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(Topic ID: 209554)

scared stiff realistic eyes for bony beast


2 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 126 posts
  • 45 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by per3per3
  • Topic is favorited by 32 Pinsiders


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#49 2 years ago

Wow this is incredibly cool, it really brings the beast to life!
I'm in too...! Just sent you a PM.

Good idea to simply put a red filter or thin coat of red paint on the lens to tint the eyes. However, yellow looks pretty nice IMO.

Keep up the great work! Just when I though I was done modding my Scared Stiff!

#51 2 years ago

You're right Ted. So many cool mods.
In the first video in this thread, if you watch closely, the eyes move in a coordinated fashion, left to right, etc.

I noticed on that video, Franck has the screens oriented so the eyelids blink from top to bottom, mammal style.

In his DIY video, he mounts them opposite so the lids blink bottom to top. In my opinion that's more badass since it resembles the reptile blink....

#60 2 years ago

Hi Franck,
I'm curious about the 3 stock lights that are in the head. Of course the new eye screens replace the original red eye light bulbs. But there is also the third flasher orange light in the middle that makes a really nice light show during game play.

Is there still enough clearance to keep that middle flasher light once the eye screens, wires, and controller board are installed in the head?

Thanks, and keep up the great work!

#63 2 years ago

Great news that we can keep the middle orange flasher functionality. Thanks for the nice photos and descriptions.

Also the power routing photos are useful. I'm really looking forward to this mod. We'll have to make sure (with spfxted) that everyone in the #Scared Stiff club knows about this!

#66 2 years ago

Hi Franck, for your reference, this is what the stock head bracket looks like with the 3 bulbs still attached. I'm not sure if your friend already removed the bulbs from the bracket before he / she gave it to you.

You can see that while the middle orange light socket attaches near the back (where the arrow points in your picture above), the bulb itself sits much more forward to the front of the skull.

Since that middle bulb is close to the eyes, the clearance looks a bit tight with the screens, controller, etc. from your mod.

However, it seems like all your mod hardware would still fit on top of that orange flasher light. Could you maybe check with a head-on view of the skull with the mod attached? I think it should still fit just fine.


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2 weeks later
#75 2 years ago

Oh Baby!! Look what I got! Even the leads on the power wires are pre-tinned!

Franck, thanks so much for the nice packaging and for the kit. Just to be 100% sure, since polarity is important and I don't want to blow up your creation:
Red wire = positive (even for battery)
Black wire = negative

I hope I have some time to get to the install this weekend, if not, I'll do it sometime within the next week.
I'll make sure to post a lot of photos here.


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#93 2 years ago

Nice work to you guys that already installed it. What did you do with the original eye lights? After removing the 2 sockets from the bracket, did you keep them somewhere around the head, or remove them completely?

#109 2 years ago

Got around to installing my kit a few days ago. Thanks again f-2niro for a very cool mod. It really changes the game in the sense the beast seems "alive" now!

Here are a few installation notes for anyone else that will be doing their DIY kit. Franck has a nice video tutorial earlier in the thread, it's worth watching even if you don't speak French.

- I decided on the red eyes like 30fathomdave in post 92. Although I think the yellow eyes look sweet too!
- With the fit, I had to remove the two original eye light bulb fixtures.
- As Franck recommended, I just drilled off the rivets holding them on, and removed both bulbs with the wires and molex connector as one piece.
- I hooked up the power to a regular 9V battery so I could assemble everything on my table with the screens lit up. This is necessary for positioning behind eye lenses.
- I used scotch tape across the outside of the eye lenses to keep them in position while hot-gluing them on the underside.
- With the eyelids blinking from bottom to top, you can still install the screens in two different 180-degree orientation, it will affect how the larger controller board is oriented in the middle.
- If you check the image here, I installed the screens so the wire connections on the main board are more towards the front. The resistance from the wires holds up that middle board, and so after screens were glued, I didn't have to add any more glue to the other board or power unit.
- I used the recommended connections in the J1 plug of the eddy sensor under the crate, soldered them, and everything works perfectly.
- Plenty of clearance for the orange flasher that sits nicely between the screens.
- To make sure the screen connectors would be less visible through the "nose" area, I wrapped them in black electrical tape.

As a scientist and doctor (hence my username), I love geeky stuff like this and I read through the post from that_pin_dude with the eyes on the teensy. Pretty cool! It seems those screens might be a little too big to fit in the Boney Beast head - but man those spooky dragon eyes (second photo on the link) are cool!! Maybe that can be a neat mod for some other pinball machines.

Here are two quick video clips of the installed eyes.

Cheers guys,

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#114 2 years ago

Hi guys,
Here's a pic of the kit contents from my post last week.

A few posts up I have some installation notes. Kit has everything you need except hot glue gun and time.

You need to be comfortable soldering under the playfield when you tap power from J1 eddy sensor. Franck described this earlier in this thread.


1 month later
#118 2 years ago
Quoted from Barakawins1:

The only question I have is the flasher bulb under the skull... Can this no longer be used? I know the bulbs sockets for the eyes come off, but has anyone been able to use the flasher? Any pics?

Sure, flasher fits perfectly under the eye mod. I have a few photos (other guys put up some nice pics too!) over on Franck's original thread. Check here:

You can remove the shrink-wrap around the old eye socket wires and flasher wires. Then the eye bulb sockets can be removed with the wires and molex connectors intact. Only the flasher wiring remains and you can snake down the power leads from the mod through the same playfield hole under the beast ramp.

Good luck!

1 week later
#122 2 years ago

I would pm or email F-2niro directly and he can help you out. I currently have an intermittent buggy eye, but I am still troubleshooting if it's the board or screen. He's very helpful and hopefully you can work out your particular issue.

Keep us posted once you get to the bottom of what's going on.

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