I've received confirmation that this is open to US and Canada.

"Hi Darrell,

Yes, starting tomorrow at 10 AM EST anyone from the U.S or Canada are eligible to win the Scooby Doo Collectors Edition!

Best of luck and thank you so much for supporting our charity!

Best wishes,

Sierra &
The Project Pinball Team "

I'm a trap player and both my Alice and Halloween have fade issues, I have been playing HW and it is very noticeable. My GB (Spike1) has serious fade. Makes the game unplayable after a while IMO.

Or possibly add a tapered top ^ to the drop target. Lower the target to accommodate and the taper could redirect the ball instead of throwing it up to the glass. That would have to be tested to see if it would still do something similar of course but might help.

SDCE [no butter] #145, final invoice sent this past Saturday (Nitro)

I hear you, I need to make room as well. This is the first time that I might have to fold a game up. Time to let one go maybe?

Thank you for sharing and continuing to respond, and participate in the club thread. This overview was very helpful and your input and feedback is appreciated. It's relatively recent that the public has had such open access to communicating with a products development team. This is not lost on me but I think that many take it for granted.

And for some of the others yes we get it, "I've wanted to love the game but absolutely hate it. It's dog shit, no it's worse than dogshit!". It worked, some have decided to bail, good for you. Not sure what you are sticking around for unless it is to try to win/flip over more people but can you exit stage left and let everyone else look forward to their game and being part of the evolution of it? This is a great time for pinball, go find something to enjoy.

Who is your distributor?

Ah Okay. I'm Nitro. I'm struggling to find space. May need to fold up my first game if SD is ready to ship too soon.

Good to see that you've found the root cause. Of course you have a lot going on right now so the timing and frustration is completely understandable.
When I have pin issues, I delve in to try to understand root cause, is it mechanical, electrical etc. I'm just a home hobbyist but currently have 25 pins. In this case I would have tried to remove the habitrail to inspect it, and as you've discovered, the ball would have released once you removed the bottom lock nut. We can certainly agree that there is no way that play tested accurately in final testing.

When I got my ACNC NIB in, that too was an early build, #48 (maybe) and the autolaunch was a mess, never shooting the ball out and around the orbit smoothly, it woudl just rattle up the shooter lane and drop into the orbit. This is a key part of the game. I removed the apron and noticed right away that the autofire coil bracket wasn't mounted flat to the playfield. There was a t-nut in the playfield, below the coil bracket that wasn't flush with the playfield, so the autolaunch bracket was noticeably crooked. It took me some time but I removed the coil and bracket and trimmed out the PF for the t-nut, reassembled and adjusted, better but still with issues. The ball was hitting the overhead shooterlane tunnel sculpt. I had to dremel back the inside of the sculpt to dial it in. Smooth autolaunch ever since. I shared this in the club thread as well, not with malicious intent but to just have others aware. That's a catch 22 I suppose as it can be seen both ways but whatever. I don't know who would have done all that VS maybe ending up with a PF swap as that might not have been figured out over the phone with tech support. I would not have been able to do this if I was going through what you are currently going through with your daughter. Would a later build# not have some of these issues, not likely but here we are. Hopefully you can get that new habitrail in without a lot of grief and get to playing.

Okay, so... what is the word on the street, or in home, now about SD? I've missed pages of posts since late in the week.

Not sure if it has been asked but will be have an option to silence the main music/audio loop? It's too short a loop for me and just seems to drone on. I simply can't unhear it when watching a couple of these videos now. I'd love t be able to turn that one track off completely.

Just checking in to see if there is any new, news about gameplay. New pins are landing, any feedback to be shared regarding gameplay?

