(Topic ID: 159919)

Secret Service owners club - all are welcome!

By s1500

5 years ago


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  • 298 posts
  • 55 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by monkfe
  • Topic is favorited by 24 Pinsiders

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There are 298 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 6.
#251 11 months ago
Quoted from ledzepp79use:

Hello all,
Brand new to the hobby and am looking to buy a SS machine as it looks to be a fun game that won’t break the bank, and I found one locally that is in good condition. Only problem is that with the topper it’s slightly too tall for the location that I would be placing it. Can the topper be removed without much trouble and without interfering with the operation of the game (other than not having the flashing lights)? I don’t know if this is sacrilege to ask because I’m sure folks like to keep things as built to some extent, but it just won’t fit. I would obviously keep the topper safe so that it could be reinstalled. TIA for any info.

It won't affect game play so go ahead and remove it if you wish. It's a pity though as Retina Scan never gets tired and the sequenced light show along with the game ending song is always fun. And I am NOT a topper guy.

#252 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr68:

It won't affect game play so go ahead and remove it if you wish. It's a pity though as Retina Scan never gets tired and the sequenced light show along with the game ending song is always fun. And I am NOT a topper guy.

Thanks for the feedback. It’s definitely not ideal but would be the only way to make it work in my space. So it removes fairly easily then? I would imagine just a few bolts/screws?

#253 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr68:

It won't affect game play so go ahead and remove it if you wish. It's a pity though as Retina Scan never gets tired and the sequenced light show along with the game ending song is always fun. And I am NOT a topper guy.

Absolutely!
& its also tied into both of the spinners. I'm not a topper dude either but on this game..... yeah but do what you got to do

#254 11 months ago

Here is a new translite available for this super fun game.

SECRET SERVICE fin PST (resized).jpg
#255 11 months ago

Better than the original for sure....

1 month later
#256 10 months ago

Has anyone here re-mounted the little car by the Whitehouse?

I found a replacement but its apparent I will have to re-drill holes in it at a minimum.

Anyone have any advice or experience with this?

Also noticed I couldn't cycle into the pop bumpers in test. I have a blue pop bumper bot not firing. Whats up with that, you can't get to them from test?

Thanks ahead of time

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#257 10 months ago
Quoted from BulkOfTheSeries:

Has anyone here re-mounted the little car by the Whitehouse?
I found a replacement but its apparent I will have to re-drill holes in it at a minimum.
Anyone have any advice or experience with this?
Also noticed I couldn't cycle into the pop bumpers in test. I have a blue pop bumper bot not firing. Whats up with that, you can't get to them from test?
Thanks ahead of time [quoted image][quoted image]

Correct.

The 01 and 02 boards had direct fire pops and slings, this was changed on the 03 boards.

#258 10 months ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Better than the original for sure....

I wouldn't say better, just a different feel.

I personally like the original cheese translite, but that one is cool too.

#259 10 months ago
Quoted from RonSS:

I wouldn't say better, just a different feel.
I personally like the original cheese translite, but that one is cool too.

The original is fine, I mean come on have you guys seen Spring Break?

3 weeks later
#260 9 months ago

Hi Everyone,

I've owned a Secret Service since the early 90s. Its my only pin, and its been in storage for years, but overall its survived quite well. Recently, I've been bringing it back to life. I'm new to Pinside and I have a few questions for you all:

1) I'm looking for the part number (or weblink) for the outhole switch. It seems like the hooked arm is over 2 inches long to get the hook all the way to the right spot, but that does not seem to exist anywhere on any of the part sites. Even when they say its for Data East outhole its only 1-3/4 inch. Am I measuring from the wrong place or do they not make the really long hooks like SS needs? Right now, I just bought a blank microswitch with no arm and have the original, old ~2 inch arm taped to the actuator. It works but it needs adjusting every 50 games or so. Id rather just replace it.

