(Topic ID: 298861)

Seawitch from scratch, Allentown edition

By gdonovan

65 days ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 606 posts
  • 35 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 minutes ago by Quench
  • Topic is favorited by 43 Pinsiders

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There are 606 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 13.
#401 30 days ago

Different router bit tonight, woot!

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#402 28 days ago

Finalizing some display wiring last night, I'd show you a picture but my usual camera has a broken lens. damnit.

#403 27 days ago

Ready for some pictures?

#404 27 days ago

Ok; The main problem with this machine is it is going to be used (hopefully!) with a few different titles which means more often than not different display & controlled lamp configurations for the back panel. So how do we get around this problem without having separate backpanel inserts?

When working on Flash Gordon I noted that most of the Bally backglasses had the displays in the same spot, at least the ones here at the house do (Star Trek, Flash Gordon, Supersonic, Xenon) and it struck me that with the UNO displays I could make a fairly small hole for the connector and just move them around as needed.

Step one was to make a blank panel and start hanging paper displays on it and marking display locations and routing them out... As you can see with the Flash Gordon backglass not bad at all.

Since the displays were going to be mobile the next problem was the factory display harness would not work. So I made a new harness where displays can pretty much reach all corners of the board.

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#405 27 days ago

Next problem: Relocatable controlled lights for tilt, shoot again, game over, match, etc.

Answer? Yoppsicle lamps mounted with velcro which can be moved in moments.

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#406 27 days ago

Last problem: GI lighting and what maybe my more interesting and convoluted solution.. but works as the power is already there and I have the parts on hand.

I used USB 5V strip lighting (240 LEDs, 16 feet) cut into sections and soldered by back together.

Power? I took the 6VAC GI lighting feed to the backbox, ran it through a bridge rectifier to get DC voltage and then ran the output through a buck booster to get the desired voltage and brightness levels. The advantage of this setup is I can tune the light levels to anything I like by simply turning the voltage up or down at the buck booster. I actually found with all the LEDs present 2.75V to 3.0V looks great. A trimmer would have done the job I'm sure but I had the booster kicking around from an old problem so in it went.

Need to get some light shields around the controlled lamps, and the displays looked better once I installed the foam light blockers on them, all and all pretty pleased with the results.

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#407 27 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I took the 6VAC GI lighting feed to the backbox, ran it through a bridge rectifier to get DC voltage and then ran the output through a buck booster to get the desired voltage and brightness levels.

You just said a mouthful here. What is a buck booster?

#408 27 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You just said a mouthful here. What is a buck booster?

In laymen terms a voltage regulator that allows you to reduce or increase a DC voltage level.

You can turn 6VDC down to 3VDC or UP to 12VDC.

amazon.com link »

#409 27 days ago

Oh and I'm still tweaking and changing a few things so more updates later!

#410 27 days ago

Sorry if I missed it -- what is the 6th display about, on right?

#411 27 days ago
Quoted from mof:

Sorry if I missed it -- what is the 6th display about, on right?

He forgot the 7th display for 6 Million Dollar Man

#412 27 days ago
Quoted from mof:

Sorry if I missed it -- what is the 6th display about, on right?

Photocopy of actual credit display unit in bally position to make sure I did not install GI lamp strip there.

#413 27 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

in bally position

sorry don't follow... what's the goal?

#414 27 days ago
Quoted from mof:

sorry don't follow... what's the goal?

The back panel has multiple openings for different display locations. These two pictures are same machine, same light panel. The displays are just moved to new location depending on which backglass is installed.

When completed I'll be able to run pretty much any Bally or Stern standard playfield.

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#415 27 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

He forgot the 7th display for 6 Million Dollar Man
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I have little interest in duplicating that title!

However I do have a chime box going in for any early solid state titles like Stars or Night Rider.

Also with the availability of the Nano modules for taking over MPU functions I'd like to explore a retheme or even scratch built game in the future.

#416 27 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

When completed I'll be able to run pretty much any Bally or Stern playfield

What did I miss, why do we want that?

#417 27 days ago
Quoted from mof:

What did I miss, why do we want that?

