Quoted from BlackBelt:

Congrats on getting the machine! Funny...bashing around up top is one of my favorite things...I'd be pretty bummed if the upper flippers were killed...besides couldn't you just not engage the left flipper when hitting the ramp to achieve this same effect?

Quoted from Vernisious:

CE#297 in the house! Well, actually its at a dog and kid friendly local brewery but in the HOUSE sounds better!
Game is beautiful! Plays fantastic! I do hear a little whine from the flippers when I had the glass off. I don't notice it when playing honestly.
One thing I was thinking when playing regarding code. Occaisionally kill the upper flippers so you can't go up top. I don't know the 'when' or 'why' but for league or tournaments, I could just get up top and bang around for a while. I may not score a lot of points but I could probably play for over an hour. I took the rubber off the upper playfield center post and that makes it harder to stay up. But the ball falls down to the left flipper and I'm right back up top if I want.

Quoted from spooky_dj:

I'm not sure I follow; are you saying your flippers are activating while you're in the switch test menu?? Because I don't think that should be happening. Definitely let AJ know if that is the case. The end-of-stroke switch is physically located on the flipper mech, not the cabinet buttons. So the actual movement of the flipper bat is what mechanically causes that switch to close.

We are definitely considering ways to limit access to the upper, like having to do something to qualify the use of the bookcase to get up there. If we did implement that, it'd be several updates down the road, and we'd likely make that a menu option, as it almost seems like a 50/50 split on whether people want upper PF access to be easy vs hard. Upper flipper whine is still on the radar too, although again I can't give a specific eta. Mechanical dampening might be a quick fix until that update comes.

Quoted from BlackBelt:

Nice! At one point I swapped all my pins to Titan 'low bounce' and then after awhile went back to regular titans...certainly worth testing to see what fits your playing style and enhances the overall experience. BTW...great JDJP stream the other day, thanks!

Quoted from TreyBo69:

Because there's more downside then upside to killing flippers in mini playfields. If the switch detecting balls entering the Mando Helmet is broken, then the whole toy is basically broken. And the game could get confused during multiball about where everything is.

Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

I hear it with the glass on and sound turned up while playing. So does my daughters and wife. The high pitch whine is annoying and not going to wear ear plugs. New code update did not take care of it on my #32

Quoted from TreyBo69:

Because there's more downside then upside to killing flippers in mini playfields. If the switch detecting balls entering the Mando Helmet is broken, then the whole toy is basically broken. And the game could get confused during multiball about where everything is.

Quoted from TreyBo69:

Because there's more downside then upside to killing flippers in mini playfields. If the switch detecting balls entering the Mando Helmet is broken, then the whole toy is basically broken. And the game could get confused during multiball about where everything is.

Quoted from TreyBo69:

Because there's more downside then upside to killing flippers in mini playfields. If the switch detecting balls entering the Mando Helmet is broken, then the whole toy is basically broken. And the game could get confused during multiball about where everything is.

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

I was going to put my 2 cents worth in earlier. I'm glad I'm not alone on this opinion. Please just let them flip. The potential for errors with sensors turning the flippers on and off just isn't worth the risk. Especially during multiball. Games have had upper playfield flippers for a long long time. Plenty of solid state and dmd examples of this. Black Knight, Grand Lizard, Haunted House, White Water, etc etc etc .... and those games got the shit played out of them on location. SD upper flippers will be just fine without meddling with their function. They don't wear any faster than your lower flippers, and how often do you actually rebuild those?

Quoted from lpeters82:

We can probably add a menu option, so users can decide to have them enabled or disabled. We discussed the option, but when Halloween / Ultraman shipped we had high percentage of people saying there upper flipper were broken due to it not activating until the qualification was complete.

Quoted from sulli10:

So after replacing the Mosfet and the shaker board, I played the game about 25 times with no issues. This has been the most trouble free run on the game so far.
As far as the Mosfet issue, at first I was wondering if it is a design problem, now I am starting to think it is a construction problem. If it was a design issue, more people would be having issues. Since in construction there can be more variances that may be why some are good and some are not.
The Mosfets are blowing due to over current most likely. That would be either because of poor design or a ground in the circuit. With all the circuits seemingly tied together , grounds may be the issue
When I got my game, the play field lights were not working. Turns out one of the light boards at the bottom of the playfield was touching a metal bracket. Got space between the board and the bracket and the lights worked. A thermal protected the circuit I was told.
As far shaker board. Mine was very close to the metal grating for the cab speaker and the amp. My shaker never worked. I moved the board to a spot to the left were it was touching no metal. Right now it is working. I know there are plastic spacers lifting the board via the screws but Looking at the underside of the board, there are two protruding solder connections that could have been a ground point with the amp or the speaker grating. Moved the board about 5 inches to the right so far all is good.
Looking under the play field after thinking about this and found two other spots where boards were touching metal brackets. Loosened the board screws a bit to open up some gaps.
I understand that the light circuits are different than the coil circuits but they do go thru one board. The shaker misfit definitely could have been caused by a field ground.

Quoted from Sethman:

Talk to Game of Thrones premium and le owners who have to pull their upper playfield every 300 plays to clean all the dust and crud that comes off the upper flipper mechs flailing about unnecessarily.

