(Topic ID: 331717)

Sealing back of playfield

By Ollulanus

1 year ago



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  • 10 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Ollulanus
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    #1 1 year ago

    Starting my first full swap to a new repro playfield. I see mention of sealing the unfinished back, simple enough...just curious though:

    1. Why?
    2. Any reason one sealant/paint option is better than another? I have danish oil handy from from other woodworking projects I'd probably use unless there's a reason to use something specific.

    #2 1 year ago

    Sealing it helps cleaning future dirt off easily.
    Personally, I would just leave it as is.

    #3 1 year ago

    I would just use matte poly.

    #4 1 year ago

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/20#post-1788273
    "A playfield that is coated on both sides has much less chance of ever warping. It puts a more equal tension on both sided of the wood, and it slows the entrance and exit of moisture."

    #5 1 year ago

    Further to what others have mentioned:

    - Many years ago I bought some beautiful but expensive wood framed windows, doors and moldings for my house. Part of my job was to apply several coats of finish to all the bare wood.
    - An older professional carpenter who helped design, make and install them gave some good advice. He said to make sure and finish both sides and edges as doing only one side will cause uneven weathering over time.
    - Moisture, humidity and dryness may cause successive swelling and shrinkage episodes to any unfinished portions. You may not perceive this until the damage is done.

    He said to think of it like a car's paint and what would happen if you just painted either the top or bottom surface.

    #6 1 year ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/20#post-1788273
    "A playfield that is coated on both sides has much less chance of ever warping. It puts a more equal tension on both sided of the wood, and it slows the entrance and exit of moisture."

    I read through most of that thread but totally missed that, thanks. Makes plenty of sense.

    Quoted from ManyQuarters:

    Moisture, humidity and dryness may cause successive swelling and shrinkage episodes to any unfinished portions. You may not perceive this until the damage is done

    Good explanation, thanks. Think I'll just use the Danish oil as it's easy to put on without making a mess and I've got it handy. Wouldn't want to accidentally get something in the inserts while I was at it.

    #7 1 year ago

    How do you guys seal the back without getting the varnish in the inserts and what do you use. Op mentioned danish oil

    #8 1 year ago

    If you are careful with a foam roller. I have done hundreds of playfields with gray interior latex, 2 coats. Very few mistakes which you can clean the lense with a q-tip. I do one coat, let quickly dry, & apply second coat.

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from mmr61184:

    How do you guys seal the back without getting the varnish in the inserts and what do you use. Op mentioned danish oil

    Danish oil is easy to work with: put on a latex glove, dip a rag in an wipe on. You wanna build it up wet, then give 15 and wipe it dry. Little 400 grit between coats of you want it nice and smooth. If you're doing it light and gentle with a cloth I'd probably do 3 or so coats, but you can hit it again in an hour so it's no biggie

    #10 1 year ago

    Two coats of Danish oil. This stuff always looks so nice on anything

    16774352913758959340888950410358 (resized).jpg16774352913758959340888950410358 (resized).jpg

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