I just use an Android app called "Pinball Leveller" and it has helped me level out all my games when they first get setup. Just make sure and calibrate it on a known level surface first.

So, why aren't the speaker grill lights doing anything in this video? I bought my R&M from the original buyer and for some insane reason he didn't get the light up speakers and I hate it.

Nice! Thanks for sharing the good news. I'll have a similar Spooky lineup when 224 comes home, except I've got UM.

Power, and many other basic settings were NOT in UM/HWN until this most recent update. So for the last couple of years there was no power (or any other) adjustments available. Now they are all there.

I own two Spooky games, a R&M I bought from the original owner and a UM BSE we bought NIB through Kingpin. We have had no major issues with either game and the minor ones we had were resolved very quickly (and FREE) by Spooky (both issues were LED related so had no impact on actual gameplay). We ordered a Scooby day one from the same distro and can't wait.

To ease your worries, look at ANY other pinball machine's club thread and see about the issues they all faced. These are complex machines and there are LOTS of moving parts, not everything can be perfect everytime. But, at least in the case of Spooky they will bend over backwards to fix any issues IF you face any. Also, keep in mind the bias of Pinside, there are over 100 games out there and maybe 6 stories of concerning issues. People are FAR more likely to complain when they have a problem then they are to praise when everything works.

If you aren't taking out a second mortgage to get Scooby you can rest assured your game will be great and your service from Spooky will be stellar.

That is a terrible experience! I am happy I have never had anything like that happen on NIB or Used games. I am very curious - and think it would be very telling - to know how they support you in fixing all these issues. Have you called Customer Service? Were they helpful? Do you expect the parts you need to fix this in the next few days? I ask because I still think the service Spooky provides far outweighs ANY potential issues a new game might have ... But I am a biased Spooky owner

Newer games like Scooby have computers in them and Surges can kill computers. Plust your power supply on ALL games is at risk from a surge which will at least cost you down-time.

Pinball games sip power once they are booted up, the strain to your electrical circuits is during boot time. Like most computers and appliances Pinball tables will draw several AMPS upon boot for up to 30 seconds. So, what is important in this situation is staggering them as you turn them on. I have a separate smart plug for each game in my house and I either just boot up the one I want to play or have a little "sequence" I can run in my smart home app that will boot them all up with one minute delay.

Sounds like you had you home circuit breaker updated to do 20 amps per plug, typically it is 15 and so 3 machines max per outlet (to be booted simultaneously). With 20 amp you should be save with up to FOUR machines. BUT, I am not an electrician, I just don't want to pop a circuit because I needed to boot them all at once.

Just keep in mind that you still have a while to wait. I got the "final bill" email 2 weeks ago (for 224) but as of today haven't heard anything more on shipping or progress.

Not 30 minutes after I posted it had been two weeks since the notification, I got an email with the shipping charges invoice on SD224 so hopefully they are moving along fast over there. My fingers are crossed for a shipping notice next week, even though I expect it will be a couple more.

But the serious question is where did you get that key holder? I need that

Lol, I'm definitely a fan boy too, have a bunch of wearable merch and a few Fang Club things. Not to mention a few of their games.

I don't have my SD yet, but this happened in my UM and it was a simple fix. Near the plastic nut that holds the button on should have a short wood screw to keep it from turning. Look at the other button and see if there's something missing on the one breaking.

Awesome, getting so close to 224. I'm guessing it's getting made this week so hopefully I get that sweet shipping notification soon.

Just got the notice that #224 is on the truck headed for Colorado!!!

Our game shipped earlier this week and yesterday I got a call from R&L and they setup an "appointment" with me for Monday (like a cable installer) between 10a and 4p. But, my question is, how likely are they to actually keep that appointment? I need to arrange helpers, as there is NO way I'm getting a 300lb machine up the entry stairs (only 4) and into the house without help. But, on the other hand I have trouble trusting that appointment is real. Any insights? If the appointment holds 224 will be in my house Monday!!

When UM was delivered we got the delivery guy to wheel the game up to the bottom of the front stairs. He didn't seem interested in helping me get it inside and rushed off. But, if you do get their help, or even just hire some house movers, I agree that you should try and keep it on the pallet and in the box while bringing it in. I am lucky to have a couple of nearby Pinball friends who are FAR more experienced than I am who will be here to help Monday.