On Feb 26th I received my 'balance of payment notice' for my SDCE #145 (no butter). It took me just over a week to eTransfer the total in batch limits and was paid in full yesterday so we'll see when I get the tracking number. I am not in any rush however but will post the progress. Great times to be in pinball but certainly would support a drop in pricing. This SDCE will be somewhere just over $16K CDN when all is said and done and that is at $10KUSD. Not too unlike my HWCE. The Godfather pricing blew my mind at $13 & $15K USD, not even worth the conversion and tax calculation... I'm outie on with anything NIB at this point. Anywho... back to all things Scooby.

This non-beveled upper PF edge is concerning to me, for wear and dropping down onto the habitrail. Looks ideal for a 3D printed transition plastic.

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What is the pitch of your game? It is suggested to be at 7 degrees, this might explain the increased power setting for the flippers.

Scoob Snacks

That looks like the rivet itself. Shiny, low profile?

Do you own an ACNC? That has some tight shots. It shipped with slim post rubbers but after the original far right post rubber wore, I replaced the post rubbers with the standard thickness ones, which I had handy. It made it more difficult but I left those on. I will return to slim at some point.

If this is going to be a showpiece pin for you, definitely order with butter. Our ACNC and HWCE are both butter but the increase for me just made it a non-starter. That's now $2K CDN.

A two player game, with multiball.

No ETA on build completion or on delivery for my SDCE #145 (sans beurre). I assume that we are close.

Just an FYI for those curious on timing; Feb 26, payment request as 'pin is online'. Paid in full by the next week.

Yeah, it's coming and not even in a rush. I have to fold up my Virtual Pin to make room

Yes, mine and a friend's is through Nitro. I will check. Thank you!

SDCE is a gorgeous pin and will be a great/timeless title for many. I don't pay much attention to the haters.

It could be either, as you or the others say but it likely isn't coincidental that BAC had a 'mod' of this significance in the works. That said it looks great and to be honest, with all of the creative tools at our disposal, I see it as as an opportunity for me or others to do something on our own. Some people are always looking for extra space under the glass to add something.

If this is really a requirement for the pin, such that they will be including them in current production runs then I would expect the answer to be yes. They sent out new rails and lockdown bars for HWCE due to the wearing of the powder coat. That wsa a very unfortunate and costly issue, that they addressed head on.

#145 (through Nitro - no butter) has landed! The production date shows 03/22/2023 - brand spankin'

There is some minor damage to the box due to what looks like a strap to secure it at some point and the skirt is bent out on the bottom box but nothing appeared to be concerning. The delivery fellow said that he placed it onto a larger pallet to allow for his dolly/truck to curb side it. The two TIP N TELL shows that it remained upright all the way here.

Unfortunately I didn't get a heads up on the delivery so I was fortunate to have checked the tracking# this moring. I won't have time to get in in and setup for awhile yet but the gang is home at last.
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Still not setup but a small sneak peek and it's gorgeous! The metallic green is better than expected and hard to describe. First Spooky pin without butter and it looks great. Perfect seams on those decals. Amazing work Team Spooky!

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Welcome to the club! Please to hear that you took the plunge.

I have been a day 1 order with a low s/n, through Nitro. I have been here reading the good and the bad, it is interesting just how polarized people are. This will never change and I accept that. I already own Alice and Halloween (both in gorgeous butter cabs) and love them and how unique they are. If I listened to a quarter of the negative press out here, I would never have bought. I'm glad that I have a mind of my own.

Spooky continues to shine and have taken care of me along the way with any issues.

So true. SPOOKY could easily cut back on the decals, pun intended, but they don't and it looks so much nicer.

Finally got Scooby setup tonight and had a chance to get a handful of games in!

My topper, speaker lights, flipper button lights were out and pressing the button didn’t fix it. I just unplugged the black usb cable from the mini PC and plugged it back-lit and everything lit up. This was helpful though because it is this board that I went straight to, having read this post. Surprisingly these tips are not in a key post. I did see some for topper height.
Thanks.

Odd question but does it make a rattle sound? I have to look at mine tonight as I'm not sure if the 'sound' when the shaker is on is expected.

