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(Topic ID: 231890)

Seawitch won't start a game...


By daintress

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Hop-Pac
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

I have a Seawitch that played great for years. Slowly, it began occasionally failing to load a game properly. A simple restart would fix the issue. Now it won't load a game at all. When you turn the power button on, you get the usual number of beeps, the displays show the scores from the last games played, alternated with the highest score, and 9 credits are showing.

Playfield lights operate as if in attraction mode, but when you hit the button to start a game, nothing happens. A week ago, when you hit the button, a game would APPEAR to begin, until you realized it didn't kick a ball out and the flippers wouldn't activate...

We have tried some basic troubleshooting and it appears the game knows the ball is in the trough - at least, contact is being made. We put the meter on the test points at TP2 and TP4 are both up over 500 volts when they should be much lower. But I don't know what to do to fix that or even if it could be the cause of the problem. (Or the start of some other, unrelated problem!)

If anyone has any ideas, I'd be very appreciative! This is my very favorite game!

#2 1 year ago

Go buy a beetles? J/k I’m sure someone can jump in and help ya. 500 v seems.......high.

#3 1 year ago

The test points on which board? Where did you put the black lead? Does start button register in switch test? Have you tried adding more credits anyway?

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from daintress:

TP2 and TP4 are both up over 500 volts

Which board, rectifier?

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

The test points on which board? Where did you put the black lead? Does start button register in switch test? Have you tried adding more credits anyway?

Rectifier/power driver board. The black lead was grounded to the braided ground wire. I can't get it into test mode to look at the switch tests - the buttons inside the coin door have no affect. The credit button does not add more credits, and neither does opening the door and forcing the switch closed.

#6 1 year ago

5101 Ram issue?

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from daintress:

Rectifier/power driver board. The black lead was grounded to the braided ground wire. I can't get it into test mode to look at the switch tests - the buttons inside the coin door have no affect. The credit button does not add more credits, and neither does opening the door and forcing the switch closed.

And the other test points measure fine?

Check continuity from the wires on the credit switch to the connectors on the MPU

#8 1 year ago

Could be a RAM issue, I guess. I hadn't really considered that.

The other test points measure reasonably close to where they should be, yes. I will check the wires next - as you know, they are very difficult for a n00b to trace. Especially since the machine has been worked on before (obv, at its age) and sometimes the color of wire that starts out is not the color that finishes. Lol!

#9 1 year ago

Seriously, you need to watch out if you have 500V floating around. Want to measure again?

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Seriously, you need to watch out if you have 500V floating around. Want to measure again?

My husband measured it several times since it was so surprising. I can ask him to measure again, if you don't feel he was accurate. It is, however, a large part of the reason I'm reaching out for help.

#11 1 year ago

daintress Try again, should be close to these. TP4 is AC, the rest DC

TP1 = +6.5 vdc .
TP2 = +230 vdc with connector J3 attached, 150 vdc with J3 disconnected.
TP3 = +13 to 16.5 vdc with connector J3 removed, +12 to 14 vdc with J3 connected.
TP4 = 5.7 to 7.3 volts AC
TP5 = +43 vdc

#12 1 year ago

Is the DMM auto ranging? Maybe it was on the wrong setting?

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