I mean, I'm not trying to knock a fellow vendor on Pinside. But yeah, that's why we rolled our own alternative.

If you want to swap out only the display panel, you just have to make sure its connector is compatible with the one on the HDMI driver board that Spooky is using, then figure out how to mount it. Alternatively, you can replace the whole monitor and driver board as long as the new board runs on 12v, uses HDMI, and has a 1/8" audio passthrough jack... and you'll still have to figure out how to mount it. But it's all very doable. We have one of our homegrown solutions in our TNA, R&M, and Scooby and they look great.

The big difference is going to be that the IPS screens will have deeper blacks, more vibrant colors, and better side-to-side and up-and-down visibility angles.

It’s so much better with the IPS. I’m a little taller and all the spooky screens look washed out from my view. I have to crouch down to get a good view. Looks good from every angle now.

If you haven't already, reach out to support. That way the issue is sure to get logged, and sure to get some visibility.

Here are the 3 ball trap protectors I received from Spooky

20230419_142607 (resized).jpg

When I restored my Indiana Jones I had buzzing when flipper was raised. Figured out coil sleeve wasn’t put on right and loose so it moved and vibrated. Check this.

Got those today as well!

Same here, still buzzing.

I let AJ know

I also noticed this on my game.

There is always a flipper Humm or buzz to an extent. What I would consider a reasonable extent typically. Previous code though the specific pulse caused a high pitch whine. We were able to take care of that on the games we tested in the shop. Maybe send a video to service and we can take a look. I can do some testing tomorrow on some games on the line as well and see how those are.

On the outlane posts - I'm planning to add two identical posts in the empty holes - what are the rubber washers? I have to hit the HW store for the right size tee nuts anyway.
20230419_183827 (resized).jpg
I also got the replacement "hand" plastic from Spooky the other day. Does anyone have a good method of bending this properly? Maybe a heat gun and the rounded edge of something .
20230419_184724 (resized).jpg

literally just put a black hand on 30 minutes ago.
I just screwed it on then lightly heat gunned it. Easy peasey.

Same plan here.

I’m not sure if it’s a bug or just a one time thing, but I had it lose track of the number of balls when I had SSMB going and then started MMMB while I still had two balls. I’m on the just released code.

Anyone else have that happen?

The dimensions and scale are all wrong, as I don't have a post on hand to measure accurately. Here is a proof of concept for a 3D printed post that will connect to the lower post position using the exsisting post stud, but create a new post positioned halfway between the two available post hole locations. I will try and work on this concept a little more this weekend and 3D print something out.

Thoughts and ideas are welcome.

3d post-scooby (resized).png

Loving my scooby doo
Crank back legs up all the way
Wax or even better plexus the upper playfield and Do the stronger spring or springs and the game including upper will rip and upper is so much fun!

Did you guys have to request them or did Spooky just send them? I've still only had 1 ball get stuck after a month of owning (coming off the upper playfield to the left), but would like to add these to my game.

Request them, just send Morgan an email and your shipping address.

Nope. Haven’t gotten notice. They said about 28 days to ship and it’s been longer than that at this point so should be any day now.

Okay so as I mentioned again my scooby was locking up mid game.

I managed to play a game completely with no lockdown bar . I noticed a couple things off.

Ring light is only half lit.
Zip tie in ring light melted/cut?
Ring light positioning, where should it be? It looked Ike it was sitting close to the lockdown bar so maybe that was shorting ?
Is there supposed to be a wire sitting in my right lockdown receiver ?
Finally loose hex screw .

If someone could send pics of their setup under the lockdown bar that would be awesome
1F530850-A036-4531-A4EB-FFA59246DE7D (resized).jpegCEEEC71A-9731-4C48-B34A-721B7636C36E (resized).jpegD02A0D35-FECE-4A19-80A6-57CACE9A983B (resized).jpegDB46C483-AA86-41E7-8C04-77EA8B8D1992 (resized).jpeg

Unless the back of that ring light board is protected, it's a short begging to happen. I wonder why Spooky opted for a full size ring like that? Most I've seen are a single LED under the reciever. The ring seems like overkill and kind of cumbersome??

There is a plexi bracket that it mounts to and protects it from shorting.

I was gonna use a little hot glue to keep it in place. Mine is loose too.

Gotcha, thanks for the info. It still seems like waaay to much lighting though. Anyway, I still look forward to receiving my game!

I did end up completely unplugging it and the game froze again.

I will install the 4.18 and I guess troubleshoot some more!

Similar LED rings are used around the flipper buttons on the sides of the cabinet

I took a video of it. Will send to service
Update. Video sent to service.

Not like this one. It's huge. Flipper button kits are also usually single LEDs or a flat printed low profile board with tiny LEDs. I'm not arguing that Spooky did anything "wrong", it just seems like a rather large LED array to try and fit into a rather tight space.

The SD I play on location has a pretty wobbly lockdown bar. I hope this is not a normal thing.

The gold screws in the images above are the adjustment to tighten a loose lockdown bar.

I adjusted mine but still a little play in it, mainly on the left side. Will have to try to fine tune it a bit more.

#241 was delivered yesterday and here is my experience.

