(Topic ID: 6775)

Scoop wear.. no cliffy


By mystic

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 36 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by mystic
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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    IMG_0175.jpg
    sc3.jpg
    sc2.jpg
    sc1.jpg
    Scoop4.jpg
    Scoop3.jpg
    Scoop2.jpg
    Scoop1.jpg

    #1 7 years ago

    My Baywatch scoop has some serious wear around it. Apparently there's a Cliffy Protector for every DMD game but this one. Any ideas here? Will one for another game fit? I don't see dimensions on Cliff's website or I'd just measure and see if I could find one close...

    #2 7 years ago

    I know nothing about cliffy's,however; you could just contact Cliffy and see if he thinks you could substitute one of his protectors.

    #3 7 years ago

    If there is serious wear, a cliffy won't do much. You need to repair it first with bondo or wood repair stuff, build it back up, or the cliffy will dent and fold and look like crap soon after installing.

    They are a great product, but they require prep on bad scoops. A lot of scoop damage on Sega/DE, more so on DE, are deep, and cliffy's won't even cover them, as they seem to wear much worse than b/w games.

    #4 7 years ago

    Mystic, I'm not even close to covering all DMD era pins I need playfields to work from and to date none has surfaced for Baywatch, or a myriad other games.

    As for cross compatibility I've found extremely few that could be considered generic. Only things like drop target banks or switchs lots seem to be generic. It seems each games scoop are proproietary

    #5 7 years ago

    Cliffy, Can you built them from measurements or do you need a board? I can measure down to .0001.

    #6 7 years ago

    I figured you might chime in. Thanks for the info cliffy. Anyone else have an idea how to reduce the wear once I epoxy this sucker? Ill post a pic later.

    #7 7 years ago
    Quoted from mystic:

    Anyone else have an idea how to reduce the wear once I epoxy this sucker? Ill post a pic later.

    You can use 3 mil or better Mylar as a gap stop. It acts as a cushion. Pinball Pal's Stealth patches would work too, although it is thinner, 2 mils I believe. It has the advantage of being removable.

    #8 7 years ago
    Quoted from mystic:

    Anyone else have an idea how to reduce the wear once I epoxy this sucker? Ill post a pic later.

    Send your playfield to cliffy to make a protector so we can all use it!

    #9 7 years ago
    Quoted from absocountry2:

    Send your playfield to cliffy to make a protector so we can all use it!

    I think he'd need a minty playfield in order to create the protector.

    #10 7 years ago
    Quoted from absocountry2:

    Cliffy, Can you build them from measurements or do you need a board? I can measure down to .0001.

    Some people are incredibly good at making templates for me (wink, wink)
    In order of preferrence, then;
    Manufacturers CAD drawing (hey, it does happen!)
    NOS or new playfield
    Used good playfield
    2nd party playfield scans
    2nd party templates
    2nd party measurements only (very difficult to get accuracy, obstructions, etc.)

    #11 7 years ago

    Do you have any instruction for us to make a template? I mean if I had a pin that didnt have one. I wouldnt mind working with you to get a good fit/working one.

    #12 7 years ago
    Quoted from Cliffy:

    Some people are incredibly good at making templates for me (wink, wink)

    If I were to make a template, what material would I use? I could go as far as making a mould and turn that into a cast. Would something like that work?

    #13 7 years ago
    Quoted from absocountry2:

    If I were to make a template, what material would I use? I could go as far as making a mould and turn that into a cast. Would something like that work?

    First I need pics of the scoop area to determine if it's even doable.

    If it is you need to find some thin rigid cardstock like a manila file folder, cig carton, et al.
    Remove whatever needs to be removed top and bottom so you can tape the cardstock to the bottom of the playfield.

    You need a SHARP pencil and carefully trace from the top of the playfield down through the bottom of the hole. Accuracy is critical. The bottom of the hole will not be worn which is why we use that as our guide.

    Now capture any possible mount points like post holes and wood screw holes. If possible use the screws themselves. With through holes for posts you can use a drill bit that matches the hole and just twist by hand.

    When done you can scan it with a 6 inch steel rule in the scan at 200 dpi 1, ie, no scaling. Or just mail the template to me and we go from there.

    That's how I've done a lot of them and the best templateers can even get it right the first shot which reduces metal and laser time on my end

    #14 7 years ago

    Alright, a little more confused. I didn't really notice the wear until last night because it's actually behind and under the upper flipper and I'm even sure how it would wear away there. Looks as if a large chunk went missing but it's smooth.. the ball shoots out to the side, not up towards the flipper. Anyway, some shots with the flipper open and closed. And don't worry, new rubbers are on the way.