Well, R&L appointments are NOT guaranteed. I spent the weekend moving pins and getting ready for the delivery THEY scheduled for today but they called my about five minutes ago and said "the package didn't get to the terminal early enough to go out today" even though they've had it since Saturday. Hopefully the new appointment holds .

If so we'll be rocking Scooby TOMORROW!

This is the most important part! No NIB game is going to be perfect 100% of the time, the real difference between Spooky and the others is that Spooky WILL fix the problem right away and will bend over backwards to get you the stuff you need. I have a friend with an LE JJP GnR and he has multiple PF and part issues and so far JJP has only replied with radio silence, for years. I had an issue with my second hand, out of warranty, Rick and Morty and Spooky quickly replied got me up and running and sent me a free replacement part even though I fully expected to pay since I was out of warranty.

Got a very large package delivered a few minutes ago. Luckily it's nice out today as the movers are still 30 minutes out. I'll share more once I get it inside and set up.

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Okay, sorry I didn't see all your questions and I totally should have let you know the number. We got Scooby-Doo CE number 224 around noon today. An hour later the movers I hired got here (I have a bad back thanks to moving pinballs around) and they got it inside with no issues. I had them set it on my Harbor Freight table lift and they were done. I then lifted the table put on the legs and started a thorough inspection to see if there was any damage.

Only MINOR damage occurred inside the PF area, I have two cracked plastics, one of the black hands by the apron broke off and the plastic that covers the bravery meter was cracked. Spooky already boxed up replacements for me and I should have them soon.

The other two "issues" were more a matter of me taking a little time. One was the Backbox keys had slipped off the hook inside the coin door, AJ suggested they may be behind the power supply, turned out they were wedged between two of the habitrails on the right side. That is when I found my last issue, the orange ramp that connects to the apron had come unhooked from the standup and was wiggling around loose. BUT, all I had to do was screw that back in and the game is working PERFECT. No mechanical issues, did NOT need to adjust anything for the launch to work. Overall BEAUTIFUL game and after I have a few dozen more plays I will share my review.

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Wow, you all got worked up over the plastics. I'm sure the game was banged around a little in shipping - the pallet itself was missing a board. Also the R&L truck itself had a messed up gate lift - it wouldn't go all the way up - so he had to shove it around. The box was fine and the tip and tells were not blue inside the arrows.

Overall, the game is very well made and despite a rough journey is completely perfectly playable. I'm still getting a feel for it and learning the rules, but regardless of how the damage happened it did not ruin my experience or excitement. This game, while heavy as hell, is amazing.

Thanks BOTH for the offer. I went with movers because in rearranging all my other pins over the weekend - to make room for Scooby - I messed up by back pretty bad. I didn't feel bad "watching" the movers carry this beast into the house, but if it was friends or friendly strangers I wouldn't have been able to sit out the lifting part.

Next time I will make sure and ask before I pay movers. But, if you are in the Dever area I can HIGHLY recommend using "Three Men and a Duck Moving Services" the foreman even had extensive pinball moving experience and it took them all of 15 minutes - and they came out on less than 2 hours notice.

LoL, maybe he used creatine

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Glad for the bug fixes and I am sure that is the bulk of the hard work, but I am REALLY curious what "fun stuff" we can expect from the next update??

After a couple of days and a bunch of plays Scooby-Doo is AMAZING! So much fun, and so much potential for even more fun. We've had no problems so far.

I did take the "Flower magnet" idea and put some of those on some of the green parts. Also got some purple slime from Back alley (still debating how many flowers to keep on the coin door). I also got the rock trail which I'll install next time I take the glass off.
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As with all our games, we put a throw blanket over them to keep dust from accumulating. Here's Scooby-Doo and R&M covered up. Cheaper and better looking than the foam mats IMHO, but not as protective if you put things on your games
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Totally understand, I have an old yoga mat I put on a game (over the glass) if I'm working on the one next it. Or, if I'm working in or laying down the backbox. But these games are right inside the house so the blankets look pretty

Here is that one, there's a bunch of other options on Amazon too.