2) Im having a problem setting up the skill shot off the shooter up the ramp. I know its tricky to get right the angles right, but it really seems like I cant get the shooter rod low enough to contact the ball in the middle (seems to be too high relative to the ball, and just grazes it and gives the ball topspin). I literally cannot move the shooter housing any lower without making new holes in the cabinet. I know for a fact that it worked well back in the day (ran up the ramp most of the time), so I cant possibly have to make new holes? Is there a way to adjust the angle of the rod to point it more down? Ive fiddled with the three screws but wondered if I am missing something

3) The notorious weak upper flipper. It works intermittently, but mostly its weak or doesn't flip. Here, I have tried everything. There is a new cabinet switch behind the button, totally new flipper parts, new coil. I've checked that the ohms are about right at flipped and resting (~100 and ~4). I even convinced myself to get a new flipper power board. Still not good. Any ideas? I'm not sure I could rerun all new wires, and I'm hoping that there is something else to try first.

4) I have new-ish bridge rectifiers in place (not original - replaced circa 2009), but I saw on Marco that there is a new little board (Inkochnito Bridge Board) to deal with them failing. Is it really a common problem? It hasn't happened ever on mine but the rectifiers are getting several years old now. So wondering if its a worthwhile upgrade or just something that can be solved with new cheap rectifiers from an electronics shop at a regular multiyear interval?

Really enjoyed reading through this thread. And seeing all the cool redone decals and plastics, which I am sure I will get in touch about some of those at some point.

#261 9 months ago

So I picked up a Secret Service last weekend and it does not boot up. It has power and is getting 5 volts. Is the MPU board available to buy anywhere?

#262 9 months ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

So I picked up a Secret Service last weekend and it does not boot up. It has power and is getting 5 volts. Is the MPU board available to buy anywhere?

I don't think so, but this guy might be able to help https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/9#post-6158364

3 months later
#263 5 months ago

Can someone confirm the hanger measurement ...got mine mixed up and not sure what's supposed to be in there...thos one measures 2 1/8inches as pictured

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1 week later
#264 5 months ago
Quoted from RonSS:

Working on my Service and noticed this. Yellow/Green? just hanging out.
The middle tab of the large ball eater coil is empty. Does it go there? Doesn't seem to reach anything as is.
I'll check the schema, but figured I'd post in advance.[quoted image]

I realized this was from a year ago but I'm currently working on a game and found the same two wires hanging out there. Can someone post a picture of where they actually go? There was a post that said they go to the stand up target but that doesn't seem right. I don't think they are long enough. Thanks for any assistance!

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#265 5 months ago

Looks like gi wiring...,manual should say where that color wire goes to...I can check my harness and see if I labeled it, but the manual would be my go to best bet...my playfield it out at the moment and the only picture I have has the wires detached and hanging as yours are of course

#266 5 months ago

I was thinking GI, just trying to figure out where. I don't want to guess and the manual that I found online is pretty useless for this kind of stuff.

Can anyone else snap a picture of this area and these wires?

#267 5 months ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

I was thinking GI, just trying to figure out where. I don't want to guess and the manual that I found online is pretty useless for this kind of stuff.
Can anyone else snap a picture of this area and these wires?

Ok looks like it's on the switch matrix...here is a pic of the switches it goes too

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#268 5 months ago

...and then I just found this....I looked at my harness, the swith matrix wires are thinner, prob 20-22 ga, the GI wires are heavier gauge, prob 18 ga, in your photo they appear to be the heavier gauge...so I believe they're GI

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#269 5 months ago

Thanks for posting those. You made me go back and have another look in the manual. For some reason I didn't even think to look at the switch or lamp matrix diagrams. And on closer inspection I found that second diagram as well but the quality isn't the best.

I will go have a look again and see if any of the switches close by is missing a green/white wire. If it's just GI it might be a different story.

#270 5 months ago

I think I am the guy who answered this question before. Those two wires white with green stripe go to the red stand up target for "Lites Laserkick" that is located directly behind the ball eater mech. Here are a few pictures from my game, its kind of hard to get a good shot of it but that is definitely where they belong.