My only immediate gripe is the short repetitive music each time you start a ball. For the love of all things HOLY, please have an option to turn that one music sample off in the menu. It is also the same piece that is played during the faster paced Space Kook mode. I can work with the mode one but I would rather just hear the sound effects for the main part of the game, when starting off. Not even asking to change the music, just an option to turn it off.

After getting it setup on Thursday night, I experienced a ball trap in the first game. I literally just left the ball in there and added another to the game. This has worked and I will wait until Spooky has their other plastics available to remedy these. Just an FYI in case others experience it and wonder how to prevent it for now.

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EDIT: this was due to the ball coming down the upper habitrail and popped out, onto the plastic there.

Yes, I believe that it was said after the Texas show.

Both of these answers are already in here, mentioned numerous times and possibly on the Spooky FB fan group.

1. New code was said to be available as early as this week. What was the timeline that you were expecting?
2. Yes, it should be as it has been mentioned a few times along with other actual issues; e.g., high pitch flipper sound

Who knows what the screen resolution is on the display?

Update for those interested; 1366x768 60Hz

Can you share pics of where the trap areas are and what they look like installed please?
I likey have the purple miner habitrail fixed by moving the rail over to the left as suggested in the thread but every ball drop from the left orange scooby habitrail, into the apron lock just bounces over the lock area and into the drain.

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Thank you, I had no idea that there were so many potential trap spots! How many are these caused by fly balls?

I had seen the scooby barrel one right away myself along with the one that I shared a pic of, the ball jumping out of the right apron ball lock after coming down the orange habitrail.

No. Excitedly awaiting for the post though...

Not sure if my idea will come to fruition, but if it does I would need to have the depth and space available on the existing apron. It would not be compatible with BAC's stone apron cover. I have only made one mod which I sold in the past anyway so I don't really have to worry about potential sales opportunities.

Just emailed DJ.

Nothing game impacting but I have noticed twice that when playing Shaggy and, in the Space Kook mode, one of the "shoot the lock" type call outs has Shaggy's voice but Fred's video of him saying it.

I have to admit, when I tried to move Scooby and the Miner down the habitrail, I did the same thing. They were both on the inside 'pressing outward' so in popping them out and relocating them further down, on the inside, it caused a ball trap. I will try to place the on the outside of the rails. Hopefully that is as simple as it is. Thanks for sharing.

I wanted to provide an update on my issue with the right side apron lock area. The small stainless steel arm was angled downward so the ball coming down through the habitrail would jump over it instead of hitting this and sitting in the trough. I carefully bent that back up to the middle, to match the one on the left as seen in my last pic. Problem solved.

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You are going to see the 'problem/issues' posted for some time, just part of the deal and they are going to outnumber the 'this is a fun and fantastic pin'.
I am not a great player and I don't play everyday so I won't be posting a lot about gameplay achievements, or sharing alot about cool gameplay enhancement ideas. I have posted a few of my issues and try to update with my fixes but I am always reading to see what others are experiencing to be more aware of the fixes or adjustments to resolve, in case I experience something similar.

I have Alice Cooper and Halloween and I have had some things that needed attention or tweaking. I still have those because I enjoy them and purchased Scooby. Only you can decide if you want to stay in and become an owner. Good luck in your decision making process.

Our EHOH is from 2019 and I have never been able to resolve the sweking of the 4 gargoyle targets. I've tried to screw them down as tight as possible yet after a few ball hits, they will twist to the left or right and then switch hits lessen. Oddly, I have only ever see a couple of complaints about this, it is like the issue simply doesn't exist for anyone else.

I will try that this weekend. I seem to recall the the screw on top, stays tight but the stainless bracket still skews. I will check though, thanks

Looks like that could help!

I've added two larger rubbers below and even this is better than not having it but you look to have a solution.

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Another suggestion is to pause the timers when the ball is trapped inside the Mystery Machine, waiting to kick it out. Unless that is the point and the player is expected to avoid shooting the MM.

