Honest question - I had a long game of SD, started several mysteries, etc., and never once got to the upper playfield. What gets the ball up there? Or could it have been a weak VUK somewhere I couldn't see?
(Topic ID: 331168)
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Quoted from pin-pimp:I don’t really know anything about formatting a stick. It’s the same one I used on Rick and morty so if that’s different format then? I’m trying again now.
FAT32 is what you would typically have used for Rick and Morty as well. In Windows, you can just right click on your USB drive and click Format:
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from m00nmuppet:Honest question - I had a long game of SD, started several mysteries, etc., and never once got to the upper playfield. What gets the ball up there? Or could it have been a weak VUK somewhere I couldn't see?
Center ramp. Hold the left flipper after shooting to divert the ball to upper.
Quoted from m00nmuppet:Honest question - I had a long game of SD, started several mysteries, etc., and never once got to the upper playfield. What gets the ball up there? Or could it have been a weak VUK somewhere I couldn't see?
Center ramp always feeds the upper playfield. My guess is you didn’t hold the left flipper so that the bookcase diverted the ball to the upper playfield stuff.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Center ramp always feeds the upper playfield. My guess is you didn’t hold the left flipper so that the bookcase diverted the ball to the upper playfield stuff.
That's weird - I swear I was doing that every time in anticipation of it showing up at the bookcase flipper. I played the game once before and got to the upper playfield a few times on an average game. It felt like I had a much longer game this time and saw a lot more mystery stuff, but it never went to the bookcase flipper once.
Maybe they can add some options in the code to notice a player hasn't done anything on the upper playfield, and then automatically divert the bookcase on a center ramp shot so they get a chance up there.
A lot of players hardly notice/use upper flippers to begin with, and you need to know to use the bookcase as a diverter. There's not a lot of time to react if you aren't expecting it. (Maybe add some speech callouts too to remind the player?)
Quoted from m00nmuppet:That's weird - I swear I was doing that every time in anticipation of it showing up at the bookcase flipper. I played the game once before and got to the upper playfield a few times on an average game. It felt like I had a much longer game this time and saw a lot more mystery stuff, but it never went to the bookcase flipper once.
Maybe you were getting rejects and didn’t realize it. It’s just a ramp that goes around the back and feeds the bookcase flipper.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Maybe you were getting rejects and didn’t realize it. It’s just a ramp that goes around the back and feeds the bookcase flipper.
Might be best to take the glass off and make sure the ball can get up there manually and isn't being blocked or rejected for some reason like an obstruction
Quoted from GCS2000:Saw this on Scooby FB group just now
"Spooky Doo apron mods in the final steps to shipping out today."
[quoted image]
Which group was that posted in?
Has anyone gotten the email to finish paying for the apron mod yet?
Quoted from Sethman:Which group was that posted in?
Has anyone gotten the email to finish paying for the apron mod yet?
On Back Alley's Facebook Page
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057583414820
Quoted from SpookyBug:Pretty much! Squirrel will start sending out boards to all of the customers in order. Current games on the line will have the board installed as I'm clearing them.
Hey @spookybug! Great meeting you at Pinfest last week. When we talked, I mentioned my #335 was just about to ship. Wondering if I made the cut on the new boards already being installed on the line? Any chance you have the production range of SD's with the new boards v. without?
Looks like my 335 will be delivered Monday! Super excited about my first Spooky pin!
Quoted from Svenop:Might be best to take the glass off and make sure the ball can get up there manually and isn't being blocked or rejected for some reason like an obstruction
Yeah, it was an on-location pin and now I'm certain it must have been an obstruction preventing the ball getting up there, or getting into the VUK properly (or however it gets to the upper).
Quoted from m00nmuppet:Yeah, it was an on-location pin and now I'm certain it must have been an obstruction preventing the ball getting up there, or getting into the VUK properly (or however it gets to the upper).
It’s just a ramp. No VUK. It’s a smooth fast ramp shot to the bookcase flipper.
Quoted from chuckwurt:It’s just a ramp. No VUK. It’s a smooth fast ramp shot to the bookcase flipper.
I think I remember seeing plastics above the ramp maybe those are hanging down enough to stop the ball
Question if this is a ramp in the center leading to upper playfield , how is it I get stuck ball here frequently . Only thing gets ball back is hit tin the flipper's a bunch you can shake it till it tilts, ball stays stuck. Anyone else experience this and if yes how did you correct the issue. Thanks
Quoted from simpswho:Question if this is a ramp in the center leading to upper playfield , how is it I get stuck ball here frequently . Only thing gets ball back is hit tin the flipper's a bunch you can shake it till it tilts, ball stays stuck. Anyone else experience this and if yes how did you correct the issue. Thanks
Look carefully under the upper playfield where that ramp enters.