We?

#418 26 days ago

Some pictures from this morning- Light board with display locations clearly marked out and comparison of light between 2.75 volts and 3.0 volts with the shop lights off. The dark spot where the Bally credit display would sit bothers me slightly, I'm either going to make a lamp diffuser or a lighted insert panel that can be removed. I have some diffuser plastic out in the garage and will give it a try this afternoon.

Minor issue in the big scheme of things though.

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#419 26 days ago

Not a big deal for you but the Bally player displays are not all 100% in the same position. I had a Skateball backglass in my Medusa and the Skateball player display windows were all off by one digit inwards.

#420 26 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Not a big deal for you but the Bally player displays are not all 100% in the same position. I had a Skateball backglass in my Medusa and the Skateball player display windows were all off by one digit inwards.

The slots for connectors have enough wiggle room to move the displays around quite a bit and I can always revisit the light board with the router at any time.

With the connectors on the board very easy to remove and reinstall for service with unscrewing the hinges taking the most time.

#421 26 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Not a big deal for you but the Bally player displays are not all 100% in the same position. I had a Skateball backglass in my Medusa and the Skateball player display windows were all off by one digit inwards.

Same thing happens with Seawitch and Catacomb. You think they are the same and they are not.

#422 26 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Some pictures from this morning- Light board with display locations clearly marked out and comparison of light between 2.75 volts and 3.0 volts with the shop lights off. The dark spot where the Bally credit display would sit bothers me slightly, I'm either going to make a lamp diffuser or a lighted insert panel that can be removed. I have some diffuser plastic out in the garage and will give it a try this afternoon.
Minor issue in the big scheme of things though.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Let me spend some of your money for you .

You might as well get 4 more UNO displays and fill all slots with displays. That way when you swap to the other play field all you need do is swap the displays wiring as opposed to having to move and realign the displays in the other slots. It is only a couple of hundred dollars more

#423 26 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Let me spend some of your money for you .
You might as well get 4 more UNO displays and fill all slots with displays. That way when you swap to the other play field all you need do is swap the displays wiring as opposed to having to move and realign the displays in the other slots. It is only a couple of hundred dollars more

Alignment holes for displays already setup, idiot proof!

Edit: also some games may share connector locations, but the displays themselves are in subtly different spots.

#424 26 days ago

Maybe you can add a few optional LED bulbs with connectors so you can drop a bulb down in through that hole you cut out, and light up the lady on the right.

Or better yet a strip that rests on a plug that fills neatly any of those holes you cut out so you can pop it into any of the slots for different games.

-mof

#425 26 days ago
Quoted from mof:

Maybe you can add a few optional LED bulbs with connectors so you can drop a bulb down in through that hole you cut out, and light up the lady on the right.
Or better yet a strip that rests on a plug that fills neatly any of those holes you cut out so you can pop it into any of the slots for different games.
-mof

Pretty sure I'm going to go with a lighted insert but going to play with diffuser first.

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#426 26 days ago
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#427 26 days ago

While an interesting experiment itself, did not have the desired effect.

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#428 26 days ago

Let's give this a try.

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#429 26 days ago

The simplest diffuser is plastic with the protective film still on it. I just get the project sized sheets of acrylic at Home Depot and leave either one or both sides of the film attached.

#430 26 days ago

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A satisfactory solution, with the attaching lead having enough length to reach any location of course.

Used a piece of scrap plexiglass, something I generally don't use on a playfield and no worries about conducting electricity. So yes, more stuff floating around the shop.

#431 26 days ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

The simplest diffuser is plastic with the protective film still on it. I just get the project sized sheets of acrylic at Home Depot and leave either one or both sides of the film attached.

The stuff I was using works well... if a little further away. Its light diffuser from a 2 x 2 troffer light assembly from work. We replaced 78 florescent units with LED fixtures and most got sent off to the recycling but I saved a few sheets as it looked useful.

For those not in the trades; troffer lamp is the flush indirect lights you see in office ceilings that are either 2 x 2 or 2 x 4 configuration among the ceiling tiles.

