I suspect it's the wiring run from the left flipper to the upper left flipper as the outhole wiring follows this route.

Since I made the switch and power harness seperate units fairly easy to isolate them.

I have a handful of EOS caps from William's applications, might chuck them on at the same time. Can't hurt and will extend the life of the switches.

It's very very minor issue, but would be nice to eliminate.

Version 2 left.

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Always use transfer paper!

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Right side, version 2.

Better.

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Let's give this a try.

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You know when you have a good game going..

Edit: And then she spanks you!

1.1 million on the first ball, everything lit and even collect an extra ball!

End game with 1.2 million points.

bitch.

Oh, and I think poppers are fixed.

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I kid you not, this made the problem go away.

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Since I made the various harness pieces separate it was easy to unbundle the power and activation lines from the switch and lamp matrix lines. I had stanchions left from the Last Action Hero harness so I used those to raise the power wiring away from the switch matrix to no avail.

Did not make any difference, matter of fact it might have made it a little worse! The right popper joined the party time to time during testing!

I had some Williams 2.2uF flipper caps rattling around my parts totes and I installed them on the lower flippers and played several games, I did not notice any irregular popper activity. I'll monitor and report back after a few more days play testing.

Gave her blue eyes, not that you can really see them.

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2.2uF 250V non polarity cap hooked across the EOS switch.

I ran mine on the flipper coil terminal end- power feed terminal and center terminal. The power feed terminal will have two wires on it, the other runs down to the EOS.

For $2.50 each worth giving a try. Extend the life of your EOS at least.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C2.2M250VA-NP

Another item checked off!

All I have left is lower cab graphics, 3 cab/leg protectors to make and pickup 2 stainless bolts for the coin door.

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For the couple of bucks it will cost give it a try! I played several games after posting last night and can say with certainty there was not a single errant pop.

It actually seemed to make it worse having them stood off.

I am planning on putting them back to some degree but using much shorter separators. I don't like having them that far away from the playfield in case you have to put the playfield on a bench they tend to break.

Another item off the list.

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Tall DE wire supports replaced by 3/4" spacers and loops.

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Finally another MPU crash! Will post results in an hour.

Quench

Been playing for an hour or two to see if I could get game to randomly set off a popper after moving the power/signal lines back towards the main harness and it crashed out.

1) Flippers were still active, both sets.

2) Controlled lamps were out.

3) GI was on.

4) LED displays were 100% dead!

5) No LED on MPU

No warning lights on Altek SDB.

Rebooting the MPU by pushing the reset button brought everything back up.

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I just put a line of E6000 glue on each one before attaching the legs, they will stay put when the legs are off.

Setting aside the MPU crashing finally, lets talk about random pops.

I took off all the tall Data East wiring supports that were spacing out the power/activation harness from the switch matrix. They were replaced with 3/4" nylon spacers and 1.25" #8 screws and loom loops to hold the wire. Looks more period correct and doesn't stick out as much.

I then proceeded to play the game like it owed me money and personally insulted my wife for good measure.

At best I thought I heard one pop bumper activation and even then I'm not sure if it was that or just the sound board catching up with the gameplay. Flippers were monkey hammered for dear life and I did not note any pop activation. To be on the safe side and consistent, I'm adding 2.2uF 250v NP caps to the upper flippers as well.

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On the MPU I'm on the fence. Tempted to toss the Alltek board in on general principle, however if I do so I can't run any custom code. Regardless the problem needs to be addressed and I'm leaning towards there is some issue with the Weebly board. 5 volt is rock solid and the MPU 5V supply and grounds have been isolated from everything else.

Tonight I'll pop out the socketed chips from the Weebly MPU, make sure they are clean and reseat them and see if I can replicate the problem again. The MPU is clearly jumping the tracks running the program, this is the forth time it has done so locking up.

I have a video post lock up but it only shows what I have described in detail. MPU led out, displays dead, controlled lamps dead.

Weebly crashed twice. Pulled board, Alltek in.

Examined Weebly board, removed and inspected all sockected chips. Nothing unusual spotted.

Crashed twice after reinstalling.

Pictures of Weebly board.

Andrew any ideas of what I can check? barakandl

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Just some thoughts before bed:

1) Alltek is in and the wife and I hammered away for 16 games, no problems noted yet.

2) Thinking of installing the Weebly MPU in Flash Gordon and playing the snot out of it to see if the Weebly MPU fails as it did in Seawitch.

This could be a false test though. If it fails, then we can safely state there is an issue with the MPU. If it doesn't fail, there still could be an issue but it could be in relation to running the Seawitch software. Have to see if Seawitch fails in the same way with the Alltek or not.

3) Installed the two missing coin door bolts.

4) Reinstalled the original backglass for the Pintastic show and turned down the backglass lighting a bit to make the flaking less obvious. I'd rather have the old glass in going to the show in case of rapid temp changes causing delamination or some other misfortune.

Better to leave the new one at home in the heated garage.

16 games with the Alltek this morning, no crash.

So here is where I'm at in regards to cabinet art- This is just a rough outline that needs much embellishment yet.

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rough art (resized).jpg

Yes, I want to tie it in with the art on the head. This is me just doodling this morning to get the mental juices flowing.

Starting to round out some ideas. Need to figure out how to do a white outline around the Stern logo to match the Bally one.

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I think were moving in the right direction..

This is my favorite so far, just needs to be fleshed out.

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I'm trying to not have too many colors so have to work with the palette I already have aside from maybe one extra. Not sure the red in bally is going to stay but it looks good, the light blue gets lost in the white border.

So far I like Version 3 best, this one I tried getting them on the same plain mindful I have to mirror image for the other side.

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When I get home I'm going to isolate elements from this cab, I think I'm going to end up with a graphic along these lines.

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I think we are 95% there gents.

I think I want to reduce the size a tick and call it good.

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I think this is the final guys, back from store with the vinyl and will do cut files in the morning.

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Lot of different ways to get close, either stencils or just cut decals. One of the reasons I wanted a cutter is to do my own stencils. I like Pinball Pimp but at $180 a pop and the rate I go through pins a cutter will pay for itself.

24 games with the Alltek Mpu, not a single burp.

You didn't think I was just going to slap the same decal on the other side did you? That would be lazy.

About 3 hours worth of work right there making a different decal, totally worth it.

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I'd like to try slochar new Seawitch code, but I'll have to use the Weebly board.. which is not reliable in my Seawitch.

So far the Alltek board has just been humming right along without issue in Seawitch.

Also so far the Weebly board has worked fine in Flash Gordon, but I only have played 6 games.

I may convert a Bally -35 board here to MPU-200 spec and drop the Seawitch software in as a test.

At a loss why the Weebly crashes and I have not heard back from Andrew.

Chop chop! Times awasting!

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