Several Scooby owners have had an issue with a wire shield falling down into that area and blocking the ball.
If that's the problem, contact Spooky and they should have a fix for you.
RussM
Quoted from simpswho:Question if this is a ramp in the center leading to upper playfield , how is it I get stuck ball here frequently . Only thing gets ball back is hit tin the flipper's a bunch you can shake it till it tilts, ball stays stuck. Anyone else experience this and if yes how did you correct the issue. Thanks
Look back there. You’ll see there is a plastic cover for most of the way. Need to check that and the balls entire path for any hangup spots and clear them.
Okotoks, AB
Quoted from simpswho:Question if this is a ramp in the center leading to upper playfield , how is it I get stuck ball here frequently . Only thing gets ball back is hit tin the flipper's a bunch you can shake it till it tilts, ball stays stuck. Anyone else experience this and if yes how did you correct the issue. Thanks
(pic from other poster) looks like the problematic cover was to the left of the center ramp. i wonder if you have a loose bolt , nut or washer on your center ramp
center ramp (resized).pngQuoted from ddrpriest:I was planning to wait until we had a resolution to post up, but we have had almost the exact same issues as Svenop has had. We should be receiving our second replacement Warden and control boards today. We are hoping this time will be different as our game has sat in the shop over a month now going back and fourth with Spooky. They have kept up communication and is still working with us to resolve the issue, but it is disappointing to have this happen.
Our machine lasted about an hour on the floor before the upper right flipper seized and fried itself. This was also related to the launch button, auto plunger, and the top playfield coils and switches not working. Sadly, as I was initially working on it on the floor before pulling the game, I had a mom and son tell me how excited they were to play it and when it would be working. I hated to tell her that I had no idea and had to pull it to the back.
We've been down with Spooky for a long time now and love supporting them. We hope we can resolve this issue today when I head into the shop to install the new hardware and thank Spooky for working with us. However, we have to express our utter disappointment with what seems to be some minor to major QA/build issues. Boards so close to potential grounding points and at times lackluster soldering really sucks to encounter, especially when said issues are easily avoided with a little more attention to detail. I'd sacrifice some of the bling factor on the top side of the table for more attention being shown to the underside. A beautiful machine means nothing sitting covered up in a shop.
I was able to figure out our problem. Well...it was one of these three things.
First, the bracket for the service buttons was pressing against this wiring. I don't think it was shorting here, but I bent it out of the way to allow the wires room. If you look closely you can see the area that was already starting to wear.
scooby3 (resized).jpg
Second spot was at the hardware for the drop target between the flippers. Solder points were super close to the metal plate. Threw some electrical tape to isolate the metal from it.
scooby5 (resized).jpgscooby6 (resized).jpgscooby2 (resized).jpg
Third spot was the shaker motor board. After reading someone else doing so I re-positioned the board away from the subwoofer and the amp.
scooby1 (resized).jpg
The game now functions properly and is on our floor for our guests to enjoy. When this game works it is a lot of fun and lovely to look at. I hope you all at Spooky know, while we are upset to get a NIB game with issues like this, we hope you understand and take the criticism as constructive and adjust your protocol on the line when these are being built. We want to see Spooky games for years to come, but I can say we won't be looking to buy anything day one until we see better consistency with the build quality overall.
Sydney
Quoted from ddrpriest:I was able to figure out our problem. Well...it was one of these three things.
First, the bracket for the service buttons was pressing against this wiring. I don't think it was shorting here, but I bent it out of the way to allow the wires room. If you look closely you can see the area that was already starting to wear.
[quoted image]
Second spot was at the hardware for the drop target between the flippers. Solder points were super close to the metal plate. Threw some electrical tape to isolate the metal from it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Third spot was the shaker motor board. After reading someone else doing so I re-positioned the board away from the subwoofer and the amp.
[quoted image]
The game now functions properly and is on our floor for our guests to enjoy. When this game works it is a lot of fun and lovely to look at. I hope you all at Spooky know, while we are upset to get a NIB game with issues like this, we hope you understand and take the criticism as constructive and adjust your protocol on the line when these are being built. We want to see Spooky games for years to come, but I can say we won't be looking to buy anything day one until we see better consistency with the build quality overall.