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#271 5 months ago

And I can see it right there in the switch matrix chart #13 Target Eater

#272 5 months ago

Just double checked. I already have a green/white wire connected to the red stand up target. What I'm looking at is the bundle of wires above the ball eater close when you have the playfield lifted up. It's right beside the small coil. Two green/white wires soldered together just hanging out.

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#273 5 months ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Just double checked. I already have a green/white wire connected to the red stand up target. What I'm looking at is the bundle of wires above the ball eater close when you have the playfield lifted up. It's right beside the small coil. Two green/white wires soldered together just hanging out.
[quoted image]

What about the pop bumper switch ...that's on the same string

#274 5 months ago

Not nearly enough length. I'm stumped. And I'm sure it's going to be rather obvious.

#275 5 months ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Not nearly enough length. I'm stumped. And I'm sure it's going to be rather obvious.

Can you just follow the wires back to the next daisy chain point...that will confirm its gi or switch matrix...

#276 5 months ago

Here are a few more better pictures of that area. I myself can not see any other white/green wires in that area of the game. Perhaps some of these games were wired differently from the factory? IDK. My game is a Very nice example of this title so just going by what I see on mine & believe that it is correct. Try triggering that stand up target and see if it scores/works in a game?

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1 month later
#277 3 months ago

Hi everyone. I just got me a “ Secret Service”. I like this game. I was wondering if someone has an extra ramp for sale and 1 or the 3 center stand up targets an the plastic above catapult or if someone scanned it and has the files ? Thank you

#278 3 months ago

I'm lucky to have a talented friend that can interpret my ideas. With the Mission Impossible music being the most predominate in the game and the Tom Cruise movie sequels, it was a no brainer for me to come up with, Mission Impossible: Secret Service.

Also, the playfield is a blank canvas from identification markings so this works and the Secret Service sequel matches the cabinet. I specifically asked for no Tom Cruise.

I hope you guys approve

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2 weeks later
#279 3 months ago

Hi. Please can someone take a pic from decals in main ramp entrance and tower. I need to redo the decals. Thank you

1 week later
#280 86 days ago

My machine recently has started to reset sometimes while playing and now as soon as the flippers are pressed after starting a game. I recently replaced the original flippers board so I can update the original. So upon looking at the power supply connections, I think the issue is needing to repin both molex connectors. What say you?

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3 weeks later
#281 62 days ago

Hi everyone, Im trouble shooting a few things and came across one I cannot explain...

The star rollover on the left of the machine just behind the ramp going into the super spinner (on the left side). It wasn't registering at all, so I cleaned the switch. Now it seems to consistently make the sound of a speeding car, but it doesn't register the "500" points it lists on the playfield. If I test run a ball and ONLY touch that rollover once, it plays the sound effect but gives no points, but I get 1000 at bonus when I drain the ball (which is what you get for just paying a ball).

Any ideas what I need to do to get it to trigger the points? The switch is obviously working since it triggers the sound effect.

1 week later
#282 50 days ago

Hi everyone,
I'm new to posting. I have a secret service machine that has me confused (up post problem). I picked up this machine at an auction and brought it back from its grave. I did a lot of playfield restoration, wiring and coil repair. I had to replace the MPU and the display with a Rotten Dog board. When I fired it up everything seemed to work. I played and enjoyed it for months. The problem, that has been there from the begining, is that the up post is working backwards. The post is up at the beginning and end of the game. It comes down only after super spinner is lit and ball goes through the play field loop. At this time the, post drops down, the ball timer starts and at end of timer, the post returns up. Switch Diagnostics show that post switch 52 is active, wiring is correct to manual, Q 25 (when grounded) will activate the coil, and Q30 will cause lights between speakers to light (odd ?). Checked diodes on switches and coils on up post for orientation and they are working. I have traced the wires back to MPU and all wires are in the correct location. Any one have any ideas? I sure can use some help.

