Light on topper and the action button went out… anyone know where they are plugged in or where the pic board is ?

Mine went out after the update. I held the white button on the board in the back box that others had recommended as working for them. Board is to the left of the PC. I turned off the machine and held the white button while I turned it back on and held it down until I heard Fred's voice meaning it had booted

I did what Svenop suggested and my lights been cool since.

I just had my best game yet. Almost broke 4M.

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I suck, I'm hitting 600k. The left outlanes get most of my balls

RL Shipping

Mine is supposedly them too .. weird

I'm thinking about moving or adding a post too.

Thanks for the info on the Pinstadiums. I'll hold off until my game eventually shows up before deciding.

It looks really difficult to move due to a board underneath. I'd like to hear if anyone has bright ideas on how to do this without too much work.

I've seen some folks use Star Posts at outlanes on other games. Would that work here?

Agreed, I popped up the PF over the weekend to move those posts and saw those middle outlane posts are long and act as standoffs for the PCBs.

So, I'm thinking I'll take two more identical posts and put them in the empty hole. That way I can avoid messing with the PCBs and I can just use t'nuts (or whatever the flat nuts usually used on these posts are called). I'll report how it works out.

139 was delivered today.

Looks great!

My topper back plastic was slightly bent .

Unfortunately on boot there are a number of errors and the game locks up randomly in play and was unable to finish a game.

Time to start troubleshooting !

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I am considering leaving the left outlane post where it is and adding a #8 T-nut to the underside of the playfield in the hole further up so that a #8 bolt of the appropriate length could be easily screwed in and out from above when small kids are playing to tighten up the outlane. A washer, nuts and a rubber ring can be added to the bolt to create a pseudo-post and have the correct depth of thread within the T-nut so it does not hit the circuit board below. I know this is not as secure as a lock nut below the playfield but it should not take too much beating.

The left side circuit board looks like it might slide off after taking out the 4 or 5 screws.
The circuit board on the right looks more tricky as the post is screwed into it from above the playfield.

I moved my posts up and I’m loving how it plays. The left outlanes were annoying the hell out of me before so it was totally worth a bit of extra effort.

I was putting off moving the post because it looked like a pain and trying to do it with the light boards in the way was a waste of time. However, removing the boards was super easy w/ just 2-3 skews each. After those are out of the way, it was simple to move the posts up.

Before modifying your playfield, double check that it is level. I have never, not even once, had what I thought of as a cheap or unfair drain to the left outlane from the drops. In fact I have always been impressed how perfectly it feeds the inlane from that area. Obviously your mileage may vary from tolerances, but I’m really surprised to hear this is an issue for some. I have even thought about opening up my inlanes since it actually seems hard to drain sometimes. I bet 90% or more of my drains are from the center, even with the drop target save.

100% agree this is the place to start. Unfortunately, checking/adjusting didn’t do the trick for me. More often than not, balls would hit the back top corner of the bumper and bounce right over to the outlane. Moving the post up resolved this for me. Installing less bouncy rubbers might have also helped but I’m happy with it now.

I wish there was an in between hole in the left side....I move it up and now the ball almost never gets through. Going to try to remove the rubber ring on the post.

I agree. I would probably go half way too. I like the ability to dial it in just right on Rick & Morty. I think I’ll mess with the rubbers at some point and maybe even look at adjusting behind the drop targets to see about having the ball feed down from there in a way that doesn’t have it bounce right into the outlane. For now, I’ll take playing with the post in little kid position over pissing me off position.

Haha. Yes. I just wasn't able to control it with a nudge at all. I like the ball save when lighting both outlanes but it just wasn't enough!

Luckily, you have two of the best games ever next to it to play.

Supposedly mine will ship today, not sure why others went without it but I shall be patient haha . Probably get it monday.

Has anyone tried putting the UV starposts and star post lights on Spooky games? Are the GIs on Scooby 6.5v?

Just got the call, #241 out for delivery!!

