Toledo, OH
Hello,
I'm having an issue with an EM machine where when player one scores 100 points the score reels for both players roll over. However player two works properly. Does anyone know what could be triggering this
Thank you
(Topic ID: 221740)
Linked Games
Double Barrel
Williams, 1961
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I had an issue one where scores were registering on two different players , it was a missing spring on a reset relay ( 4 player game )
If a 2 player game mebbe a missing spring on a player-up relay or improperly gaped leaf switch
link the game & possibly someone with the same game in their collection can chime-in
I'd check the switches on the 2nd player relay. When activated that relay routes the scoring to player 2. When not activated, the scoring goes to player one.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/709/Williams_1961_Double_Barrel_Schematic_Diagram_continuous.pdf
It started recently. The 2nd player 100 point reel was having difficulty resetting so I looked at the switches, and found one was really bent. I straightened it out. Now it resets fine, but I'm having the issue where it counts points everytime player one gets 100 points.
If on this switch on the 2nd Player relay, the long blade with the Black&White wire is contacting at the same time both the short blade with a Yellow&Red wire and the short blade with a Red&Yellow wire, the 1st & 2nd player 100 point Drum will activate together. Start by looking at the contact points and the solder tabs on that switch.
Quoted from Billup:If I put paper here. That seems to fix it
Then adjust that switch because it isn't opening when its relay energizes. FYI, one or two layers of paper is enough, and doesn't risk bending the contact blade.
Quoted from Billup:Player 2 send to get an extra hundred points now and then
If I'm understanding you, does the 100 Point relay activate when this happens?
Hi Howard.
This line of thinking may be way off base, but when I compare the wire colors you cited in Post # 7 to the switch wire colors where the OP placed the paper/unsoldered the wire, it doesn't seem (at least to my potentially poor eyes!) that they match? I expected to see a black & white wire to the middle blade, etc.
It looks like the wire colors you cited possibly match to the switch which is second from the right, and it it looks like the left blade of that blade trio has been replaced per the slightly different blade color/contact nipple/bakelite color, etc.
Is there any chance the issue lies in the lugs/wires of that second to the right switch (and possibly the wire the OP just unsoldered leads to that root-cause switch)?
Quoted from Billup:I unsoldered that wire and everything is working. I guess I just leave it that way...?
I wouldn't. Something is shorting in some switch. Get a good strong light on the relay and look for bent tabs and loose wires.
Quoted from AvidListener:I expected to see a black & white wire to the middle blade, etc.
I agree but I can't really see the wire colors in the pictures.
AvidListener is right about the wire color. The one I took off is yellow with orange. Which in the schematics should be controlling the 1000pt light? Not sure why this is being the issue. Also the light still comes in when appropriate, even with this wire detached.
Thank you both for all your help
No offense intended, but for me to help you I need you to work slowly, carefully, and with good lighting.
Can you find the make/break switch with the wire colors I mentioned?
Quoted from HowardR:on the 2nd Player relay, the long blade with the Black&White wire is contacting at the same time both the short blade with a Yellow&Red wire and the short blade with a Red&Yellow wire
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