Damn - these are potentially big problems, because you've only found them by investigating in such great detail, and most people wouldn't pick up problems like that. It would also be really hard to pinpoint even with customer support, so I really hope the Spooky guys are taking this on board. We all know NIB pins have issues here and there, but unfortunately, general consensus is rather negative on their manufacturing and build process, and I think a little more care and QC will not only save them a huge amount of work down the road, but also greatly improve the general perception and really move their business forward.
I'm really looking forward to my Scooby, I'm super happy with Halloween (but I am getting eager for the code to be finished), and R&M is one of my all time favourite games - but it pains me when guys come round to play and usually the first comment when I fire up Halloween or R&M is "have you had many problems with these"? Because shortly after a few plays, the comments are usually along the lines of "wow this is actually a really great game"!
Quoted from ddrpriest:I was able to figure out our problem. Well...it was one of these three things.
First, the bracket for the service buttons was pressing against this wiring. I don't think it was shorting here, but I bent it out of the way to allow the wires room. If you look closely you can see the area that was already starting to wear.
[quoted image]
Second spot was at the hardware for the drop target between the flippers. Solder points were super close to the metal plate. Threw some electrical tape to isolate the metal from it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Third spot was the shaker motor board. After reading someone else doing so I re-positioned the board away from the subwoofer and the amp.
[quoted image]
The game now functions properly and is on our floor for our guests to enjoy. When this game works it is a lot of fun and lovely to look at. I hope you all at Spooky know, while we are upset to get a NIB game with issues like this, we hope you understand and take the criticism as constructive and adjust your protocol on the line when these are being built. We want to see Spooky games for years to come, but I can say we won't be looking to buy anything day one until we see better consistency with the build quality overall.
Thank you for sharing!!
Quoted from ddrpriest:I was able to figure out our problem. Well...it was one of these three things.
First, the bracket for the service buttons was pressing against this wiring. I don't think it was shorting here, but I bent it out of the way to allow the wires room. If you look closely you can see the area that was already starting to wear.
[quoted image]
Second spot was at the hardware for the drop target between the flippers. Solder points were super close to the metal plate. Threw some electrical tape to isolate the metal from it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Third spot was the shaker motor board. After reading someone else doing so I re-positioned the board away from the subwoofer and the amp.
[quoted image]
The game now functions properly and is on our floor for our guests to enjoy. When this game works it is a lot of fun and lovely to look at. I hope you all at Spooky know, while we are upset to get a NIB game with issues like this, we hope you understand and take the criticism as constructive and adjust your protocol on the line when these are being built. We want to see Spooky games for years to come, but I can say we won't be looking to buy anything day one until we see better consistency with the build quality overall.
Second spot on mine had some little rubber piece jammed in there all crooked from the factory. I found that when I was digging in mine and thought man that placement was very poorly designed. Yours doesn't seem to have that rubber included or it fell out during shipping...
How would you know its missing. There's absolutely no documentation to reference
I wouldn't be surprised if it results in shorts down the road for games as the rubber wears from vibration or ages and becomes brittle. Curious how the discussion went to decide to jam rubber in there vs go back redesign it
And its these kinds of things that are frustrating. As much as I want our game I would rather them take their time and build the game in a manner that addresses these assembly issues. It is about the details.
I am designing a post extender that may help with the left outlane drain without the need to drill a hole in your playfield.
Pinsider SKORR_Arcades is helping test a very similar post extender on a different game.
649f60630e0fba5933705b3b6e1dc568a6302e9f (resized).jpg6552c93f28286d62f7d15207f015fd2d7701df5f (resized).jpg13a2f5fa61f7ed5ddca71c9e0195c4823050e (resized).jpg
I have 2 different designs in mind for Scooby. They lides over the current bumper post and lock in under and around the top screw of the inlane guide. Both designs are using 7/16 rubber size.
1) Moves the post up between the 2 current settings.
2) Offsets the post up and to the left for those having issues with the ball bounce outs from the drop targets.
I currently do not have access to a Scooby locally. Is there anyone with a Scooby that is willing to help test fit one or both post extenders to provide some measurements and feedback?
PXL_20230511_033435713 (resized).jpg
PXL_20230511_033154828 (resized).jpg
PXL_20230511_033445070 (resized).jpg
Quoted from La4s:I am designing a post extender that may help with the left outlane drain without the need to drill a hole in your playfield.
Pinsider SKORR_Arcades is helping test a very similar post extender on a different game.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]I have 2 different designs in mind for Scooby. They lides over the current bumper post and lock in under and around the top screw of the inlane guide. Both designs are using 7/16 rubber size.
1) Moves the post up between the 2 current settings.