The box showed no signs of mistreatment during shipping. Got it unboxed and into the game room and its a beast for sure, very heavy. Nothing was missing out of the box, no scrapes or dings, and zero issues aesthetically, as it was very well packed. I inspected everything on top of the play-field and found no issues there. New plastics have been installed to stop the reported ball traps, there were no low hanging wires under the upper play-field, no missing hand plastics or anything else I could find. Next, I pulled up the play-field and inspected the bottom. There were no screws or anything in the bottom of the cab, soldering looks good everywhere, checked all the pin connectors and data cable connections and they were all good, checked the shooter mechanism and there was very little side-to-side play with that. The only thing I could find was one of the servo connectors was unplugged from the main board, but it was obvious where it went and there was no damage to anything. So I freed up a bit of slack and plugged it in with no issues. Once I was satisfied, I put the play-field down, added the balls, installed my VooDoo glass and turned it on. No issues at all on boot up. Game fired up, all lights were on and working, including the topper. I noticed that installed code was from February, so before I even played a game, I installed the new code update. Very easy to do, zero issues at all and my game fired right up immediately ready to go! At this point, I breathed a big sigh of relief, as I had none of the problems that have been reported here and was ready to enjoy some Scooby Doo. Here are my first impressions of the game play after only getting in a handful of games.

The good...
This game is gorgeous in person! We've all seen the pictures, but until you see it up close and in person, you don't really get how pretty this game is. The cabinet (non-butter) is beautiful, the powder coating really "pops" and is amazing, the play-field art and the world under the glass are stunning, and the light show is next level great!! TS4 has a great light show, and Scooby is on par with that, but better. I love the use of the shaker to simulate a heart beat increasing its pace as the bravery meter gets low. Really great use of that feature so far. The game play flows much better than expected. Once I learn the game more, it should be very easy to flow from shot to shot as almost everything can or does feed right back to the flippers. Learning to divert the ball with the bookcase started to come naturally after a couple of games for me. Outlane pins were set at the lowest position from Spooky and the outlanes didn't feel extra hungry like some have said, and in fact I don't think I drained on the right at all. Call outs were easy to follow and it was pretty easy to see what needed to be done with the lights on the play-field. Ball launcher worked fine every time. I was able to get balls locked on the apron and play the scooby snack multiball once and its a super cool way to lock balls for a multiball. Fun!!

The kinda bad...
Not too much here. I definitely would get a set of the side art protectors for when you have to lift the play-field. It is really, really tight to the sides. You have a large chance of damaging your art blades if you don't use the protectors. I have a set, so I had them in when I lifted mine and I'm glad I did. As far as game play goes, the mystery machine shot is tough! Reminds me of the tight shot on Houdini for the chest ball lock. Very tight. Also, shooting the scoop behind the scooby snack drops is very hard to hit. Think "mark it zero" shot on TBL. Very satisfying though when you do get it. As far as audio goes, the music is fine for me, but Velma telling me to shoot the mystery machine over and over could get a bit annoying, especially with the shot being difficult to hit. Finally, in regards to the bookcase flipper, it needs more tension or an adjustment to be able to use it effectively. Its cool and I like its use as a diverter, but it could be better used if it batted the ball with more force. I will be reading up on the ways some of you have used to fix this.

The Summary...
I'm extremely happy that I purchased this game. I was a bit worried after seeing some of the issues keep popping up here in this forum, but I'm glad I stuck with my first impressions and my faith in the Spooky family to make a great game. They definitely love pinball and what they do and it shows up all over this game. From the killer art package, to the coding, to the play-field layout, you can see and feel their passion, not to mention the support they give on the back end. Any concerns that I had pop up over the last few months were immediately put to rest based on Spooky's responses both here in the forum and in the factory. They obviously listen and adapt as needed so that we all get the best experience possible. They truly are the best at this aspect in our hobby. So, kudos to Spooky on a well built machine and for coming up with a really fun game and theme well done! Those waiting should not be disappointed!!

Again lube that upper playfield up with your choice I used plexus which I use anywhere I need maximum anti friction and I bought that little tool that can assist you in the spring mod those two changes along with rear legs at max really opened up the fun factor by a lot.

It def. gets easier. Felt the same way at first... then it comes more natural with time. Just must be a funky spot on the flipper.

I’ve still got some time until mine comes…But what is the spring mod you speak of?

And side art protectors seem smart. Where can I buy those?

https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

https://nitropinball.com/products/interior-cabinet-game-blade-protector-set

https://mezelmods.com/products/pinball-cabinet-assembly-blades

.

I will do that, thanks for the suggestion. Legs already at max to hit 7 degrees. I'm going to look back through the thread to see what the spring mod entails.

Slapdrain posted about the spring mod.

When is the shaker used,I have not felt a single rumble?

Fantastic report, thanks for sharing! sounds like you have a great unboxing routine that others may want to follow for NIB pins...likely saved you a lot of grief! Stoked for #398 over here!

I have only felt the shaker when I'm about to run out of time in a mode.

I found it and watched his stream with the new springs. It definitely helps, it's not perfect, but its better for sure.

I love the way the game loads new code,so easy compared to other spooky games which I have had some trouble loading.
Also I believe I used a stronger spring than the game in the stream and it work’s great

Did you turn the flipper power up?

Return spring changes the return power. For the bookcase flipper. Upping flipper power won’t affect that.

Slapdrain mentioned in his stream that he turned it up from 50 to 65 so I was curious if rockrand did the same thing. Which would make sense with double the resistance from the new springs.

yeah it would, the flipper has to work harder to flip up by overcoming the stronger spring

might not be noticeable in practice, but the coil is working harder and heating up faster (not that fade would be much of an issue on that upper playfield)

Funny mone is wobbly as well been working with Spooky on it and the last sent me an entire lockdown bar mechanism. MY try to deal with it this weekend. Outside of that we good.