#283 48 days ago
Quoted from 67Touchdown:

Hi everyone,
I'm new to posting. I have a secret service machine that has me confused (up post problem). I picked up this machine at an auction and brought it back from its grave. I did a lot of playfield restoration, wiring and coil repair. I had to replace the MPU and the display with a Rotten Dog board. When I fired it up everything seemed to work. I played and enjoyed it for months. The problem, that has been there from the begining, is that the up post is working backwards. The post is up at the beginning and end of the game. It comes down only after super spinner is lit and ball goes through the play field loop. At this time the, post drops down, the ball timer starts and at end of timer, the post returns up. Switch Diagnostics show that post switch 52 is active, wiring is correct to manual, Q 25 (when grounded) will activate the coil, and Q30 will cause lights between speakers to light (odd ?). Checked diodes on switches and coils on up post for orientation and they are working. I have traced the wires back to MPU and all wires are in the correct location. Any one have any ideas? I sure can use some help.

What about the mechanical function of the up post...the part that switches the lock back and forth...is this something that can be reset to the opposite position ? like maybe its out of sync with the control of the solenoid? Just a thought...my game isn't working right now so I can't get into the weeds....
edit:...but the switch tells the CPU when its down so maybe not....anything activating the switch maybe throwing off the CPU?

#284 43 days ago

Lighted flippers in my SS

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#285 39 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

What about the mechanical function of the up post...the part that switches the lock back and forth...is this something that can be reset to the opposite position ? like maybe its out of sync with the control of the solenoid? Just a thought...my game isn't working right now so I can't get into the weeds....
edit:...but the switch tells the CPU when its down so maybe not....anything activating the switch maybe throwing off the CPU?

secret service up post problem
Thanks for the reply. I finally got a chance to look at your post. The mechanical operation of the post is working and I tried switching the wires on the switch. Doing that caused the switch diagnostic test not to recognize switch 52 ( it came up as switch 9) I have included a pic of my up post and not sure if that will help. Again I check the wire diagrams for the up post and switch, the wire codes are correct, diodes checked and working in the right orientation. I am certaintly puzzled over this. There is one other switch problem with switch 15 (middle target in front of the capital building) that switch will register as 44 and if you press it several times it will show up as 15. I not sure that would interfere with the up post operation

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#286 39 days ago

Hi. Someone knows the spring number for the pop up post? thank you

#287 39 days ago
Quoted from 67Touchdown:

secret service up post problem
Thanks for the reply. I finally got a chance to look at your post. The mechanical operation of the post is working and I tried switching the wires on the switch. Doing that caused the switch diagnostic test not to recognize switch 52 ( it came up as switch 9) I have included a pic of my up post and not sure if that will help. Again I check the wire diagrams for the up post and switch, the wire codes are correct, diodes checked and working in the right orientation. I am certaintly puzzled over this. There is one other switch problem with switch 15 (middle target in front of the capital building) that switch will register as 44 and if you press it several times it will show up as 15. I not sure that would interfere with the up post operation
[quoted image]

ah so it sounds like you have a classic switch matrix issue...which I'm sure is confusing the MPU and throwing off your sync with the coil as it seeing the mech as "up" when its not really...so look for a bad diode somewhere...there a lots of switch matrix youtube videos to show how you can figure this out...but sometimes its just quicker to just test each switch (with a DMM) in less than 10 minutes you should be able to find it...

#288 39 days ago

Can someone tell me the length of the lock cam in the back box?...I seem to have misplaced it and it seems unusually long...pic maybe too

#289 38 days ago

Thanks Monkfe for your suggestions. I did the checks on diodes by the switch matrix rectangle they checked ok, went back to the switch for the up post. I decided to flip the switch up side down (reversing the switch direction). That solved the problem of the post always being up. Sometimes its the most stupid things. When I got the machine it was positioned wrong (I assumed it was right). The lock cam is 1.875 long with an additional .250 for the spring tab. While I was looking for my post problem I saw pics of the cam. Now my only issue is the switch 15 sometimes showing up as switch 44.

#290 37 days ago

Monkfie
here is pick of the back box latch that secures the back glass. overall length is approx 4 inches, the flat straight length is 2.875

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#291 37 days ago

Thanks! Anyone have one of these? Can't seem to find mine....