Warner Brothers Scooby-Doo, "Whole Gang" Micro Raschel Throw Blanket, 46" x 60", Multi Color https://a.co/d/eJ2PzUO

The Scooby-Doo monitor seems brighter than how it initially looked in UM and R&M. But, IMHO a few minor adjustments to the monitor settings helped a TON on the last two games. Haven't seen any need to change settings on SD yet.

My understanding is unless your over 6 feet tall the screen angles are fine. If you're a basketball player or something then the upgrade might be worthwhile.

I will try it out this afternoon and let you know how it goes. Only had four days on the original code, but still excited for Scooby Snack Multi Ball, I had 97 snacks in a game last night (hit my best so far of 2.5 million).

I installed the update over lunch, and it is MUCH easier and smoother than the updates for UM and RM. I did NOT lose my high scores and all the lower flipper hold power was set to "normal" by default so no more whine. I am excited to be done with work so I can deep dive into this update!

I'm pretty sure you can reset them in the menu. I like having high scores higher than I've ever done, gives me something to work towards.

Got my R&M used and it still has the GC by someone I barely know. So far I've gotten to within 5mil points of beating it.

These could be magnets, and it looks cool.

Finally got to play some after the update. The improvements are awesome. But, my action button, topper, and speakers aren't lighting anymore. I tried the "turn on all LEDs" option but they didn't respond. Also tried the button inside the backbox.

Totally plays fine so not overly concerned, but any ideas are appreciated

Just did, didn't help. Maybe I pressed it twice. I'll press it once before dinner and turning it off. Maybe that will help.

Do I need to hold that little button down for a specific amount of time or just press it?

Well, you are AWESOME! Turns out my game (224) also had this exact same problem. Wires were labeled and plugged in "right" but were reversed. Swapped them and got right into SSMB.

Holding the specified button while booting did turn on other lights (topper etc.). They are now blue.

They did stay blue, and only blue, upon the last boot. It's off ATM but I'll try pressing that button again next time I turn it on.

Question: after I get these working right I shouldn't need to do this every time? I sure hope not.

That really sucks If there's no loose connections, which it sounds like there aren't, maybe try in the menu. There's a section in there called "LEDs" and in there an option to "Turn on All LEDs", does that help?

I've been pleased with this game so far. Played a ton yesterday and today and haven't had to remove the glass or reset it once.

I did get a surprise multiball on ONE game. I was in the space kook mode got a ball through the spinner into MM and it both kicked a ball from the MM and the regular launch. It didn't say anything about MB but it did NOT end my ball when one of them drained so im not sure what happened.

After you get your fourth Scooby Snack someone (I believe Fred) will pop up and say something like "You've qualified the apron lock, get a ball into the apron lock". AFTER you've seen that clip or heard that callout the lights beside the apron locks will turn green (indicated they are active) at which point getting a ball either into that VUK behind the drops or into the middle entrance on the upper PF will feed the ball to one of the locks. After one is locked you have to get some number MORE scooby snacks to qualify the other one.

If yours is just kicking the ball from either lock then maybe you aren't on the latest code? The issue I and some others had was with the RIGHT wing only and swapping the Opto plugs fixed that issue for me. Or maybe there is an issue with your optos. But, did you ever get that callout/video telling you to lock in the apron?

Mine did that too, then I realized I'd left the USB drive in there. Turned it off, took out the USB drive and it booted right up.

We play in a dark room too and the PF is plenty well lit. The only thing I'd change is the back right corner. I bought the "Rock trail" from Backalley and while they looks AWESOME you basically can't see them when the game is on or off, they are tucked under the back box.

Unlike Rick and Morty, there aren't any modes that cause ALL the lights to turn off leaving you blind and the spotlights are on basically all the time.

I'm thinking about moving or adding a post too.

Agreed, I popped up the PF over the weekend to move those posts and saw those middle outlane posts are long and act as standoffs for the PCBs.

So, I'm thinking I'll take two more identical posts and put them in the empty hole. That way I can avoid messing with the PCBs and I can just use t'nuts (or whatever the flat nuts usually used on these posts are called). I'll report how it works out.

Lol, I am constantly reaching for that mag save button. But, Scooby-Doo seems to have a lot less right-side drains.

