Bucks County, PA
Quoted from gorditas:How could Spooky possibly be in full control of the shipping costs, when the shipping is done by outside vendors?
I have no idea.
(Topic ID: 331168)
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Quoted from JakePG:Interesting. Thanks for sharing. I was given a price of $580.
And I was told Spooky is in full control of the shipping costs.
I paid $375 last March for delivery to my house in Michigan. Ordered direct from Spooky and they used RL Carriers.
Quoted from JakePG:Would anybody care to share how much they paid for shipping? I feel like my charge is considerably high.
I went through my e-mails: I told my distributor that I wanted it shipped to a hub, as from experience, this is not only the cheapest option, but usually gets the game to my house a day earlier. I think it also reduces the chances of damage, since there are fewer trips in and out of a truck. It was just under $300 to Michigan for my Scooby.
Quoted from monitorpop:I paid $375 last March for delivery to my house in Michigan. Ordered direct from Spooky and they used RL Carriers.
Same here, $365 in early 2023 direct from Spooky via R&L
I like to give folks some perspective (for clarity, I own both a JP Pro and a GZ Pre) this is a shot from a Stern Jaws.
It's even worse than my GZ, and that is not good.
Some of the worst clear coating I have even seen on a modern game.
Compare that to your Scooby. Or my UM. Or HWN or R&M.
Credit where credit is due.
RussM
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from RussMyers:I like to give folks some perspective (for clarity, I own both a JP Pro and a GZ Pre) this is a shot from a Stern Jaws.
It's even worse than my GZ, and that is not good.
Some of the worst clear coating I have even seen on a modern game.
Compare that to your Scooby. Or my UM. Or HWN or R&M.
Credit where credit is due.
RussM
[quoted image]
It’s Stern so I assume they market that as a special crackled leather playfield finish and charge more for it…
Sydney
Quoted from RussMyers:I like to give folks some perspective (for clarity, I own both a JP Pro and a GZ Pre) this is a shot from a Stern Jaws.
It's even worse than my GZ, and that is not good.
Some of the worst clear coating I have even seen on a modern game.
Compare that to your Scooby. Or my UM. Or HWN or R&M.
Credit where credit is due.
RussM
[quoted image]
Lots of my recent Sterns have looked like that - my DP even seemed to play a bit weird because of it. It's as if there was more grip on the playfield and the ball spin made it crazy. Spooky playfields have been the best by far in my experience, with American Pinball not far behind. All my Spooky and AP playfields are still almost glassy smooth - the dimples are there of course, but very slight you can only see them if you look really hard.
Quoted from monitorpop:It’s Stern so I assume they market that as a special crackled leather playfield finish and charge more for it…
The day I unboxed my GZ I called Stern because I consider that an obvious defect and they said its was "within expected parameters".
That tells you everything you need to know about their attitude.
RM
Yes our SD looks amazing. My MBRLE is dimpled like crazy. The MMRLE I just got is nowhere near as bad. CCRLE which we got last year I haven't seen any issues.
GZ - fortunately mine seems fine but I haven't gone over it super fine though. It has probably 1400 plays on it at this point.
Quoted from RussMyers:The day I unboxed my GZ I called Stern because I consider that an obvious defect and they said its was "within expected parameters".
That tells you everything you need to know about their attitude.
RM
Not cool. I have not purchased a Stern since I got a NIB South Park from them many years ago. These days I prefer to support the smaller companies like Spooky.
Quoted from JakePG:Would anybody care to share how much they paid for shipping? I feel like my charge is considerably high.
We do not mark up any shipping and simply pass on the quotes we receive from the vendor. The employee that handles shipping quotes is out right now, but we can probably double check the price to see if it is accurate.
Quoted from lpeters82:We do not mark up any shipping and simply pass on the quotes we receive from the vendor. The employee that handles shipping quotes is out right now, but we can probably double check the price to see if it is accurate.
I understand shipping is what it is, but for WI to PA $580 seems a bit high.
I paid about half that (ish) from WI to NJ last June.
Shipping costs have gone nuts though.
RussM
I can tell you in September I paid I think close to 600 for pa to Fl. Maybe ask them to quote to a shipping center instead of your house it may be cheaper.
Quoted from GCS2000:Just got shipping notice for our topper!
Should be next week, yay.
Us too!! Super pumped.
Does anybody need support brackets made?
So I almost said it in my post about the 3D printed bracket, and then deleted it, but now I’m already being PMed about it.
