(Topic ID: 221089)

Seal Backglass after touch-up?

By spinout

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by spinout
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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#1 1 year ago

I just completed my first backglass Krylon Triple Thick sealing and touch up.... and thank you all for this place and the wealth of knowledge you all have provided here in the many posts!

I read as many threads and watched as many youtube videos as I could before starting as this scared the heck about me. I followed Clay's guide as well... http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index1.htm#touch

First, Krylon triple thick is amazing! I emptied a can on this backglass with several coats. 24 hours later I felt so much more confident after it dried, everything was locked in place under a crystal clear layer and I was ready to start touching up. It is crazy how well that worked. NICE!

My backglass was pretty bad... anything yellow or pink was about 65%-75% gone (not to mention half of a guys face in orange)... you could see the bulbs. Even the black of the tires was cracked everywhere.

Following Clay's guide and the general consensus in posts that Createx paints were the way to go, I spent many hours touching up one color at a time and experimenting with transparent paints, making opaque paints transparent etc, wiping away, trying again... and again.... what a giant time consuming pain this was. Also, he wasn't kidding - the acrylic paint retarder is key to getting the best translucency -without it, don't even start. Minor note - it also makes it take almost 2 days to dry since that was its intended purpose.

But in the end I am happy with the result as it WAY better than it was!

So the question that I have now that can't find the answer to....

Now that it is touched up with Createx and I am happy with it, do I seal over all of it again with Krylon triple thick, or just leave it with the acrylics over the Krylon as the acrylic isn't going anywhere anytime soon?

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#2 1 year ago

You could probably use Flotrol as your retarder. Works extremely well with enamel paints.

Post a pic of the front of our glass.

#3 1 year ago

Well, in the end I decided to triple thick one last wet coat to lock all my touchups in place. It dried fairly quickly so I got it back on the game same day. I am happy with the result.

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#4 1 year ago

Looks awesome!

#5 1 year ago

Absolutely Awesome!

#6 1 year ago

Thanks all! It was exactly 1 week from initial krylon triple thick seal to final triple thick seal after all touch ups. I think my wife got tired of me disappearing to the basement each day for painting. I probably worked on it 1-2 hours a day for 5 days. Here are the before picks (these were taken 7 months ago and I swear it got worse between then and now--nudging during play probably dropped paint each game!).

When lit, you could see the bulbs/bulb filament clear as day behind the main #6 car as well as the 2nd #20 car. Notice half of orange/yellow fan guy's face was totally gone. So much better now.

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1 week later
#7 11 months ago

And lastly, just an observation and oddity here.

I noticed the orange fan guy's face, arms and body are all in a non-silvered translucent area on the backglass. However, on this machine there are NO BULBS behind him... or even close. It would have been cool if there were.

I am thinking the artist and the engineers were not all on the same page as the orange fan guy didn't need to be translucent given no bulbs. I think the artist thought there was going to be bulbs behind him, but in the end there weren't. Just kind of funny... and it made touching up orange guy that much easier since the opaque parts are way easier to match than anything translucent on the backglass. Then again, if he was silvered, his ink probably wouldn't have fallen off and needing to be touched-up 43 years later.

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