I didn't notice this till you posted, so thanks! I did install the update on my game and it went even more smoothly than the previous update. I plugged in the USB with just the new update on it, powered up the game and was easily able to start the update in the menu. This time when it finished I got a message on the screen "Update Finished, Remove USB and Restart the Game". Last time, I don't remember that "remove the USB" part, and forgot to do that, so it didn't boot right the first boot after the last update. I also had issues with my topper, etc. lights that did NOT happen with this update.

On the outlane posts - I'm planning to add two identical posts in the empty holes - what are the rubber washers? I have to hit the HW store for the right size tee nuts anyway.
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I also got the replacement "hand" plastic from Spooky the other day. Does anyone have a good method of bending this properly? Maybe a heat gun and the rounded edge of something .
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This exact same thing happened to me about an hour ago. Got the Drops Sklill shot and it bounced between them and the right sling and suddenly I got a 3 ball mutiball. Maybe super skill shot multi ball

Nice! I was going to heat and bend my black hand replacement this weekend, but now I want those. If you need someone to test them, I'm in . Otherwise, I think I'll just wait for a set if these to fix the broken hand.

I bought a piece of pipe insulation - like a foam tube - and cut it to slightly smaller that the top lip of the backbox. I just keep that foam with my blade protectors and pop the foam onto the back and then there's a cushion for the hands to rest on.

I finally took the time to move the posts to the "easy" position. It wasn't as difficult as it looked since both PCBs that are in the way only have a few standoff type screws. Beyond that moving them was simple. Finally I can not worry about the ball getting tangled up in the drops and draining out the left.

I also installed the 3d sign and gate mods as well as the new "hand" I got from Spooky. The mods were super simple, just a handful of screws. The hand required a heat gun to bend into position, but it too was easier than anticipated.

I found a different padding to use on the top of the backbox to protect the hands. Before I had a big piece of foam like a pool noodle. But, I had to take it on and off so I found this.

uxcell Foam Tubing for Handle Grip Support, Pipe Insulation, 10mm(3/8") ID 20mm OD 1m Length Black https://a.co/d/j9DbExO

As you can see in the pictures, the new foam is small and less obtrusive.

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Fortunately (knock on wood) I haven't had to take my upper off. But, if it's like the uppers in UM and some other games the slack to pull it up is tied up underneath the PF. I bet there's a bundle with 8 inches or a foot of cable that's cable tied into other wires. Take some pictures and snip the ties to get room to work. Good luck

I moved my posts to the "easy" position and still drain the outlanes - but probably less than the default position.

My fiance claims the launch has not worked for her a few times recently. She said it was a ball save and it took a few tries to get out of the launch.

Maybe after some games the forks spread out or something. I'll report if I see the problem myself or it happens to her again.

You and I must have similar play styles because you always say what I'm thinking in here. I do not think the upper is "easy" and I also DON'T think Cuttler MB is too easy to start - I've only started it a few times, but have had MM and SS all the time.

This is a known problem that has a simple fix. Next time you boot up the game open the backbox and hold the little button on the board next to the computer - only board in the backbox. Once the game boots let go of the button, close the backbox and it should work for good from here (just a one time fix).

I was SHOCKED how quickly mine went from pickup to delivery. It was picked up on a Friday and I had it Tuesday (and that was only because I could not take delivery on the Monday). R&L seems to have gotten better (knock on wood).

I got the alert that my new 3D hands from NinjaCamp arrived today! I'll share pics once I grab the mail and install them tomorrow morning.

Got a couple of fun things in the mail today. I'll take some glass-off pics of all the mods after I install these tomorrow.

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Took some time to install the new NinjaCamp 3D hand mods, as well as some silhouette stickers on the lockdown bar. Also took a couple glass-off pics of the gate mod and sign mods I installed a couple weeks ago.

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That's a good question and maybe I should have thought to ask before I hurried to download and install the new code. I only played one quick game and I had to get back to work, but I don't have the new board and everything seems fine.

This was the only problem with 224 as well. The Orange wireform just screws onto that standoff on top of the sling plastic. It does look like the screw is missing but it is just a simple machine screw. If you don't have any spare screws take off that standoff and take it with you to a hardware store and for $0.03 you can get your game up and running.