#432 26 days ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

The simplest diffuser is plastic with the protective film still on it. I just get the project sized sheets of acrylic at Home Depot and leave either one or both sides of the film attached.

A piece of cloudy milk jug does not do too bad, either.

#433 26 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

A piece of cloudy milk jug does not do too bad, either.

The nice thing about the troffer stuff is it had a bunch of pyramids molded in like bike reflectors, really breaks the light up.

#434 26 days ago

Fooling with light shields. Started with a quick unit made with cardboard. Note the match unit.

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#435 26 days ago

For the match lamp I popped in a light shield that was purchased for Flash Gordon.

It was not very effective till I put some tape just on the top and even then lots of light bleed in around the sides. I could disable the lower light strip as nothing much is lit up down there for Seawitch.

I had considered individual trimmers for each strip so they could be tuned for each backglass but considered that unnecessary complexity.

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#436 25 days ago

Future expansion sound module.

Chuckle.

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#437 25 days ago

Installed.

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#438 24 days ago

Back to grunt work!

1) opened up holes in playfield for poppers. Of interest the DE bases I was using for sizing are slightly larger than the new assemblies from Pinball Life. Good thing I did not get crazy.

2) block sanded playfield pretty aggressively and filled some inserts.

3) repainted a white area I was dissatisfied with, some filler bleeding through. Fixed!

#439 24 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Of interest the DE bases I was using for sizing are slightly larger than the new assemblies from Pinball Life.

THat's interesting. I'll need to measure my OG Sterns and see how they match up.

#440 23 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

THat's interesting. I'll need to measure my OG Sterns and see how they match up.

2.50" on the dot for DE LAH, 2.48" for PBL.

Not much but I could feel it when testing. The DE unit would have a very snug fit, the other you could feel slop around.

Oh and I used the router with a metal carbide bit, worked great. Not a large aggressive tooth pattern like wood bits. Spun around the hole 4 or 5 times and then finished with a flapper wheel. Nice.

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#441 23 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

For the match lamp I popped in a light shield that was purchased for Flash Gordon.
It was not very effective till I put some tape just on the top and even then lots of light bleed in around the sides. I could disable the lower light strip as nothing much is lit up down there for Seawitch.
I had considered individual trimmers for each strip so they could be tuned for each backglass but considered that unnecessary complexity.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Try painting the outside of the FG lamp shield with silver paint. Good old bumper silver paint blocks light perfectly. Although it’s not necessary, You could even paint white over the silver if you wanted the look.

#442 23 days ago
Quoted from 29REO:

Try painting the outside of the FG lamp shield with silver paint. Good old bumper silver paint blocks light perfectly. Although it’s not necessary, You could even paint white over the silver if you wanted the look.

I have a few ideas cooking, 3d printer on the horizon I think and will just print them out in black PLA. Also going to do location switching for the backglass light strips for further tuning.

Making a "universal cab" has its unique challenges.

#443 23 days ago

More future expansion ideas..

A part is on the way to speed one facet of the project up thanks to a Pinsider!

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#444 22 days ago

Going over the wiring diagrams, looks like the small aux board and large aux board have the same control and power wiring.

Excellent.

#445 22 days ago

have you thought about https://www.ezpinball.com/ for the cab?

#446 22 days ago
Quoted from SonOfaDiddly:

have you thought about https://www.ezpinball.com/ for the cab?

Nope, already owned this one.

#447 22 days ago
Quoted from SonOfaDiddly:

have you thought about https://www.ezpinball.com/ for the cab?

How much do they cost? The website is not forthcoming.

#448 22 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

How much do they cost? The website is not forthcoming.

they used to have pricing info; they were $750 but i imagine like everything else the price of plywood has gone through the roof

#449 22 days ago

What maybe the only William's part on the whole pin.

Stout latches. And yes it's going to get painted back there.

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#450 22 days ago

Clear on playfield inserts are still soft so sanded and painted the hinges, installed them for test fitting and installed the latch.

Hopefully this weekend will be laying down another coat of clear.

There are 606 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 13.

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