The guy earlier posted the 3D print file so people would have a free option, but not everybody has access to a 3D printer. I obviously don’t want to make money on this, BUT I have a buddy that already prints pinball shadow boxes for me (stern Bally Williams) and I wire them up for leds. Anyway, he printed the support bracket for me, and said he would make more if I need them. So while trying to make this easy, and not trying to sound like I’m making money off a free file. If anybody wants the 2 printed pieces (support bracket and prong cover) I’ll do them for $10 with shipping to lower 48. He’s not very local to me but I do visit him regularly. But I’m going to try and go ahead and pick up a handful of them this weekend when I see him. Also while installing mine, I used the screws I use for lighting playfields I put on walls, they are the control lamp screws from early SS Ballys (I know for sure) I have a ton of them. I’ll also put 6 of those in the box as well. Color might vary, but I really liked the translucent green he did for me. Or they might be black or purple. lol if you actually care, tell me or it will be random of those 3.
Quoted from Jesterfunhouse:Before I contact Spooky has anyone had their shaker motor stop working? I have had it since august and to be honest not sure when it stopped working I finally noticed this week.
I am running v2023.10.28.23. In the settings it is turned on including spinners and capt and the pulse I pushed up to 60%. In test mode it does nothing just makes that drip sound when I push the test button. I tried reseating the two connectors on that small board it connects to. I opened the protective case and the wires seemed to be attached okay. Any other troubleshooting or similar experience?
As and update Spooky Tech support lived up to its reputation! AJ responded to my email almost instantly (Literally within 4 minutes- See screenshot) He was able to guide me to trace the issue back to a MOSFET that failed on the Warden board. A couple days later they send me a new Warden Board and Shaker Motor board and Today I am back having a working shaker! THANKS SPOOKY AJ!
Screenshot 2024-02-01 210702 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Kolk1:Does anybody need support brackets made?
So I almost said it in my post about the 3D printed bracket, and then deleted it, but now I’m already being PMed about it.
The guy earlier posted the 3D print file so people would have a free option, but not everybody has access to a 3D printer. I obviously don’t want to make money on this, BUT I have a buddy that already prints pinball shadow boxes for me (stern Bally Williams) and I wire them up for leds. Anyway, he printed the support bracket for me, and said he would make more if I need them. So while trying to make this easy, and not trying to sound like I’m making money off a free file. If anybody wants the 2 printed pieces (support bracket and prong cover) I’ll do them for $10 with shipping to lower 48. He’s not very local to me but I do visit him regularly. But I’m going to try and go ahead and pick up a handful of them this weekend when I see him. Also while installing mine, I used the screws I use for lighting playfields I put on walls, they are the control lamp screws from early SS Ballys (I know for sure) I have a ton of them. I’ll also put 6 of those in the box as well. Color might vary, but I really liked the translucent green he did for me. Or they might be black or purple. lol if you actually care, tell me or it will be random of those 3.
I think this is great, a reasonable price.
Unmasked the the King of Spook, the Space Kook, tonight!
Also, I feel Velma's mode is loaded. I need to go back and watch Bug play. Not only do you have Shaggy getting smashed over the head, Fred roping gargoyles, and Dracula in an iron maiden, you have one of the most kickass soundtracks.
A Gaggle of Galloping Ghosts was always my favorite episode since I was a kid because of the homages to the Universal Monsters. Spooky excelled in adapting it, from the various modes and shout outs (pickled vampire wings!!) To the playfield itself with Franken castle and the Wolfman sculpt. Superb.
Any chance we could get an official release of the complete soundtrack? I should have asked on the stream tonight!
Quoted from Jesterfunhouse:As and update Spooky Tech support lived up to its reputation! AJ responded to my email almost instantly (Literally within 4 minutes- See screenshot) He was able to guide me to trace the issue back to a MOSFET that failed on the Warden board. A couple days later they send me a new Warden Board and Shaker Motor board and Today I am back having a working shaker! THANKS SPOOKY AJ!
[quoted image]
Why did the Mosfet fail on the Warden board if there's a fuse on the shaker ?
it seems that whenever there's a problem somewhere, the Warden breaks down.
i'm also waiting for a warden board
Quoted from blaskoa:Has anyone experienced the game freezing after doing the last character mode? I didnt beat them, only 2 that game, but after the last character mode ended, the entire game froze and had to turn it off. This happened two times, the only times I got to 7 character modes.
Thanks,
Yes - twice here also.
Quoted from BlackBelt:On vinyl!
Yes! Please Spooky!
Quoted from pinballM:Why did the Mosfet fail on the Warden board if there's a fuse on the shaker ?
it seems that whenever there's a problem somewhere, the Warden breaks down.
i'm also waiting for a warden board
I am sending the boards back to Spooky so they can review. I can troubleshoot fine but Not technical enough to know why it failed even though the fuse blew.