Note: When you do reattach the orange wireform check that a ball can easily pass through it. I had to bend one of the tines toward the apron so the ball would flow smoothly after I reattached it.

I just had the best game I've ever had on Scooby-Doo. Played as Daphne, completed 6 modes (with unmask) and 35 snacks. On top of that I had two MMMB and a SSMB. Overall amazing game and I can't wait for the next set of modes.

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Pretty sure it's set up to allow this. I have the last three updates on my thumb drive (at least till the next UM update) and whenever I add a new one it lists all on the drive as choices.

Still absolutely loving our SD, it's getting played several times a day and if I didn't gave to work it would be a lot more.

I have, however, noted that our game is in need of some switch adjustments. Part of this is obvious and with the leaf tool I have fixing the slings - making them more sensitive - will be straightforward.

Where I'm unsure is what to fix to get rid of excessive, "I'm not impressed" call outs. I'm sure there is a sticky switch or opto but im just not sure what triggers that to start my inspection. Anyone have any idea what I need to adjust?

If not I'll report back what I find so we have that documented.

I took the glass off and tested for the "sad scooby/not impressed" switch issue. I can make it trigger only by hitting the left flipper. No points are added, but I get constant disappointment from Scooby and Daphne cause that switch constantly triggers.

I checked - glass off - and cannot get any of the switches on the upper PF to make these sounds. I thought it was the upper exit gate, but it doesn't trigger those call outs. I took a little video if that helps, but cant add it to a post. But if anyone knows the specific switch that triggers this maybe there's a crossed wire or something.

Another instance where a simple operation manual would be amazing.

You're absolutely right, that's something too simple to change in code to include in schematics. I'll reach out to spooky and just continue enjoying the hell out of this game.

I pulled the PF up on my SD over the weekend and tweaked all the sling leaf switches to be more sensitive and the difference in gameplay is literally night and day. Previously the switches on all four slings (including the passive sling on the upper) only reacted if the ball hit them pretty hard and there was easily 2 or 3mm between tines. Using my switch adjustment tool from Pinball life I was able to move all these to within half a mm and the slings are SO much better now. Overall the game is much more "exciting" and the active slings helped me spawn a LOT more Scooby Snacks leading to my best game so far with 81 Scooby Snacks, 3 MMMB, 2 SSMB, at least played every mode with a few unmaskings, to get 9.8million for a new GC.

So, I highly recommend checking your leaf switches on the slings since 20 minutes adjusting these can make this an even better game.

Below is a link to the tool, it is a super simple bar with some slits cut into it. But, they have thought it out well and the angles are perfect to get into those hard-to-reach spaces under a Pinball PF.

https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html

Yes, what he said! Unplug the game, adjust the switches, and then to be sure none are CLOSED or too close, test it with the glass off. So, after you are done adjusting and put the PF back into playing position you can power it up without the glass and make sure the switches are good to go.

In general I would not recommend doing anything (unless absolutely necessary) under the PF with the game on, if you do you are gonna have a bad time and a sad day when a short bricks your 10k game.

Heads up, there is new Scooby Code (6/2) on the Spooky support page now.

LoL, today it was just luck and boredom. I saw earlier DJs post telling someone with a new SD to NOT get used to this version of the code. I figured that meant it would show up any minute so I have been checking the support page every so often all day and BOOM there is was.

You guys are AWESOME! New light boards, new code, this game just keeps getting better!

I just got my light board this week and I'm 224. So, I'd guess you'll get it soon. I didn't get any tracking or anything, it just showed up in the mail.

Anyone else notice that now during attract mode when it has the lightning, now the topper is timed with the flash and the apron lock "wings" flap too. Super cool little touch. Can't wait to see what else Spooky has in store.

This was a big concern for me too, I was given a "note" from my doctor to not lift anything over FIVE pounds, so there was literally no way I could get this beast into the house. So, I made arrangements with some friends for the confirmed delivery date, of course the shipping company had other ideas and delayed by a day screwing up everything. But, I - at the last minute - called a local moving company and for $100 bucks they sent two very strong guys who carefully took my game inside (a half dozen outside steps) and set it on my trusty HF Table Lift. Hiring pros had the additional advantage of letting me NOT feel guilty when they were carrying and I was "supervising".