Congrats! More Washington Scoobs...please let us know how everything goes!

Everything in the game is controlled lighting on their custom boards, there is no stand alone GI that you can tap into.

Does anyone have a close up picture of the outlane post and the holes? I have not see what the spacing looks like in any picutres.

Good to know! First Spooky for me.

Curious if anyone has received their Back Alley apron mods yet? I 'm sure they're really busy, just curious if they've started to go out yet?

For a "medium" adjustment, you may be able to put a star post in the lower hole position. That might hit the sweet spot. Maybe....

Thank you.

Yup. I believe this is what I've seen people doing with other games.

Something like this?

https://www.pinballlife.com/avengers-infinity-quest-outlane-post-mod.html

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That seems overly generous in protection geez. I can see why some folks thought the early models were waaaay to easy

That's up from the lower stock position. Id be surprisded if operators were removing them and moving them up to that position

It's pretty easy playing in general. Mostly safe shots that aren't hard to find and without too many dangerous targets (ie no big bash toy). And if you're missing shots, the SD standups bring up the ball save drop. The need some code options to disable the drop save, or have it auto drop after so many seconds. You can stay on the upper playfield for a long time once you get used to how floaty it is. (Some may want to pull the upper PF center post, or at least take off the rubber)

The game tries to make it up by making the modes more elaborate/complex. But the ball times are pretty long overall.

Maybe now that there are reasons to shoot the drops, that may help speed up ball times.

Owning Rick & Morty has my brain reaching for the Anti Gravity button on all pins when the ball gets near an outlane.

The one I just saw unboxed, the posts were installed in the high spot. Maybe it's inconsistent from the factory.

As an aside I looked at the TWIP article for Scooby Doo and noticed their prototype didn't seem to have any adjustments. So I'm glad they tweaked that. (Halloween/Ultraman also didn't have them)

Lol, I am constantly reaching for that mag save button. But, Scooby-Doo seems to have a lot less right-side drains.

Yes, that. I don't have my machine yet, so I haven't tested anything, but it may be a solution.

#268 reporting in and I am very happy to announce the game was 100 % except some minor adjustments with levels of drop targets! And games after 268 will have new code installed!

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In case anyone missed it - there was a bit of a silent Scooby update yesterday of bug fixes.

https://www.spookypinball.com/game-support/

Just curious do you have pics of the new display installed?

And where does one get this upgraded display?

We rolled our own IPS monitor solution to keep the cost down, but this is at least one option: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1202-pinball-mod-co/05321-upgraded-ips-lcd-for-spooky-pinball-machines

I posted a video with them on my Scooby.

what a rip off, 295 for a monitor and 105. for a cheese bracket!?!!?

It looks brighter in the picture. I am running at around 90%. In person it looks really good in my opinion. A lot of beautiful artwork there in the playfield. But I get that for some it’s too bright. But the family and I like it. Definitely a huge improvement. Got it for my GZ pro, will do my BM66 next.

So looks like code update didn’t fix it. I tried turning the flipper power down but humm still there. It’s not as loud but still there. Even with the sound turned up my family and I can still hear it. And insight Spooky??

I didn't notice this till you posted, so thanks! I did install the update on my game and it went even more smoothly than the previous update. I plugged in the USB with just the new update on it, powered up the game and was easily able to start the update in the menu. This time when it finished I got a message on the screen "Update Finished, Remove USB and Restart the Game". Last time, I don't remember that "remove the USB" part, and forgot to do that, so it didn't boot right the first boot after the last update. I also had issues with my topper, etc. lights that did NOT happen with this update.

Is it just a standard HDMI connection so basically any display you can make fit in there will work as long as it has an HDMI port and can be plugged into the cabinet via its own power supply?

I only ask because I picked up a gorgeous 15.6" IPS QHD LCD for my VPIN about a year ago from Uperfect and really looks good in there.

Not saying I am replacing the screen as we didn't really notice any issues with the unit we played but not against making a change if need be.