Quoted from pinballM:Why did the Mosfet fail on the Warden board if there's a fuse on the shaker ?
it seems that whenever there's a problem somewhere, the Warden breaks down.
i'm also waiting for a warden board
I think the better question is why do the Mosfets seem to fail so (relatively, it seems) much?
Quoted from bobukcat:I think the better question is why do the Mosfets seem to fail so (relatively, it seems) much?
I asked about this when I had to get my board replaced. The answer Spooky gave me was that when they were making a portion of the main boards they got a batch of MOSFETs that were bad. The problem is there is no reliable way to test these little pieces of silicone for flaws without some very specialized equipment. The good news was that they said they believe the bad MOSFETs have all been used and mostly identified - if not in the most efficient manner - by us who have had boards go bad.
They also had me send back the old board, so I am betting they are doing some kind of post-mortem on these so they can identify any kind of way they can test for these issues in the future.
The VERY good news is that Spooky cares and will send you a new board in a heartbeat if the one you have goes bad. I have been on the second board for a few months with no issues and the first one lasted well over 500 games in a home environment.
Quoted from Var1AbL3:I asked about this when I had to get my board replaced. The answer Spooky gave me was that when they were making a portion of the main boards they got a batch of MOSFETs that were bad. The problem is there is no reliable way to test these little pieces of silicone for flaws without some very specialized equipment. The good news was that they said they believe the bad MOSFETs have all been used and mostly identified - if not in the most efficient manner - by us who have had boards go bad.
They also had me send back the old board, so I am betting they are doing some kind of post-mortem on these so they can identify any kind of way they can test for these issues in the future.
The VERY good news is that Spooky cares and will send you a new board in a heartbeat if the one you have goes bad. I have been on the second board for a few months with no issues and the first one lasted well over 500 games in a home environment.
Yup, you're probably looking at a specialized x-ray machine. I used to work at Shure (biggest microphone company) and they had them. Was super cool to see x-rayed electronics under magnification!
Quoted from wastedthelight:I used to work at Shure (biggest microphone company) and they had them. Was super cool to see x-rayed electronics under magnification!
So that is why my 20 year old SM-57 is still perfect, and also explains why my SM-7B was so expensive. But, I think you are correct, you would need a specialized high-resolution x-ray machine to test for flaws in the minuscule little blocks of silicone that are modern components.
Quoted from BlackBelt:Hopefully this info proves useful to someone...I sure was stumped for a few weeks!
I started to develop what I thought was an issue with my SD (CE#398...spoiler alert...the pin is perfectly fine). I would be in the middle of a game and the machine would act like I had drained (it had not) or it would start kicking out multiple balls. OK...first thought, must be a switch issue...one must be getting stuck or a solder joint is cold/came loose or even a connector came off. Thoroughly checked all switch action/movement, solder joints, connections...rock solid, no issues! Switch test menu...working over all the switches by hand...all checks out to be correct! So what's the issue?! It keeps getting worse over time...nearly every game now...false drains and a bajillion extra balls and the answer was so simple...
MAGNETISM!
When I bought Scooby I immediately put in 7 Titan 'Super Shiny' balls (notorious for becoming magnetized, they even warn you when buying). It may not seem like it...but Scooby has a fair amount of magnets in it. I removed the Titans and sure enough they were magnetized as all heck and sticking to each other in the trough in little clusters preventing them from rolling down to the next switch...it was causing all sorts of mayhem to the pins logic! I popped in the 7 balls that came with the pin (assuming pinball life?) and the issue was immediately gone...played through a bunch of games...flawless. YAY! For context I must have around 500 plays on this machine...so, lesson learned...do not use balls in this pin that are prone to become magnetized.
For the record, the spooky crew was amazing in helping troubleshoot every step of the way...kind, insightful and thorough till we fixed it...bug even told me all the details about the next Spooky pin! (J/K...on the last one but I'm certain it will be amazing!)
Happy flipping folks!
Thank you so much for this - was running into the same issue after replacing the originals with Titans. Happened after a few months which was odd. I thought it was due to me tweaking the plunger forks. Replaced the balls again with new Titans - same thing after 2-3 games. Got some new ones from Pinballlife and all is well again.
Quoted from wastedthelight:Yup, you're probably looking at a specialized x-ray machine. I used to work at Shure (biggest microphone company) and they had them. Was super cool to see x-rayed electronics under magnification!
RIP Shure phono cart division 
Would somebody be willing to post pictures of how to do the audio extraction / hdmi. I bought the stuff, just don’t know where to connect it all.
