(Topic ID: 292615)

Scared Stiff speaker cabling repair - Help?

By pinwiz71

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Roamin
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 3 years ago

Hi all. I recently restored a Scared Stiff. I ended up getting the PinSound Board and speakers which included a complete wiring harness for the backbox and cabinet speakers. For some reason I thought it was a good idea to remove the original speaker wiring altogether, which cause me to cut it in a few places for ease of removal. I am not convinced I really like the PinSound components after spending around $700 for everything. Now I am thinking about just going to a normal speaker upgrade and pulling out the PinSound components, plugging things back to the way it was. Now I have the old wiring harness in pieces that run to the cabinet subwoofer lol. Without having to splice everything back together, which I don't want to do, besides the original wiring was a very small gauge wire to begin with - like 22 gauge, are there any options for me? Maybe a speaker upgrade kit that comes with all new wire? Also, the woofer speaker wire terminated in a 4 position IDC on the A/V board. If I use a slightly larger size wire, like 18 gauge stranded, do I need a different type connector rated for 18? I am a little lost now. Any help is appreciated...

#2 3 years ago

Can you use the aftermarket wire harness you got with the kit?

#3 3 years ago

You've come this far. I'd totally rewire the whole speaker system with any good quality Audio Cable.
Anything is better than Williams and Bally ever did. I'm big on keeping games original but the aftermarket
Pinball parts are generally way better than the factory. They were never designed to last any longer than 10,000 hours or 20 years

#4 3 years ago

@Jrotten, I did think about that. I believe, and would have to check, the aftermarket cable's connector to the Pinsound board is different than the one that needs to plug into the OEM A/V board. I would have to look again closer to see how/if I could change connectors.

#5 3 years ago

WH20_Buzz , I totally agree with you on the "keeping things original", but compared to my newer machines, the sound system was very archaic. My only point of confusion now is how to connect any type of audio cable to the A/V board. It is a very specific 4 pin IDC type connector. Pinball Pro has a kit that is plug and play harness for the back box speakers, but requires the use of the original cabinet speaker harness (which is in pieces now). I bought some extra molex connectors that matched the original, but they appear to only be rated for maybe 18 gauge wire max. If I used a beefier audio cable, I don't think it would seat correctly. Thoughts?

#6 3 years ago

What about using the AV out? RCA connectors
I can't see any Sub Woofer separate output. They must rely on a Cap on the Sub as a filter.
Pretty piss weak Audio board considering it doesn't have its only filtering for a Sub out.

The machine has 3 speakers and this new flash Board should be able be configured with at least 3 Audio Channels.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from pinwiz71:

WH20_Buzz , I totally agree with you on the "keeping things original", but compared to my newer machines, the sound system was very archaic. My only point of confusion now is how to connect any type of audio cable to the A/V board. It is a very specific 4 pin IDC type connector. Pinball Pro has a kit that is plug and play harness for the back box speakers, but requires the use of the original cabinet speaker harness (which is in pieces now). I bought some extra molex connectors that matched the original, but they appear to only be rated for maybe 18 gauge wire max. If I used a beefier audio cable, I don't think it would seat correctly. Thoughts?

Not sure why you would want such a big speaker wire ? 18 gauge wire with 8 ohm speakers would equal about 800 watts of power.. 18 gauge as a rating of about 10 amps.. 22 gauge can still provide 5 amps and nearly 200 watts of power. The amp used for your speakers is a TDA2030, it :

Typically it provides 14 W output power (d = 0.5%) at 14 V/4 Ω. At ±14 V or 28 V, the guaranteed output power is 12 W on a 4 Ω load and 8 W on an 8 Ω (DIN45500).

So a speaker can draw a maximum of 12-14 Watts, and you want to use a 800w cable ? There is absolutely nothing wrong with using 22 gauge wires to wire such small speakers, and no gain except toughness of the cable to use such a big wire. Plus , 12-14 watts would mean you're driving the speakers at the maximum volume , all the time , and there is a constant sound playing non stop to generate the full 14 watts.. Your cables are probably pulling about 5-6 watts at the most during a normal game..

Of course , there is nothing really wrong with using such a big wire , but it's really not necessary.

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