Sega Batman Forever uses the launch button (gun trigger) to lock the modes as well. Let's keep the 'standard'

Yes, there are way too many 'shoot the mystery machine' call outs which are just back to back and the switch/opto timing of sensing the ball in the MM doesn't seem to help. There is often the same call out just after you land a ball in the MM.

I discovered this a while back (March 31 it seems) but might not have shared it. I wasn't having any issues here but I immediately noticed the pinched wires due to site service button bracket being secured over the wires. I removed the bracket and moved the wires to the right, out of the way. For the few minutes that it takes, I'd advise to do the same, if you have the same as I did.

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I am not a fan of this approach. This is likely to ensure a connection and I do get that spade connectors might have unseen crimp issues but these parts can also only take so much heat. This also makes it difficult and more work to replace a part, in this case a simple cherry switch.

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Yes, while technically a wide body, the main playfield is more of a standard width of actual play area. The far right is where the bravery meter is etc. There is some past discussion about this in the group but also from Spooky themselves in a video or two.

I would love it if I could select my HS initials in a single shot. This might be more of a home collection thing but maybe have the action button cycle through the names in the HS list and then START to select/enter it.

I'm not sure what is inside the mystery machine ball capture area but if it is a fine metal dust then it sounds like something is wearing. There are also horizontal metal ball guides used in the pin that have sharp edges so I think that is going to have some chipping on the balls or on these guides.

My buddy and I have 140's and no new light board yet. Wonder if it ships to Nitro first. I will have to ask.

Maybe an additional option for the Cutler MB music is 'random'.

Not new for me but the left flipper shots into the mystery van almost always reject (never hit the hole). The hole is more to the left side of the MM lane though, with more playfield space to the right of the hole, so maybe that is why.

Me too. My pin is in the 140's (serial#) and just getting the new LED board shipping notice as they are shipping through the distribution channel. At least in this case, I can't speak for all. It will arrive and be glorious.

Were others having issues with the VUK coil strength following the last update? I've tried to look back in the thread and in the key posts but don't find anything. My left VUK is already set at 100% yet the first time I went into the scoop, it took about 5 tries to kick it out. I do see a few soft launch attempts with the ball launch as well. Just curious on this. Thanks.

yes, PITA.

I think that I've shared a picture of two on this. Look at the stainless steel arm on the opposite side of the scultped wing and it might need to be bent upwards. it will prevent the ball from bouncing out of the apron lock area when coming down the habitrail fast.

I recall seeing co-op in the software somewhere, possibly in the audits. I assume that it's coming.

Just to add to this; with the locknut you don't need the washer. Maybe unless the post sits lossely in the playfield hole(?). That will give you that little bit extra to lower the nut to the playfield, likely removing the need for the sticky dots, but that is a great idea anyway, just in case.

My suggestion for 'cutting' the post bolt on the thread requires a grinder (even a dremel with a grinding disc) or standing grinder wheel.
- Remove the light board and put the post in the upper position, thread the lock nut on, without the washer and then mark the thread at the topside of the nut. Remove the nut and post, then place the locknut back on the loose post (in hand) and then cut/grind the rest of the post thread off to make it flush with the top of the lock nut. If you have touched the top of the nut, file it down to enaure that there are no sharp edges. Just in case you have some post/thread above the nut, loosen/tighten the nut up/down a few times before removing the locknut, this will rethread the post threads at the cut and ensure that you can get the nut back on after removing it. If this process has affected the small plastic lock washer, use some blue loctite when putting the nut back on. It sounds like more work than it really is but this works every time for me.

I will take some pictures when I do mine.

UPDATE: my SDCE is # 145 and I didn't have a washer on the underside of the playfield. I decide to go give this all a try after breakfast and did exactly what I described above. Even with the washer missing AND grinding down the post bolt thread flush with the supplied lock nut, it really is still is too high for the lightboard IMO. The thickness of the nut is too much. If i keep it this way, i should use longer wood screws for the lightboard (being mindful of the playfield thickness and not poking through the topside). I put electrical tape to cover the nut but, I think that the better approach would be using a t-nut for the post and then grinding down as i have described (use the nut the grind down the post as the nut won't spin on the post but the t-nut will. The t-nut approach will keep the lightboard closer to the playfield.