I am surprised it's more than $100 of all they are moving is ONE game. I paid for the full hour, but from them pulling up to the game on my lift table was MAYBE 20 minutes and they took off. If they are charging more than maybe $120/hr you might want to call around, especially if you only need them to take if from the curb to the house. Of course, if your game room is in the attic or a narrow basement it will take longer and the price might be justified.

In the last couple of days I have started to have this exact problem. I don't have a ton of play in my mech and the forks look centered, but like yours, our launch is inconsistent lately. What's frustrating is that about half the time (lately) the launches are perfect, and there doesn't seem to be any pattern to the weak plunges.

I've seen mention of a potential to add some washers to the launcher and some have said the problem resolved itself. If it is still acting up tonight I will reach out to Spooky tomorrow.

Yes, did not have this shooter lane issue till the most recent update. It works 100% of the time in switch test and intermittent issues during gameplay.

I am having the exact same issue, never had an issues with the launch until the update and it still works 100% of the time in switch test. I still need to check that it's perfectly centered and someone else suggested that possibly the switch inside the lane might be causing the hangup, just haven't had time but will check tonight and hopefully I can play this amazing game again.

Finally got a little time to try the suggested fixes for the launch issues I've been having since the most recent update. First I reset all coils to default but that made no difference. Launch still worked in test and not during gameplay.

Next I tried just upping the launch coil power (this was after I triple checked the issue couldn't possibly be mechanical) and that finally seems to be working. In the end I upped the coil to 90% and its gotten all launches on a handful of games since then. Hopefully it was just an odd SW thing and this fixes it.

Yep, I thought I was good upping power to 90 but after a handful of games this evening the launch got weaker until I had to turn off the game.

My fiance (who loves pinball) complained relentlessly about shakers in games and even refused to let me add one to our Rick and Morty that we bought second hand. Finally, when Ultraman came in (with a shaker installed) I was able to prove to her that the shaker is amazing and that the only reason she had a bias against them (like many of you seem to) is because she had NEVER played a game with a properly adjusted shaker.

The KEY is to open up the shaker motor (remove the plastic cover with the game unplugged) and change the orientation of the weights on the axle. Just loosen the locking screw (small Allen Key) and set the weights so they are opposite each other. This will change the shake from an INTENSE machine-breaking shake to just a nice rumble closer to the feel of your phone vibrating. So, before you decide you hate shakers or need them disabled, maybe take 5 minutes to adjust the weights to make that part of the game work. It's like turning down the bass on a stereo so you can hear the other frequencies.

I can't believe they would WANT to be responsible for a $10k box if they can just give it to you. I know R&L is always really anxious to get it out of their hands ASAP. The longer they have it the more likely they will be on the hook for damages.

I had launcher issues recently, after the previous update, but they seem to have been resolved by simply upping the power to the launcher. I still get maybe 1 out of 10 that don't clear the launch, but at least most do. Spooky told me the best way to diagnose and fix the issues (if they persist with me) is to use the SLOW MOTION feature of your phone (or a better camera if you have one) to record the launch at as many FPS as you can. Then play it back super slow and you should see what is causing the wonk.

As for the switch that is acting up: I had an issue with the upper PF drain switch, it was ALWAYS on. I turned on "stuck switch test" and then bent the leaf on the switch until it only activated when a ball goes through.

For that inside door switch, I would turn the game on in Switch test and bang on the PF and the sides and see if you can make that trigger. If so, the switch may be bad, or more likely needs adjusted.

Good luck, after I fixed the launch hand upper drain my game is 100% more amazing!

This is what GoldenEye does, when you start a game you chose "beginner" or "normal" game.

Have you adjusted the weights in your shaker? It take five minutes and it's a night and day difference.

With the game off, lift the PF and remove the plastic cover on the shaker. Then balance the weights by loosening the retention screw one one of the weights till you can rotate it 180 degrees. Make sure you secure the retention screw tight and replace the cover and you'll like the shaker a lot more.

