Are the ball trough pieces from a Stern? Obviously a Bally coil but looks more like Stern parts. If those playfield hangers are from a Stern, they won't fit with a Bally receiver.

Scratch building my Star Gazer, I ran into a clearance issue with the older style Stern drop target mechs (not to mention also learning I had to file out the pass-through holes because the repro targets are too dang wide). I put a lie-down style socket in but Seawitch looks like it has more bulbs to deal with under there.

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Right, I followed that but you cut the second one for clearance so I showed my solution for the same issue using the older style Stern mech. I also had issues with the repro flat top drops being too wide (since these mechs originally used the smaller chicklet drops) so I had to file out the holes. I love to see that Bally drops can be modified to fit Stern designs honestly
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I also saw you mention you were going to route out your pop bumper holes to fit newer style mechs. I’ve had that thought for my older games because I hate the original metal base plate design. I don’t have photos at the ready but to fit one in my Trident, I just shaved down the plastic ring on the base plate. It did not solve the issue of new rings being too wide to pass through when installing a fully assembled mech however.
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I'd rather modify a $15 bracket than a playfield, personally.

It's closer to .15 inch (4mm) difference. Maybe more? I don't recall, but regardless, I'd rather mess with something reversible. I'm certainly not knocking @gdonovan's idea or work on this project. It's great he's doing this and sharing the progress.

Anyways, back to his show...

Good lord

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I’d recommend routing out a bit of depth with a forstner bit for the post screws to be able to bite more. Unless you’re using machine screws up from the bottom to mimic the carriage bolt method SEI did originally.

When I did this on my Quicksilver build, it was a mistake to not sink them more. Only catching a few threads resulted in loose posts biting up the shitty Mirco clear. Had to replace them with machine screws from underneath.

#6 - 2-1/4” machine screws work well without having to trim them. Hard to find specific length though and it looks like my order link from Bolt Dropper is dead. 2-1/2 and some super champs to trim will work.

Back off topic…

#rawhide/#Stampede and Disco were all before Pinball, however Pinball was the first solid state (though also released as an EM).

Huh, I get random pop fires on my Quicksilver and Star Gazer scratch builds. I wonder if adding caps would help. I just assumed I didn’t know how to adjust a leaf switch.

Looking forward to what you think of this. I’ve been trying to figure out what I need to make my own ball guides too.

I’ve debated buying a tiny 3D printer mostly because of those dang spacer posts being so expensive from the usual sources.

Wow! PM incoming

I’m in no rush for a generous offer! Thanks again!

Curious, would you mind sharing a step-by-step on how you modify your lamp boards with those bussed resistors? (Possibly even with parts to buy from GPE or something?).

I've seen you post images a few times but haven't been able to find any how-to posts.

Thanks very much! I look forward to giving this a shot on the Stingray I’m patching up.

Finally modified one of my many spare LDB boards and it seems to do the trick. I may have a component that needs replacing. The L lane at the top flickers in attract mode and is off in gameplay.

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Thanks again for posting the how-to!

I assume you nabbed those eBay ones out of Plano?

Awesome! I bet that's way more reasonably priced than having a complete glass shipped. Care to say how much? It was over $500 when I inquired a complete glass

I’m mostly interested in the mirrored versions he’s able to recreate (or in some instances, custom make). So do you feel a bgresto looks better than the film? It seemed like a very quick install. I assume you’ll tape the edges like bgresto does?

Sending positive and healthy recovery vibes your way

They forgot to put the switch stack in. At least the screws didn't poke all the way through!

Love this idea. I have couple old bally inserts boards that I'm now glad I haven't tossed out. Glad you're feeling well enough already to do more projects!

This may be a dumb question but the lamp driver board mod, the same principal and method can be used on an Aux board, right? I picked up a light (no pun intended ) Fathom project last week.

Sweet, an even better answer than I was hoping for! Maybe it wasn’t such a dumb question after all!

I have a PIN2DMD I got for my X-Files but didn’t quite realize how different the install process was to a ColorDMD (for which X-Files is somehow still not a title). I got overwhelmed by other projects and haven’t dug into it. Thanks for the reminder. Any tips/links on the best install process?