(Topic ID: 205552)

Seawitch stainless steel ball guides

By Orbian

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 100 posts
  • 35 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by xeneize
  • Topic is favorited by 13 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

stern playfield hanger (resized).jpg
Seawitch-OB3 (resized).jpg
Seawitch-OB2 (resized).jpg
Seawitch-OB1 (resized).jpg
20180205_090045 (resized).jpg
20180205_085919 (resized).jpg
IMG_0132[1] (resized).JPG
IMG_0129[1] (resized).JPG
IMG_0131[1] (resized).JPG
IMG_0130[1] (resized).JPG
IMG_0128[1] (resized).JPG
IMG_0134[1] (resized).JPG

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider cottonm4.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#7 6 years ago

I'm interested, but I have a couple of questions.

1) What size rivets do you use to install the angle brackets to the stainless steel strips? Are you using the small head rivets like factory or are you using a larger head/larger shank rivet?

2) Are the guide strips elevated up and away from the play field surface or are they riding hard against the play field?

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from Orbian:

We have sourced stainless steel rivets that match the size and look of the originals. I will post back what the final decision is on using them.
The guides are made to match the originals. If the originals were off the playfield then the repros would be off. If they float above the playfield I would be concerned about them wobbling on the mounting points and causing other issues. Maybe your guides were lose at some point then tightened down after this was noticed.
Same with the mounting points. If they have two holes then the repros would have two holes.
It looks like we are getting good interest on these. Does anyone have a donner set we can use to make these? We don't own this game.

Thank you.

I will be in for one set.

1 week later
#22 6 years ago
Quoted from Orbian:

These are the 3 guides I have pictures of. Since neither of us has the machine. Is there anything missing that should be included with this set?

I'm not at home to look at my Seawitch but I think you have what is needed.

I don't know how others feel about this but you should consider producing the one-way ball gate, too. All it is is a 1" piece of aluminum angle and approximately 6" of .010" of stainless steel riveted to the angle to make a one way flap door.

1 month later
#36 6 years ago
Quoted from Sly311271:

Here are the Metalgate

one square are 0,5 cm
total length = 15,5 cm
total width = 2,5 cm

Length 15 cm = 5.90 inches.

You would need to make the gate one inch to two inches longer.

Why? Because when you hit a ball going into the orbit from the left side and as it flies around it slams into the gate and makes the gate flex which throws off how the ball is supposed to travel. The gate flexes and drops down and sort of springs back and pushes the ball away from the right upper flipper. This makes it hard to get a double orbit shot.

A gate that is two inches longer allows for some tension to be preloaded into the gate and helps to get a more solid shot. I took my Cliffy gate off within a couple of hours of installing it and made one from polycarbonate that I was able to tension to a point where I get no flex.

Two inches might be a bit too long but any excess can be clipped of with some tin snips and the length can be fine tuned.

3 months later
#72 5 years ago
Quoted from Orbian:

I want to make this perfectly clear because some people may not have referenced the Fathom post regarding these guides before committing to buying. The guides are all 100% stainless steel. The flat metal guide face is natural finished, meaning it has a slight grain to it. These are made this way so that they can be offered at a reasonable price. If you want them shiny like the originals you have to do that yourself or find someone with a buffing wheel that could do it for you.
If they were made from mirror finished stainless they would be very expensive. If they had the slightest blemish people would be complaining. I personally feel at the current price point they are a great value. Considering what plastic toys modified for your game sell for.

I understand about the finish now. I need #8 mirror finish. Please cancel my Seawitch ball guide order.

#78 5 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

If I polish them with a buffing wheel, how close to mirror shiny do they get?

Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Thanks - that second video was helpful. I have polished old ball guides, side rails and lock bars before. It seems like in order to get a mirror finish on the new guides I would essentially have to go through the same process I would with the old original guides? If so, I'll need to consider what level of finish I want for the final look and weigh how much work getting new ones would actually save me. Is that right or am I missing something?

Quoted from j_m_:

if you have the right tools, its really not that much effort (as seen in that 2nd video)
btw, if you go to their link, you'll see that their product is just a bit overpriced for what it really is. $1,000 for a suped-up grinder? the same results can be achieved with 200, 400, 800 and 1200 grit sandpaper and a decent belt sander. then just finish it off with the proper rouge and a buffing wheel
personally, I like the grained look (which is a lot easier to achieve with 200, 400 and 600 grit), but like every ball guide, you'll start seeing "ball trails" as the ball polishes that tiny portion where it makes contact with the guide over time

Ball trails in stainless are easily polished out.

I took one of the pieces I got in the mail and hit it with the buffing wheel. It did polish up nicely. The scratches polished up, too. This look may work for some of you. But if you want mirror finish you will need to sand with progressively finer grits of sandpaper---sort of like that 2nd video. Only you will have to do it all by hand because your parts are already roll formed and the rivets are installed. You will not do any machine sanding on that. It is all hand power, baby.

Plus, for the largest piece, the ball inlet guide at top of the play field, for safety's sake you need to make a wooden jig to screw it onto, otherwise you risk having the buffing wheel grab it, bend it, twist it, and throw it across the room and possibly make injury to you.

Can they be mirror polished? Sure. And I will have to do that. But I figure 4-5 hours of my time for each set. Figure $20.00 an hour, I would have paid a bit more for mirrored units.

The construction quality is simply fantastic ! The way the rivets are set on the backside very clean looking. If you have no problem with grained surface you will do fine.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
From: $ 115.00
Playfield - Protection
Beehive Pinball Co.
 
$ 9.00
Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball
 
$ 1.00
Pinball Machine
Pinball Alley
 
$ 55.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Slipstream Mod Shop
 
$ 3.00
From: £ 110.00
$ 300.00
Cabinet Parts
Fantastic Pinball Inc.
 
$ 45.00
Pinball Machine
Wall To Wall Pinball
 
$ 199.95
4,750 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Clermont, FL
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
 
3,100 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
West Chester, PA
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider cottonm4.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/seawitch-stainless-steel-ball-guides?tu=cottonm4 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.