Quoted from BobTheDegen:Would somebody be willing to post pictures of how to do the audio extraction / hdmi. I bought the stuff, just don’t know where to connect it all.
If someone doesn’t get to this before me I will get some pics etc in the AM but it is super easy to do.
Latest code
v2024.01.07.12 was taken offline for a while.
I see it is back on the code page but listed as the same version # which makes me thinks it's identical to before it was pulled offline?
Were changes made to make it more stable or people still facing bugs?
Quoted from Svenop:Latest code
v2024.01.07.12 was taken offline for a while.
I see it is back on the code page but listed as the same version # which makes me thinks it's identical to before it was pulled offline?
Were changes made to make it more stable or people still facing bugs?
Spooky stated sometime back in this thread that the removal was accidental.
Quoted from Rob55:Okay guys, maybe dumb question but how do I remove this coil? Never had to do this before. Spooky sent me a replacement but I don't know which screws or pieces to actually loosen to swap it out.
[quoted image]
The red circle is one of two lock nuts to remove and the bottom bracket will pull off and the coil will come out.
You can't see the other not in this pic but it's there.
Take careful note of any pieces that come off with that bottom bracket and put it back exactly as it was.
You will have to re-solder the wire back in place (green circles)
RM
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Rob55:Okay guys, maybe dumb question but how do I remove this coil? Never had to do this before. Spooky sent me a replacement but I don't know which screws or pieces to actually loosen to swap it out.
[quoted image]
Your picture looks like it has a broken wire, or did you cut it off?
Quoted from Rob55:Thank you @RussMyers
@usafstars: Spooky had me cut as part of testing process to troubleshoot. Gonna be learing how to solder.
I figured that was the answer…but had to check before you took it all apart. Flux is your friend and Youtube has great videos on soldering. Good luck.
Quoted from Rob55:Thank you @RussMyers
@usafstars: Spooky had me cut as part of testing process to troubleshoot. Gonna be learning how to solder.
Maybe consider getting someone around to do it for you - watch what they do and learn the technique. Good investment.
Mike Levitt does housecalls in your area .. maybe hit him up. mikeincali
rd
Quoted from GCS2000:If someone doesn’t get to this before me I will get some pics etc in the AM but it is super easy to do.
I would much appreciate it!! I gave it a go but ended up not getting any sound so I hooked everything back up how it was.
Quoted from BobTheDegen:I would much appreciate it!! I gave it a go but ended up not getting any sound so I hooked everything back up how it was.
Not my pic but does this help?
I saved this from some post earlier.
RM
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from rotordave:Maybe consider getting someone around to do it for you - watch what they do and learn the technique. Good investment.
Mike Levitt does housecalls in your area .. maybe hit him up. mikeincali
rd
Thank you!
Quoted from BobTheDegen:I would much appreciate it!! I gave it a go but ended up not getting any sound so I hooked everything back up how it was.
Sorry ended up going into work early today and still here.
Essentially the pic shows what to do.
Remove the HDMI cable from the back of the LCD screen. Insert it into the IN on the extractor. Then take a second HDMI cable and go from the OUT of the extractor back to the IN on the LCD screen. If do this backwards you will get no image on your LCD screen so you know its wrong.
The shielded audio cable you will connect to the audio out port on the extractor and run that down into the cabinet to the amp near the front of the cabinet near the subwoofer. Unplug the existing audio cable from the back of it and connect the new audio cable in place of it.
Adjust your amp to your liking as well as you game volume.
That's basically all you have to do.
Quoted from Rob55:Okay guys, one more question...what is the magic tool to get this damn nut out? There is so little clearance to get any tool in there.
[quoted image]
Make your life easy. Take off light board, then unscrew the whole drop target assembly. Then you’ll have total access. Don’t remember if you nee to cut a few zip ties to get slack but you’ll figure that out.
Quoted from GCS2000:Sorry ended up going into work early today and still here.
Essentially the pic shows what to do.
Remove the HDMI cable from the back of the LCD screen. Insert it into the IN on the extractor. Then take a second HDMI cable and go from the OUT of the extractor back to the IN on the LCD screen. If do this backwards you will get no image on your LCD screen so you know its wrong.
The shielded audio cable you will connect to the audio out port on the extractor and run that down into the cabinet to the amp near the front of the cabinet near the subwoofer. Unplug the existing audio cable from the back of it and connect the new audio cable in place of it.
Adjust your amp to your liking as well as you game volume.
That's basically all you have to do.
I believe I got it! Didn’t realize I had to go under the playfield haha. Thank you!!!!
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