Finally getting to some projects that have been parked in the shop for a while. Decided that Seawitch has been on too long of a break and needs to get back to work.

Overall the game appears to be complete, with nothing obvious broken or missing on the topside. The PF is dirty and has some wear. Not sure how far i will go, but my first approach is always to get the machine running and playing 100% again.

The cabinet is solid (Has some dings and scrapes but structurally sound) and and has the correct legs which is a plus.

Inside the head the boards are complete and look ok. Battery is still on the board but doesn’t appear to have leaked alkaline. I do have an Altek if need be but if i can i will preserve the original board-set. I have some spare SB 300’s and a lamp driver board if need be.

After clipping the battery, the fun will begin in the lower cab. The rectifier board is toast and i already have a new repro one that is much better. Lots of wire splices with some good ol electrical tape or wire nuts insulating them. And a bunch of wires soldered directly to the header pins on the back of the board. And looks like a volume pot was Repurposed from something else, wrapped with an obscene amount of electrical tape.

So gonna start with the wiring and swapping in the new rectifier board. Then a PS rebuild so i can test some voltages.
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Wow i can’t believe its been 6 months. Enough time to completely restore this game. you’d think.... lol

Haven’t even looked at cosmetics. first goal is to get to a point where i trust putting power to it. So i needed to finish replacing that burnt up rectifier board. To do that i first had to finish replacing the 20 pin connector since there was a bunch of wires bypassing the housing and soldered directly to the back of the board. I got that cleaned up and looking good. Then i could pull the board with the transformer and work at the bench to save my back. New board wired up to transformer finally. Then i had to replace the line cord since the ground pin was gone. Turned out they wired the line filter wrong (according to the standard color coding) so fixed that too. Not that it made a difference otherwise (electrically was fine) but i was there anyway.

MPU looks ok but i got this as a non working game with no idea if it worked. Removed the battery which may of been replaced at some point in its life. No leaking anyway so i was happy with that. Unplugged everything but the one connector on the rectifier board. Voltages look ok so i put power to the SDU only. 5 volt is good but the display voltage is low. Ordered the big caps for that from Ed but in the meantime i was comfortable to test the MPU.

Go through the solenoids to see if anything looks sketchy and ohmed them out. Don’t find anything of concern.

Big moment - time to put power to the mpu. But anticlimactic, only getting 2 flashes. Pull the board to have a look. The two 5101’s were already socketed, so maybe they had been replaced before. I had a nvram on hand for my f2k i never installed. So installed that, then put the board back in the game and retried hoping for some more flashes.

Seven. Seven muther f’ing flashes, with seven clear tones from the speaker. pf lighting up and in attract mode. No displays but i wasnt expecting to see them yet. Day instantly made. I enjoy these moments more than playing pinball .

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So the game for the most part plays. I got all the displays to light, but i’m still going to service the SDU though. One thing i have to figure out is why the displays go blank when they are supposed to show HSTD. Maybe its because its not saving a high score? I’ll try and clear the RAM Memory later. But thats not my current mission.

Main flippers work, upper don’t but its obvious why. Wiring for the upper flipper switches off the main flippers is broken. But all 4 need to be cleaned and serviced. The upper right EOS switch looks like the switch contact is burned off. The coil stop is half falling off the left upper flipper. Wiring and solder job in general just looks like shit. So i am going to fix it.

However, how they are wired is confusing me. Admittedly most of my experience is on WMS games but how different can it be. If i was wiring a flipper, i would attach the power wire to the banded side of the outer terminal (lets call that terminal 1). The ground wire would go to the non banded side of the other outer terminal (call that #3). EOS is hooked up across the middle (#2) and non banded side (#3).

This is not how mine are hooked up. But maybe i just don’t get how the upper flippers get wired to the second switch. I’m thinking the outter (normally open) is for the upper and the inner one closest to coil is the EOS switch. Maybe its the opposite? I don’t have the manual and don’t see what im looking for on IPDB.

also not sure what the 5W resistor that is inline with the left upper flipper EOS Is for. Its bypassed on the right flipper. Here are some pics. This is how i found them and not my handy work!

Left Main

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Right main

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Upper left

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Upper right

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I don’t think wiring the EOS to the banded side of the diode looks correct to me...