(Topic ID: 135010)

Scorpion (system 6) game not starting issue

By MalikyeMoon

8 years ago



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#1 8 years ago

Hello All,

After connecting the missing wire, I am back to my original issue as it existed when I bought the pin. The unit powers up fine, all diagnostic tests succeed (solenoids, etc.). The MPU lights flash briefly and stay off when tested. No obvious board, connector or wire issues that I can see visually.

The game does not start. Apparently the issue was intermittent before I picked it up (it either would work fine, or the "ball in play" light was flashing, and it would not start). I assumed on pickup this was a bad ball trough switch.

I checked the trough switches, and they all seem to react. I have manually massaged them to look for an impact. I manually played with the start switch and wires, but unless the EOS is totally shot and I just cant see it, I dont see anything wrong with the contact. Manually making contact and adjusting wires, checking connections doesnt help. All connectors checked and reseated.

It goes thru all the adjustment and diagnostic tests just fine. No lights stay on the MPU board indicating a chip lock, etc.

One note: I cannot get the settings to change in the adjustments menu using the start switch. I made sure it has credits (no longer on freeplay after I yanked the batteries of course off). I replaced the MPU AA's and checked the solder and wiring to the external battery rig.

Not being able to change settings in the menu via the start button makes me think again that it is the start button switch. Anyone know how to easily test this theory? I have a replacement type that will work among my pile I am sure, but would rather not pull out the soldering gun until I have eliminated other options.

Thanks for your input!

Mike

#2 8 years ago

Start/Credit/Coin are all on the same switch matrix row (or is it column? I don't have my prints handy). It sounds like you either have a wire broke, a bad solder joint behind the connector on the board or a bad connection at that IDC connector.

Look at you switch matrix chart in the manual.
Find the similarity in the row/column.
Look in the prints at where that row (or column) ties into the logic boards (driver board) and wiggle that connector while hitting start.

#3 8 years ago

Can you add credit with the coin switches.

#4 8 years ago

Make sure the cabinet harness is attached to the back box harness. If that is good and it is going into attract mode, then I would take another look at the trough switches. Get some non-coated thick paper (Not inkjet paper) and put it between the contacts and squeeze them together while pulling the paper. If you are getting black residue, keep doing it. Repeat for all the other trough switches and the start switch.

To put back on freeplay, go to adjustment 18 and set it to "00".

#5 8 years ago

Thanks all. i can add credits with the coin doors witches manually yes. i cannot adjust to freeplay as the button is not responding, but i do know how thanks!

ill try the harness/wire/connector lineup first and see if i can find anything loose and semi responsive, and then ill clean the contacts with cardstock (which ido while shopping out anyways) and check the trough again.

Thanks for all the helpfuls uggestions. ill post back after those two steps.

1 week later
#6 8 years ago

I resoldered the top and bottom wires to the leaf switch behind the start button, and it started working right away. The next time I turned it on it did not work again. I got it working once, and then no workie again.

I traced the row/column (purple/brown, red/whatever) to the connectors on the boards. I tried messing with the wires, etc. I ended up pulling apart the two boards and reseating the 42-pin connection, and reseating the J connector for that row. The machine started again.

This time however, the second any solenoid/switch was hit after ball launch, instant tilt. It did that repeatedly. Now it doesnt start again.

I am guessing that board has issues, or that connector mount has issues. Since I really want to bullet proof this one, and my board rebuilding skills are infantile, I purchased the rottendog MPU/driver combo board and a new PSU. Will see if that clears up all the issues when they arrive this week. If not, I'll be replacing that leaf switch, and maybe the trough switch as well.

Stay tuned!

#7 8 years ago

The header pins posts on the solder side of the board are very short. It is hard to just reheat the solder and good a good joint. They typically need to be replaced so you can make proper solder joints.

#8 8 years ago

The trough switches on System 6 games are legendary for their defective nature.

in the late 70s / early 80s Williams received a ton of defective switches that have one blade installed backwards - instead of contact to contact, they go contract to rivet. They work fine for years but after a decade or so they will only work intermitently and then not all - no matter how you have them gapped or how much cleaning you do with a business card.

Every single Williams system 6 game I've ever had was filled with these defective switches throughout the game. I just repaired the lane change switch in my right flipper assembly as the lane change was no longer reliable.

This could well be your issue. The trough switches are especially susceptible to this issue because the balls sit in them for long periods at a time - and if all three aren't working perfectly your game won't start. You don't even need to replace the switch, you can take the stack apart and flip the rivet side over and you are back in business.

It's very easy to tell if you have this issue with visual inspection. Rivet to contact is easy to see.

#9 8 years ago

Nice tips thanks Guys! I'll dive into it later this week and let you know how the progress goes. Thanks!

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