2) Offsets the post up and to the left for those having issues with the ball bounce outs from the drop targets.I currently do not have access to a Scooby locally. Is there anyone with a Scooby that is willing to help test fit one or both post extenders to provide some measurements and feedback?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
This looks great. I'd love a thin matching rubber playfield protector underneath it once it's finalized
Quoted from La4s:I am designing a post extender that may help with the left outlane drain without the need to drill a hole in your playfield.
Pinsider SKORR_Arcades is helping test a very similar post extender on a different game.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]I have 2 different designs in mind for Scooby. They lides over the current bumper post and lock in under and around the top screw of the inlane guide. Both designs are using 7/16 rubber size.
1) Moves the post up between the 2 current settings.
2) Offsets the post up and to the left for those having issues with the ball bounce outs from the drop targets.I currently do not have access to a Scooby locally. Is there anyone with a Scooby that is willing to help test fit one or both post extenders to look provide some measurements and feedback?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Well that’s cool if it works out for you or others, but I’m just not sure I understand the desire. Post all the way up makes the game easy, once you really get the hang of the game then move it down to the next position, I just don’t see a need for an in between option.
Quoted from GCS2000:And its these kinds of things that are frustrating. As much as I want our game I would rather them take their time and build the game in a manner that addresses these assembly issues. It is about the details.
If consumers as a whole stoped kissing ass and demanded higher QC it would make a better product for all.
Quoted from Svenop:This looks great. I'd love a thin matching rubber playfield protector underneath it once it's finalized
What do you mean by a rubber playfield protector?
Quoted from Danzig:Well that’s cool if it works out for you or others, but I’m just not sure I understand the desire. Post all the way up makes the game easy, once you really get the hang of the game then move it down to the next position, I just don’t see a need for an in between option.
It is definitely not for everyone. Some people like a harder playing game but with it draining unfarily.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I'm liking the designs, but how do you tighten the wood screw post into the playfield? Do you spin the whole piece until it's tight?
[quoted image]
You use the existing mini post already attached in the lower position. Remove the rubber off the existing mini post, and loose the top of the inlane plastic. The post extender then slides overtop of the existing post, and then under the inlane plastic guide. Tighten back down the inlane guide, put the mini post rubber back on.
PXL_20230511_115619780 (resized).jpgQuoted from CoolCatPinball:I'm liking the designs, but how do you tighten the wood screw post into the playfield? Do you spin the whole piece until it's tight?
[quoted image]
I've seen that type of post before, pop that ring off and probably the 3D printed bit too and there's a hex base for a driver.
May have to use a long socket, but it's there.
RM
Quoted from La4s:What do you mean by a rubber playfield protector?
It is definitely not for everyone. Some people like a harder playing game but with it draining unfarily.
You use the existing mini post already attached in the lower position. Remove the rubber off the existing mini post, and loose the top of the inlane plastic. The post extender then slides overtop of the existing post, and then under the inlane plastic guide. Tighten back down the inlane guide, put the mini post rubber back on.
[quoted image]
Ahhh, I get it, so the mod just slides down over the existing post. Makes perfect sense now
Quoted from Vecna:If consumers as a whole stoped kissing ass and demanded higher QC it would make a better product for all.
IMG_7786.gifThe QC issues is going to have a lasting impression for sure. Good customer service, replacement parts and long awaited code updates on all machines puts a damper on the perception of the company's reputation.
Quoted from frankmac:The QC issues is going to have a lasting impression for sure. Good customer service, replacement parts and long awaited code updates on all machines puts a damper on the perception of the company's reputation.
Possibly, it just seems that the big boys on the block have more apologists making excuses for their QC issues sweeping them under the rug.
We are loving this pin!
I have #322 received last week.
We’re at 120 games Zero issues.
Not even a ball stuck.
Let’s hope QC is fully under control now!
Quoted from ddrpriest:I was able to figure out our problem. Well...it was one of these three things.
ddrpriest and @svenop, I appreciate all of the work that you both put into chasing down this issue.
While I have not yet received my SD CE, I am curious if mine will arrive with the piece of rubber in place (presumably there to prevent shorts) or if nothing will be there (such as the case for @ddrpriest). If nothing is there, thanks to the two of you, I will know what to do now.
More importantly, it is my hope that the guys from Spooky will see your posts and devise a more permanent and better designed fix.
There are likely unforeseen design issues with all new games, that get discovered at some point (especially when dealing with a 'newer' manufacturer), but what matters is how the manufacturer deals with the problem once it has surfaced and been publicized.
After all of the man hours spent trying to track down the gremlin causing the issue, I can certainly understand @ddrpriest's frustration. Hopefully, Spooky is listening.
