his CAD drawing? No you haven't. Paul and I live just a few miles apart and talk almost daily about TPF (Paul is also a TPF organizer) so I'm well aware of his plan on this project. Someone might want to send him a message and ask him about using his CAD drawing. I don't have a Sega Batman, so it doesn't bother me either way.

#46 3 years ago

Guys, thanks for the comments. plan is to make the base thicker, and the guts will have an internal webbing for strength (it will be an entire new unit, no need to have the old Sega guts to mount it on) I'm going to try it in some carbon PLA and ABS for strength and looks. I'm also looking into metal by the the SLS approach, still quite pricy, but the good news for that's is we pay the same if we do 1 or 20 (beauty of 3D printing). without knowing the size of the run i'm trying to avoid casting with a lot of finishing required. Yes, I currently plan to counter sink all the screws on one side with a receiving nut on the other. My goal is for this to be solid and reliable, if it doesn't come out that way that I won't consider it successful.

-Paul

#47 3 years ago

Sounds good Paul.

#48 3 years ago
Quoted from Ed_in_Texas:

I don't have a Sega Batman, so it doesn't bother me either way.

Me neither.

I just though it sounded like a fun adventure.

#49 3 years ago
Quoted from Pablomck:

Guys, thanks for the comments. plan is to make the base thicker, and the guts will have an internal webbing for strength (it will be an entire new unit, no need to have the old Sega guts to mount it on) I'm going to try it in some carbon PLA and ABS for strength and looks. I'm also looking into metal by the the SLS approach, still quite pricy, but the good news for that's is we pay the same if we do 1 or 20 (beauty of 3D printing). without knowing the size of the run i'm trying to avoid casting with a lot of finishing required. Yes, I currently plan to counter sink all the screws on one side with a receiving nut on the other. My goal is for this to be solid and reliable, if it doesn't come out that way that I won't consider it successful.
-Paul

What's SLS?

2 weeks later
#50 3 years ago

I would love one in Metal. That would be great. Put me down for one. Please.

I don't think you will have any problems selling them if you made them. I would take the punt and just do it.

Cheers

Mitch

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There are 126 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.

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