2 weeks later
#292 22 days ago

Been working with Cliffy to come up with a Cliffy for the machine....This is actually made for a different machine, but fits perfectly when bent in the opposite direction...reach out to cliffy if you need one made..

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#293 17 days ago

Hi. Can some explain to me how the pop up post work? thank you in advance.

2 weeks later
#294 2 days ago

Im looking to overhaul my pop bumpers which are maybe original from factory and now mushy and cracked. Im thinking of upgrading and colour matching with new parts.

BUT the original ones in my Secret Service have 545-5099-00 bodies which seem to only be available in white: https://www.pinballlife.com/pop-bumper-body-older-style.html

While the newer DE/Stern bodies (545-5197-00) come in lots of great colours:
https://www.pinballlife.com/transparent-pop-bumper-body.html

I think I can just switch to new bodies since they appear to still fit into the "thumper bumper" mounts under the playfield in Secret Service but I would need to basically replace all the parts above the playfield (ring, cap, etc) - is this right? Are they interchangeable?

If I do this is and go with new shape, is there decal artwork for the bumpers anywhere for Secret Service? My surviving ones done look like I can remove them.

DE newest (resized).jpgDE older (resized).jpg
#295 1 day ago
Quoted from Karthag:

Im looking to overhaul my pop bumpers which are maybe original from factory and now mushy and cracked. Im thinking of upgrading and colour matching with new parts.
BUT the original ones in my Secret Service have 545-5099-00 bodies which seem to only be available in white: https://www.pinballlife.com/pop-bumper-body-older-style.html
While the newer DE/Stern bodies (545-5197-00) come in lots of great colours:
https://www.pinballlife.com/transparent-pop-bumper-body.html
I think I can just switch to new bodies since they appear to still fit into the "thumper bumper" mounts under the playfield in Secret Service but I would need to basically replace all the parts above the playfield (ring, cap, etc) - is this right? Are they interchangeable?
If I do this is and go with new shape, is there decal artwork for the bumpers anywhere for Secret Service? My surviving ones done look like I can remove them.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I changed mine a while back. I recently got the game back together enough to realize that the old pop bumper caps dont fit the new bodies. So keep that in mine if you're thinkin of changing up. ( but the new style pop bumper ring lights fit the new style caps)
20211202_175140 (resized).jpg

#296 1 day ago
Quoted from monkfe:

I changed mine a while back. I recently got the game back together enough to realize that the old pop bumper caps dont fit the new bodies. So keep that in mine if you're thinkin of changing up. ( but the new style pop bumper ring lights fit the new style caps)
[quoted image]

Thanks monkfe!

Right, so you changed the body and the caps, but the old metal ring/rods fit fine or did you get new ones?

And the parts under the playfield stayed the same? I mean, I will likely replace the spoons and the coils sleeves if they are worn out but otherwise the new bodies fit into the DE mount?

So then its really about the decals because my caps have the original decals - I guess I try to take a good picture and print new ones, cause I haven't seen the Secret Service pop bumper decals anywhere.

Also, the red plastics beside the missiles in the background are nice!

#297 1 day ago

Anyone with LEDs use the LED OCD board? Is it needed for Secret Service? LEDs look so nice in the comparative videos, but not sure if it will matter for this game vs just using non-ghosting frosted bulbs.

#298 1 day ago
Quoted from Karthag:

Thanks monkfe!
Right, so you changed the body and the caps, but the old metal ring/rods fit fine or did you get new ones?
And the parts under the playfield stayed the same? I mean, I will likely replace the spoons and the coils sleeves if they are worn out but otherwise the new bodies fit into the DE mount?
So then its really about the decals because my caps have the original decals - I guess I try to take a good picture and print new ones, cause I haven't seen the Secret Service pop bumper decals anywhere.
Also, the red plastics beside the missiles in the background are nice!

Yes I believe I used the original rods, so it was a pretty easy transition. I did install the LED OCD board as it really does need it. Reach out to Mr_Tantrum, he does all types of decals I'm sure he can make you some.

There are 298 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 6.

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