Here are some pics, hope that they help in some way.
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I picked it up from an older tradesman. Always helpful!

That said, I have updated my post. I would now use a lower profile nut or go straight to a t-nut, after seeing the tight space here, just like Spooky used on the post to the right of the one that we are all discussing. The grinding above the threaded post would still be helpful for both methods to ensure that the thread is clean.

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On an unrelated note, when you have the playfield up, check the tightness of the wiring. I found a few cables that were far too tight for my liking. Cut some of the zip ties off and let there be slack. Many of these cables are short enough that they won't go anywhere, or if you feel the need tie a loose zip tie to prevent dangling but still allow for slack.

I do love that 'off the shelf' ethernet cabling is heavily used. I can't say that enough!
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Is there a reason why mosfets can't be socketed? That seems that it would be so helpful for many of us.

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Well , that would be the reason way then. Thanks.

Found a neat Shaggy and Scooby figure on the weekend. I pictured something just like this after seeing the legs. That is how they are, I've just tied them to the habitrail at the ring.

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I had no idea but found it online and the other guys are accurate in the cake topper. The bow legged shaggy is rubber but stiff enough. I thought that it was prefect over a habitrail. Good luck in the search, this one was just a single in a pile of figures at a local shop.

https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-bell-ca-revc&ctxs=2&sxsrf=AB5stBhPUcA3wLcgqsK26vclOSkMIHe3zA:1689130057901&q=Scooby+Doo+%26+Shaggy+Rogers+Bakery+Craft+Hanna+Barbera+Figurines+Group&spell=1&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=2ahUKEwih7dHok4iAAxXAhIkEHUH_Dp8QBSgAegQIExAB&biw=360&bih=594&dpr=3

I agree, I always think in terms of what it would cost if it were sold as a 'mod'. I picked up two figures from a vendor at one of the 'antique/collector' places and they were each priced at $7.75. Always odd pricing, on these used items but I figured that they were easily worth it and I knew immediately where this one would go.

There is a lot of talk about reseating cables etc., are you doing this with the pin on? What did Spooky suggest, doing that live or with the pin off. Doing it live could cause many other issues, if the platform/system isn't made to do that. I am only asking the question to clarify it for myself in this case.

Good to hear. It's great advice for the members/owners, thanks.

I have not heard it being played since the upgrade. I don't mind if they add it somewhere but I really dig the new music and the varying style and tempos etc.

I hadn't realized this either and found the same, I would sometimes shoot a character lane on launch and not be awarded the character. I will be aware of this , next time. Thanks!

Yes, a simple t-nut (blind nut as you've said), is the solution here and repurposing one like that is a good idea as it is already available on the playfield. As long as it is the same thread. I have a very similar post describing this as well, with a few pictures but highly recommend using the lock nut to set the length and then grind down the thread so that you can re-thread the post when working the nut back and forth on the way off.

I've just installed the latest update with the Daphne mode.

There seem to be at least two bugs relating to tracking balls. Not sure if it is worth noting that all games are being played as Daphne but the first game was fine, second game a new ball was just kicked into play but when I drained the ball was over and drained the extra ball. UPATE: I now know that the second ball put into play is triggered by hitting one of the SD stand up targets. Kust not sure why/when but it isn't an expectes ball as when one drains the play is over. Oddly, if my remaining ball hits a lnother target before the flippers are tyrned off (end of ball/play), it is treated as a the next ball.

On the third game, the ball went into the mystery machine, as the first into MM and it's as though it didn't register. I tried to wait it out but not even the ball search by it's second search kicked it out. I went into setup and back out and the ball was kicked out. I have never had an issue with the MM to date.