CE #220 arrived yesterday - expertly delivered and set up by KingPin Games. I'm VERY happy to report that it's running almost flawlessly after 25-30 games. During the test game the flipper whine was noticeable so I updated to the latest code and it disappeared completely. The only issue has been the auto plunge not making it up about 15% of the time - it falls back to plunger but almost always makes it up on the 2nd try. I'll look into that later.
I'm also VERY happy to report that this game rocks. I took a flyer and ordered it based on the theme and game streams. I did not have a chance to play it in the wild so yesterday was literally my first game(s). I couldn't be happier. My son (young teenager) totally digs it too. This will only get better with code advancements (i.e. character modes).
The game is much more brutal (as others have noted) than anticipated. This is not unexpected as clearly those who live stream are close to infinitely better than me.
Hoping those with issues get them sorted out so you can enjoy the game. I'm sure issues will crop up on mine (like every other pin I have) but knocking on wood it's nothing I can't handle.
What baffles me is how random delivery seems to be on games (not just a a Spooky thing either). Person above just got 220 but I thought games in the 300s had been getting delivered like #341 just a couple posts above was delivered as well. This really doesn't make sense.
Quoted from La4s:What do you mean by a rubber playfield protector?
It is definitely not for everyone. Some people like a harder playing game but with it draining unfarily.
You use the existing mini post already attached in the lower position. Remove the rubber off the existing mini post, and loose the top of the inlane plastic. The post extender then slides overtop of the existing post, and then under the inlane plastic guide. Tighten back down the inlane guide, put the mini post rubber back on.
[quoted image]
Pretty sure we would be interested as we are not great players. Design looks nice but would need to see it on a game of course. We are #517 and probably won't have our game until sometime in June so doubt we could be of any help. Will be curious to see how this pans out though.
Quoted from GCS2000:What baffles me is how random delivery seems to be on games (not just a a Spooky thing either). Person above just got 220 but I thought games in the 300s had been getting delivered like #341 just a couple posts above was delivered as well. This really doesn't make sense.
Not really random. If you look, both of those games came from different distributors, not direct from Spooky.
Quoted from GCS2000:What baffles me is how random delivery seems to be on games (not just a a Spooky thing either). Person above just got 220 but I thought games in the 300s had been getting delivered like #341 just a couple posts above was delivered as well. This really doesn't make sense.
Pretty sure we would be interested as we are not great players. Design looks nice but would need to see it on a game of course. We are #517 and probably won't have our game until sometime in June so doubt we could be of any help. Will be curious to see how this pans out though.
These things are usually shipped in batches, especially to distros which means they would go out at different times as it's usually best to have multiple units ready or to fill a container. Obviously distance is a factor, how much the distro ordered, and as Spooky mentioned before, despite their order number, folks all don't pay at the same time which causes delays in shipping out with a batch and forced to wait till next available space. Then direct vs distro orders are gonna have differences in travel times as well. You also got butter cabinet orders which take longer often as those are made in batches as well separate from the non butter units.
Spooky has gone over it before but theres many variables which affect time of arrival.
Quoted from GCS2000:What baffles me is how random delivery seems to be on games (not just a a Spooky thing either). Person above just got 220 but I thought games in the 300s had been getting delivered like #341 just a couple posts above was delivered as well. This really doesn't make sense.Pretty sure we would be interested as we are not great players. Design looks nice but would need to see it on a game of course. We are #517 and probably won't have our game until sometime in June so doubt we could be of any help. Will be curious to see how this pans out though.
Hope this helps....I also had a Cactus Canyon LE on order with KingPin and we waited for it to arrive so he could deliver both to me at the same time, rather than make 2 trips. And, yes, different distributors have different delivery schedules based on how many games they are delivering and where they are going. I'm 3 hours one way from KingPin so it's a full day out of his schedule to deliver a game to me.
It helps that I have plenty of games to keep me busy 
Quoted from Greaseman:Hope this helps....I also had a Cactus Canyon LE on order with KingPin and we waited for it to arrive so he could deliver both to me at the same time, rather than make 2 trips. And, yes, different distributors have different delivery schedules based on how many games they are delivering and where they are going. I'm 3 hours one way from KingPin so it's a full day out of his schedule to deliver a game to me.
It helps that I have plenty of games to keep me busy
Well this does explain why an earlier #221 would be shipping later when games in the 300s are shipping. Makes sense.
Quoted from GCS2000:Saw this on Scooby FB group just now
"Spooky Doo apron mods in the final steps to shipping out today."
[quoted image]
just got my preorder invoice
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