(Topic ID: 336641)

Seawitch Issues

By aeonblack

11 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 6 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by wayout440
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#1 11 months ago

Hello, I have been working on a Seawitch project for a month or so. After getting the game 100% working, I did the playfield swap and now I am having two issues:

-The 1a fuse on the playfield between the flippers blows as soon as the coil test triggers the first coil (the top pop bumper).

-No feature lights lighting up and 10a rectifier board fuse blowing. I replaced all the GI with LED's and the feature inserts with the led PCB's that Pinball Life carries (similar to Yopsicles...https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-bally-stern-insert-led-pcb.html). Then once the game was reconnected, the 10a feature fuse on the rectifier board would blow as soon as the game boots up. I checked the connectors on the LDA-100 board and noticed that if I disconnected J2 the fuse would not blow, but there were still no lights on. On closer inspection, the 7th pin from the bottom on J2 had some kind of green goop on it, so I pulled that pin, cleaned it with alcohol spray and re-seated it. Now with all connectors connected the fuse isn't blowing but I am still not getting any feature lights EXCEPT for the white arrow just after the spinner. Doing the feature light self test nothing flashes or turns on (except for the white arrow which just stays lit).

Notes:
-I did not change any wiring, I simply swapped the old light sockets for the new PCB's.
-I assumed I had a short somewhere, so I went through looking for anything touching or mis-wired but I can't find anything. I re-flowed a few solder joints that looked a bit suspicious, but testing with continuity everything is grounding fine over the common. I know the rectifier board is solid as it was tested and working for weeks before the playfield swap (and it's a new rectifier board, everything was re-soldered and re-pinned). The LDA-100 board in the backbox looks solid as well.
-As mentioned, the game was 100% working before the pf swap, so it's either on the pf or something with the connectors.
-The coils do feel a little bit crusty, but while they are getting somewhat high resistance readings none are off the charts. I wouldn't rule out coils being a problem though. I was having issues with the coils when I got the game but that ended up being a bad rectifier board.

Happy to test anything out and try anything! I'm fresh out of ideas and places to look.

#4 11 months ago

Okay, so I managed to narrow down the coil problem and get it resolved. It was a bent pin on one of the slingshot coils (not sure if the solder joint was cracked or if it was contacting something else, but I straightened it out and reflowed and it resolved the problem. I did check and you were right about the 1a not being a slo blo fuse, so I swapped one of those in as well. Coils are all testing out fine now.

Now, for the lamp circuits:

I went through and individually checked each wire from board pin to light board on J1-J3 and I'm solid there for continuity, so my connections are all correct. I also checked all the pins out and cleaned out a few slots on the connectors and re-pinned them. I'm still not ruling out the connectors because historically those have been my biggest problem, but before I re-pin j1-j3 with all new connectors I want to make sure I'm not just missing something stupid.

Thanks slochar for reminding me to re-check that I wasn't cross-wired anywhere between the GI and feature lights...turns out I was in two places. For the one single arrow insert light that was on, it wasn't actually pinned out on J1-J3 anywhere. I checked my photos and while it was a bit tough to tell I did actually swap the wires on that one with the ones for the GI lighting right beside it. So that is fixed now and is wired and pinned correctly. Then, there was a ground wire I accidentally connected between the right sling GI and the feature chain beside it.

So, everything is working now! Huzzah! Thanks for the help.

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