Update:

Still getting many of the random MM ball issues where the ball is not registered (I guess), and the game sits and eventually starts the ball search, not attempting to kick out a ball from MM, until I end the game by going into setup and back out.

Started the Daphne mode and unfortunately landed a ball into the MM during the mode and it just held without kicking the ball out. Ball search took a long time to start but as above, but the top of the MM ball coil must not be in the search as it wouldn't release anything. This time I decided to wait even longer and I would say that maybe after 4 minutes a ball was kicked into play from the trough, by the ball search I suppose. I could then resume Daphne but this is definitely all related to the new update. Hopefully easily patched.

The Daphne mode is fun as well. The code is really evolving, SD is a blast to play.

I find that the two most difficult shots on the main playfield are the two outside mini loop shots (Daphne shot on the left side, and Velma on the roght side). The middle spinner shots and inside loop should be easily backhanded on their respective sides. Try backhanding the MM spinner from the right flipper when holding the ball. I can get that and the shot just to the left of it (Shaggy shot) easily while cradling the ball. The same for the left flipper, to it's spinner/return shot and the shot just right of that (Fred shot).

I can definitely say that moving the left post up to the top has made the game fun again. I still get some left outlane drains but not the cheap ones that would bounce from the bank of drop targets. It would remind me of PLINKO but with 50% or higher chance of a drain. If anyone is experiencing that, most the post up. Too bad that it wasn't easier, but if you are going under the hood to do it, replace the post and install the t-nut as described in the above posts. I went the way uf grinding down the post thread etc., but I might replace that when I can.

I would be interested in trying the 2/3 position for the post. At least one member has come up with a 3dprinted bracket that allows it. Although now that I type this, I think that his option can be installed without moving the left post. So this could be even easier for some.

That's a great image to show this.

After a bunch of games last night, the one remaining shot on each side were achievable from the opposite flipper with a 'tip of flipper' shot. I find that the far left Daphne shot is repeatable but the most difficult, while the far right Velma shot can be achieved even by hitting part of the far right lane and the ball makes it's way up that lane.

So true. Although the question is completely reasonable. The 'stuff I don't need is bang on. Adult toys.

SD ran me around the $16K mark, and I opted out of butter this time. Pricing is about the same for Aussies. UK is even more, from what I have read. Crazy but here we are. Enjoy it while we can.

Suggestion below to check your flipper alignment but yes, from each flipper, with the ball cradled, I can repeatedly hit the middle and inside shot on the respective side, with ease and I am not a great player.

Good to hear this. I have been watching the thread and not seeing anyone else post the same until now. I know that it's code related as mine has been solid since the beginning. As it is really just me playing SD, in recent days, I will leave this code in and see if more mention the issue and hopefully a small update remedies these two issues in short order. The game is otherwise not playable for someone whobis easily frustrated, and definitely not playable in a public facing location.

Patch update is coming

There are more general music tracks that seemingly play randomly. I really like this change, to me it makes a huge difference in overall gameplay as they are quite different and longer in play, before repeating.

You can share a picture but yes come to think of it, the same happened to me out of box but it didn't take much to open it just a bit. Just use a hand towel of something that you can protect the insides of the rail with and then use a pair of pliers or similar to spread them outwards.

And the benefit of being able to lock in the plan with the action button is that when you are ready you can trap/craddle the ball and then hit the action button.
This is, if you don't let the timer run out on building the plan, otherwise it will just start the playback with ball in play.

The major difference here is that Stern is screwing us with a platform(s) that may never be replicated. OG Spike (not Sprike2), for instance. Stern isn't even making some of those boards. Where and how T.F. are we going to find repair and replacements. Shit move by Stern.

TBL is on my wish list but it's easily the most costly of current titles. Does anyone know why the video on TBL appears to have scan lines? THis might have changes but it seems like what I recall from Rob Zombie. Is there a way to change that?