    Scoop1.jpg Scoop2.jpg Scoop3.jpg Scoop4.jpg

    #15 7 years ago

    the boobs are nice too.. sorry.. i meant "bump"

    #16 7 years ago

    Holy.... ain't never seen wear like that before! Thats gonna need half a stick of Quik Wood epoxy putty.

    #17 7 years ago

    yeah, kind of strange. Not sure how it could have happened. The good news is that it's barely noticable as the flipper covers nearly the entire area. Would like to see someone else's Baywatch in that area to see what it normally looks like.

    #18 7 years ago

    WOW! That is wierd!

    Cliffy, I still have your email. I might need to see if I can pul off a nice template. I really want to protect my WWF and it has two holes that need your protectors.

    #19 7 years ago
    Quoted from absocountry2:

    WOW! That is wierd!

    Cliffy, I still have your email. I might need to see if I can pul off a nice template. I really want to protect my WWF and it has two holes that need your protectors.

    If I get that WW, I will as well, try to make a perfect template for you and be your beta test subject

    #20 7 years ago

    to me, it sort of looks like a defect in the wood. almost like a knot in the wood was there and it busted off, leaving that void. just a guess.

    #21 7 years ago
    Quoted from doublezo1:

    to me, it sort of looks like a defect in the wood. almost like a knot in the wood was there and it busted off, leaving that void. just a guess.

    I agree. I bet that's exactly what happened.

    #22 7 years ago

    Where's the Baywatch helicopter mod Guy with some comparable insight. Sorry, on my phone and can't look up his username.

    #23 7 years ago

    Ya know that almost looks like it's supposed to be smooth and beveled like that. Like for example if the ball got behind the flipper somehow during play it might get hung up on that backing plate on the scoop hole. The bevel would direct the ball into the scoop? Anyone else with a Baywatch to confirm yes or no???

    #24 7 years ago
    Quoted from mystic:

    My Baywatch scoop has some serious wear around it. Apparently there's a Cliffy Protector for every DMD game but this one. Any ideas here? Will one for another game fit? I don't see dimensions on Cliff's website or I'd just measure and see if I could find one close...

    I could make a crude joke about Pamela Anderson and hole wear but I...will.... resist.... aaaaahhhh.

    #25 7 years ago

    My baywatch looks exactly the same under the upper flipper I will try and get a few pics after work

    #26 7 years ago
    Quoted from tpn2011:

    My Baywatch looks exactly the same under the upper flipper I will try and get a few pics after work

    That's what I thought. It probably helps direct the ball into the scoop easier.

    #27 7 years ago

    Ah that's what I hoping!

    #28 7 years ago

    My Scared Stiff has that same spot on the top side of the skill shot. It's designed that way.

    Your scoop hole is in great condition! Still, I'd get a Cliffy set as soon as they are available.

    #29 7 years ago

    here are the pics of the same area like i said mine has the same bare wood hope this will be helpfull !!!!!!

    sc1.jpg sc2.jpg sc3.jpg

    #30 7 years ago

    I found some pics on the interwebbz and by golly that groove is there on all pics I could find. Bizarre, to say the least!

    #31 7 years ago

    I guess it's not uncommon. Here's what it looks like on Scared Stiff (with a Cliffy installed):

    IMG_0175.jpg

    #32 7 years ago

    It would make it easer to shoot into the back side of the upper flipper and let it drop in the hole.

    #33 7 years ago

    Very interesting. You learn something new every day.

    #34 7 years ago
    Quoted from mystic:

    Where's the Baywatch helicopter mod Guy with some comparable insight

    Mine looks the same as yours mystic. I think it's designed that way. Sorry I chimed in so late, I somehow missed this thread.

    #35 7 years ago

    any tips on this question from my other thread dn?

    "Question though, there are two red-domed flasher lamps off the playfield in the back below the backbox (kind of hanging down). There appears to be black plastic apron type device which "houses" them. Three screws on the bottom and then it's stapled at the top. Is there a way to get behind this and replace those lamps without removing the staples?"

    Tore it down and rebuilt it last night. Just realized the bulbs in the upper GI weren't bad, the whole upper GI is out. Fuses on PPB are good (replaced them), reseated connector on PPB. Nothing. I thought I saw a thread on this earlier but I can't find it. Planning on testing power to the string this afternoon to make sure they're getting power, if not, guess I'm reflowing some headers?

    #36 7 years ago

    reseated connector on main power board. Upper GI works. Wooo hoo!

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