(Topic ID: 298861)

Seawitch from scratch, Allentown edition (Bally/Stern multi-game platform)

By gdonovan

2 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

32 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #142 Converting Bally drop target assemblies for use with Stern targets. Posted by gdonovan (2 years ago)

Post #213 Converting Data East LAH flippers to "classic Stern" use. Posted by gdonovan (2 years ago)

Post #618 Seawitch, first gameplay video. Posted by gdonovan (2 years ago)

Post #639 3d printed lamp shields Posted by gdonovan (2 years ago)

Post #690 Cabinet decal work starts. Posted by gdonovan (2 years ago)

Post #792 Seawitch, second gameplay video showing flasher operation. Posted by gdonovan (2 years ago)

Post #794 Centaur "module" section begins. Posted by gdonovan (2 years ago)

Post #796 Seawitch portion of project is complete. Posted by gdonovan (2 years ago)

Post #802 Seawitch at Pintastic 2021. 500+ games in less than 48 hours! Posted by gdonovan (2 years ago)


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#27 2 years ago

On the Bally receiver, you could weld a pivot bolt to the receiver and counterbore the cabinet inside to provide for bolt head clearance. Which is what Bally should’ve done in the first place.

1 month later
#441 2 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

For the match lamp I popped in a light shield that was purchased for Flash Gordon.
It was not very effective till I put some tape just on the top and even then lots of light bleed in around the sides. I could disable the lower light strip as nothing much is lit up down there for Seawitch.
I had considered individual trimmers for each strip so they could be tuned for each backglass but considered that unnecessary complexity.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Try painting the outside of the FG lamp shield with silver paint. Good old bumper silver paint blocks light perfectly. Although it’s not necessary, You could even paint white over the silver if you wanted the look.

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