(Topic ID: 134652)

Seawitch flippers get weak even after new assemblies

By patrickvc

7 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by KenH
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders


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#1 7 years ago

I have installed new flipper assemblies and while I don't have another SW to reference to the flipper assemblies still feel clunky like they bounce back a little after they flip. My Nineball is nice and smooth with older worn assemblies on it. Anyway I have adjusted the EOS switches, adjusted and filed the cabinet switches, and it seems to me that with new assemblies I should be able to make a nice strong shot around the rip tide with the left flipper. Now I am aware the shot geometry on this game isn't the greatest, but I watch videos of gameplay and feel that my flippers just don't react nice snappy and strong. I have noticed I get really big blue arcs off the EOS switches and the gi flickers when I hit the flippers. This game was dead when I got it and most flipper stuff was gone so I don't have any prior gameplay to compare it to. I have thought of converting over to WPC style on the bottom two assemblies to get some more smooth action, I am just posting to see if I am overlooking something.

#2 7 years ago

The coils are a bit hot when touching them after 20 games over the paper.

#3 7 years ago

Are the flipper coils wired correctly?

#4 7 years ago

I believe so. Where could I have screwed them up where they still would work? Just curious. I will double check

#5 7 years ago

I would replace the cabinet switches. I replace all mine and I notice better performance over the originals even though I've filed them flat. You can install the yellow 2.2K caps across the EOS switch to help with the spark.

For max power, adjust the EOS switch so it opens to about 3/32" (somewhere between 1/16" and 1/8"). Adjust by pushing the plunger against the coil stop with your finger and do not touch any part of the linkage. If you adjust by turning the flipper pawl all the way or pushing in on the plunger link you're not taking into account the slop in the linkage and you take the chance of the EOS not opening at all.

And if you put WPC mechs in the game the Classic Stern Police will be after you

#6 7 years ago

they appear to be correct

#7 7 years ago

I will start by replacing the cab switches. I did notice better improvement when I oiled the spinner. That thing must have been dry. That flap is another issue in itself. It takes out all ball momentum when hit. The only pet peave I have now is the flipper bounce when it goes back to rest. I hate that.

#8 7 years ago

This is a common classic Stern problem, I find.

I've often wondered if you can use Bally parts, except the bats, and get a stronger flipper.
Even on Stern games that have strong flips, they feel soft and mushier than an excellent tuned Bally.

Id love to hear more on this, from those who have tried this??

#9 7 years ago

Exactly my thoughts too. Classic bally is much better I do have a link kit I will swap and try it

#10 7 years ago

Check this thread out and see if it applies to you.

Basically, poorly designed coil stops in some of the new kits cause bounce back issues. You can solve the issue by buying new, non-kit, coil stops.


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