Yes, and if you don't want your machine shaking out the screws I would balance them. I have all my games balanced and the shakers are more of a vibration (like a phone) than a SHAKE. Obviously this is preference, but before I balanced the weights in my Ultraman I was having connectors come loose and my neighbors would complain (I'm in a condo) about the shaking - oddly they never say anything about the other noises. Side note: My fiance was vehemently against shakers when we met, after showing her the power of a well-balanced shaker she's a fan now. IMHO, I prefer a balanced shaker than NO shaker.

If the backbox is folded down then the topper shouldn't be at risk. I had movers bring mine up the stairs into my place using a furniture dolly and they didn't have any problems.

But, I did look and there's only a few screws so it looks pretty simple to remove.

I moved my posts up a few weeks back and had similar issues. I just checked to make sure the post bolt wasn't pressing against any traces and screwed in as many board mounts as I could.

I thought the solution would be to just change the post to the shorter ones that use a tee nut. But, once I got everything off the teenut I had to fit the posts was way to large to fit. I still think this is the best answer, but I think I'd need to widen the hole under the PF or find smaller post/nut combo. Maybe we just need to cut off the excess on the bolt.

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All three if my Spooky games have a smaller "breakout" PS with 12v terminals avaliable. It's mounted in the back left bottom of the game and uses screw terminals. Next time I lift the glass on one I'll get a better picture, but it's the same layout as Ultraman and Rick and Morty.

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I don't see this issue at all with Fred's mode. In fact, I find that is most adaptable mode in the game. You can just do 3 super easy shots and hit the action button to go to step two. As mentioned above, if you play as Fred you get a free shot-spot if your timer is getting low on part 2 hitting the action button moves to the next shot and resets the timer.

I'd recommend practicing EASY traps to finish the mode and build from there.

That does look really good, is there enough in that package to do 3 games? I think this might look good on UM and R&M too. I assume the canvas is porous enough that it doesn't affect the sound.

My game recently developed some launch issues recently too. After taking some slow-motion video of the launch in action it was obvious it was hitting the wall and rattling on unsuccessful launches.

Now whenever the launch gets weak I spread the tines on the launch fork a little bit (like a mm) and it works again for a few weeks. Next time I need to adjust this I am going to try using some reverse plyers to spread them a little more evenly. But, you can spread the tines with your hands to get up and running for now.

I experienced the exact same issue, got our game with beta code and everything was perfect until the Velma update came out. I did the same thing, increased the power to the launch and it worked for a few days (we only play a few game a day). But, as happened with you, we were thwarted as time passed and the launches got weaker and weaker.

Last week I got annoyed enough to reach out to Spooky and after exchanging a handful of emails and a few slow-motion videos of the launch we figured out the problem. I think it is a matter of time till everyone faces these issues because the hardware for the launcher (the fork in particular) isn't nearly as rigid as it needs to be to hold up to repeated launches over months let alone years.

Anyway, I digress, the video you show looks EXACTLY like mine did, the launcher is kicking the ball a LITTLE to the left upon launch and that is killing the momentum because it hits the ejection mech or the end of the left rail. What has worked for me is to bend the tines of the fork out a LITTLE (like a mm or less) and try again. The first time I did this I used my fingers (pulled the PF up to the rails for access) and just pulled them apart a little. This worked for about a week, but my manual adjustment wasn't very accurate or permanent. So, I ordered a set of "reverse plyers" from Amazon (they are often called ring pullers or seal plyers) and with one of them I was able to more evenly bend the forks out and I have had NO issues in the last week.

Unfortunately I think this is a problem with the launch mech and the power it needs to get into the habitrail and that all of us owners will need to adjust the tines every so often. At least until some motivated person on here makes a new stronger and better mech.

Wow, I sure hope I don't need to do that. I don't have a belt sander and don't relish pulling the wood rails on such a new game (I've replaced these on old beat up pins). Are they just wood screwed in? I guess I'll need to test this on my game with calipers over the weekend.

That is what I thought when I moved my outlane posts too, but I was wrong. I still get plenty of outlane drains and even get the Ruh-Roh ball save pretty regularly. Granted, before I moved the posts that left outlane was HUNGRY, especially if I went for the drops. The post move did lessen the number of cheap drains I get, I still absolutely get outlane drains - especially after a few games and the rubbers aren't so sticky.