With my Halloween purchase I added butter after the fact and was told that it would take up to another month. I had my first Spooky (ACNC) in butter and decided that it was worth the wait. You might think the same when you get it. I had to pass on the butter with SD due to the increase. I wanted it but too much in CDN $. Like be the same if I get any Spooky pins in the future, sadly.

Honestly, it's nothing too complex, especially if you order in a couple of replacement parts; shorter post and t-nut. I went a different route, modifying what I had but the t-nuts are the way to go. You can put a t-nut in the other positions so that you can then move the post top-side, without lifting the playfield out.

I just removed the existing post and lock nut and chose to grind down the the post/thread down to the lock nut, and took down the nut somewhat with the grinding wheel. Not perfect but allowed for the post move without ordering parts. I will replace this with the t-nut(s) approach. A few of us have shared ideas and pics of what we've done.

In the end, I am pleased with the post in the top position, it was just far too cheap a ball loss with those drop targets on the left side, so close to the LT outlane.

I hate to shit on creativity but this seller needs to tune that printer. Lazy.

I plan to offer something for the pin that I have been working on but I need to dial it in and ensure that it is some what 'turnkey' so that is accessible to all owners. I have finished mine, as that was the original intention but I thought that others might like what I have done. I'm having a bit of a challenge with knowing that there are some differences in fitment, even if slight differences between machines. Unfortunately I am working within a few mm and there is a difference. This one 'mod' is not rocket science type stuff but not everyone wants to create something and would just rather buy outright. We'll see if I can bring this further and make it avilable for sale.

Back to the key tag. As a reference to what I consider 'quality', that I would attach my name to, here is something that I made for ACNC 4 years ago now.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/acnc-tower-of-torture

Original hand sculpt, then reverse mould(mold), then made resin casts and hand painted them. Made about 15 in total, over time. Gave one to 'Spooky' and discounted one for a podcaster. Some ANCN owners liked them and bought and some bitched that I was asking too much or that it didn't do anything like light up. I'm in Canada and I sold them for $120USD, including shipping to most of the US and some overseas destinations. One of our own members here, offers a painting service on someone else's mod at $75+. That's great that it is a service offered and people willing to pay for the service. I obviously had something that had a small interest group but I did it for myself, to see if I could pull it all off and then decided to offer it up, knowing that I couldn't ask too much but for that effort and price, I just haven't had the drive to go to that extent again.

I still however laugh when I see a simple 3D print that looks like crap and is being offered for sale. The joke is on me though, if people are buying good for the sellers!

Thank you! Hopefully I see this one through.

After posting the link I went back to the thread and see that a couple of people were intetested in one. Honestly, it's a ton of work so I doubt that I am going to go there again. It was a fun accomplishment though!

I was aware of the magnet but seem to recall hearing or reading, at that time, that they hadn't coded it yet though. I do agree that some shots seemingly just dump into the hole and if a magnet was in use, it was take a moment to stop or hold the ball and then release it. Maybe someone from Spooky can chime in to shed some light on the magnet here.

looks like post 7104 is a keyed post but here is the one being referenced:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/scooby-doo-where-are-you-club-scooby-snacks-for-all/page/133#post-7691851

I'm not following, are you hoping to use the post to draw the t-nut into the wood? I wouldn't risk the topside PF to try to do that. It's best to just remove the LED PCB from below and tap the t-nut in. You won't then have to over tighten the post from the topside to secure it. If you have added a second t-nut, you can then unscrew the post, top-side only and relocate to the other hole.

Update: on another read through, if you are just referring the the area being cluttered above, you can try a long socket over the post, or long needle nose pliers and just use a folded shop towel (thicker paper towel), over the base of the post nut as you tighten with the pliers. This should prevent slipping or damage. YOu really don't have to tighten it too much.

Crazy and I love it!

Can you share a picture looking downwards from over one of the flippers? Curious to know what it looks like.

They are aware, it was discussed in the live stream. Next update type thing.