You Can make your own tool for under $20 and by some rivets from Hanson Rivets in California. Gonna cost you about $40 in the long run but at least you'll be able to do them on all your games.

You need 4 things
1) C-clamp (find one that is light weight but with a wide gap. (so you can get to rivets within wide reach places)
2) kwikweld (to solder the die and clamp together)
3) Tubular Rivets (http://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/tubular-rivets/)
4) Squeezer Dies (this is what you weld to the C clamp) (http://www.hansonrivet.com/tools-machines/riveting-accessories/riveting-squeezer-dies-2/)

The only thing left to do is squeeze the damn thing into place. Works like a charm.

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There are standard sizes for the rivet heads but found it useful to get different lengths. The body of the rivet is 1/8" the head If the rivet is in a prominent place I used a more polished aluminium rivet. I'm not holding the bags in front of me right now but if you call them they can tell you the lengths and shape of the heads for these.

My last order from Hansen was this

C1-7-ST 5056 ALUMINUM RIVET
MS20450-C8-AD8 ALUMINUM RIVET
MS16535-156
MS20450-C8-AD10 ALUMINUM RIVET
MS16535-158
MS20450-C8-16 STEEL RIVET
MS16535-124
ABUP-4 ALUMINUM BACK-UP WASHER

Most places just don't have the space and the shaped hole in the plastic prevents the screw from being flush to the surface.

They are two different pieces. One is hallow to accepted the dome shape of the rivet and the other has a hallow end with a point in the middle to the the shaft of the rivet on itself

I ordered a long time ago canr remember but the folks at hanson can help you out

Metal saw, a vice and a bench grinder are your friend. After i cut the pieces flush i put a rivet between the dies and squeeze the clamp slightly to make sure both pieces were aligned. Then i added the kwikweld to the base and the top. Let them dry for a full day....no problems since then. Someone sells these things online somewhere but i just made my own.