Quoted from Sethman:

Talk to Game of Thrones premium and le owners who have to pull their upper playfield every 300 plays to clean all the dust and crud that comes off the upper flipper mechs flailing about unnecessarily.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

I wouldn’t trade it for the world.

Quoted from lpeters82:Probably obvious, but did you enable the "normal" flipper setting in the menu? Also, for a few games on the line I've had to go from "normal" back to "boost", start a game and then go back to normal for the setting to take effect. Also just a note that this change is only for the lower flippers. The upper coils handle power in a completely different manor, so for testing make sure you are only activating the lowers.

Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

They are on normal. Also coil whine is coming from all flippers. Appreciate the help though.

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Just venting, but I'm ready to sell this damn thing due to left outlane drains because of the drop targets. Serious design issue. And for Gods sake, stop it with "shoot the mystery machine" already!

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Just venting, but I'm ready to sell this damn thing due to left outlane drains because of the drop targets. Serious design issue. And for Gods sake, stop it with "shoot the mystery machine" already!

Quoted from dnapac:

Never had cheap drains with my post at the top. Just feels right…and normal drains that I can save with “ruh, roh.”

Quoted from nicoga3000:

Curious if there's a software fix for this problem. I've seen the problem mentioned a few times...Don't have my game yet, so I don't quite know what the issue is and how it manifests. Is it simply that the ball rolls off the lowest most open drop target and dribbles down the outlane??

Quoted from dnapac:

Never had cheap drains with my post at the top. Just feels right…and normal drains that I can save with “ruh, roh.”

Quoted from SpookyLuke:

These have been extremely finnicky lately. Working on multiple solutions long term. In the short term we have been able to get them to work well with some adjustment. Usually bending the fingers that contact the ball a bit to the left or spreading them out some has worked well for me. Sorry I know its aggravating!

Quoted from Boat:

Anyone have more fixes or resolutions for this ? My ball launch was kinda weak before , now it can’t even make it up out of the shooter lane.
I tired to re adjust the mech, I think I made it worse

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Just venting, but I'm ready to sell this damn thing due to left outlane drains because of the drop targets. Serious design issue. And for Gods sake, stop it with "shoot the mystery machine" already!

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Just venting, but I'm ready to sell this damn thing due to left outlane drains because of the drop targets. Serious design issue. And for Gods sake, stop it with "shoot the mystery machine" already!

Quoted from Green-Machine:

Try removing left outlane post rubber.

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Just venting, but I'm ready to sell this damn thing due to left outlane drains because of the drop targets. Serious design issue.

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

When we use the launch button to lock in a mode, is there a visual indicator on the screen or playfield that indicates the locked/unlocked status? I don't see one. It's definitely needed if I'm not already present

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

I may give that a try tonight. I suppose the post will stay in the top position permanently

Quoted from GrooTheWanderer:

As a simple solution suggestion for Spooky, maybe just change the blinking color of the mode's insert when locked vs not? Much more straightforward than having to look at the display for status. Probably easier to code too....

Quoted from Green-Machine:

It has helped on other games I’ve owned but haven’t verified anything on scoob yet

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Just venting, but I'm ready to sell this damn thing due to left outlane drains because of the drop targets. Serious design issue. And for Gods sake, stop it with "shoot the mystery machine" already!

Quoted from ls1chris:

do you need a snickers??? LOL!!! kidding aside, i removed that rubber on the left post and it does help! i run my games steeper than recommended, i like them a tad faster ( im at 7.2) and as a trade off i don't install the tilt bob on the thread bar so we can nudge away, but my pins are not location pins.

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

I definitely needed a snickers last night...lol. I'll remove the rubber and see how it plays. I'm level left to right, not sure on pitch. I lowered the front legs and raised the back legs almost all the way, so I know I'm somewhat steep. Is your post in the highest position?

Quoted from SpacelySpliffs:

Topper question. Does the lighting color change on the topper at any point? My topper LEDs only light up blue and never change colors. Curious if I have an issue or if that is just how it is?

Quoted from Var1AbL3:

This is a known problem that has a simple fix. Next time you boot up the game open the backbox and hold the little button on the board next to the computer - only board in the backbox. Once the game boots let go of the button, close the backbox and it should work for good from here (just a one time fix).

Quoted from Boat:

Anyone have more fixes or resolutions for this ? My ball launch was kinda weak before , now it can’t even make it up out of the shooter lane.
I tired to re adjust the mech, I think I made it worse

Quoted from Boat:

So quick update on my lockup issues related to the left flipper,
Spooky DJ reached out to me and suggested monitoring the eos in switch test by moving the flipper bat manually. He said he noticed the eos triggering way more than it should.
I noticed the same on my game.
He suggested cleaning the contacts with a business card.(basically sandwiching the contacts with the card in between and rubbing back and forth) I used a piece of card stock followed by a piece of card stock with some iso propyl alcohol.
It sounds crazy but it actually fixed the issue.
There was no visible corrosion that I could see but maybe some sort of coating from the manufacturer/supplier causing issues? Or moisture corrosion.
Any rate I played two FULL games without any issues which I have never done.
Time to get some high scores except this furry guy loves pinball too and is way too much of a flooof
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