(Topic ID: 142115)

Scared Stiff flipper buttons not responding

By FLflier

8 years ago


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#1 8 years ago

Need some help with Scared Stiff flipper buttons not responding:
My flipper buttons were unresponsive so I replaced the opto boards. I received the flipper opto boards from bigdaddy (very nicely made btw) and installed them, however my flippers still don't work. With the new boards installed, neither flipper button registers on the switch test. Both flipper coils actuate just fine however from the test menu so I know the coils are fine. It acts like both flipper buttons are completely disconnected however I double checked the wiring connector and it's correctly and firmly seated on each opto board (they only go on one way anyhow). I also checked the opto interrupter and it looks perfectly aligned on both optos and clears the opto when the button is pressed. I can't imagine there is anything wrong with the new boards, I am wondering what I should be checking next. I have uploaded some pictures including pictures of the optos and the board they connect to in the lower front of the cabinet. Thanks in advance for any help from someone smarter then me
Casey

-1
#2 8 years ago

Is the machine plugged in?

#3 8 years ago

Check j139 on driver board, two wires on the connector, they control flippers. Check that you have continuity from j139 to the flipper opto board and board by coin door. check fuses too

#4 8 years ago

Thanks a lot for the reply Lermods. I checked continuity b/t J139 and the board by the coin door. There were only 3 wires, and all checked out good from end to end with the ohm meter. The meter probe wouldn't fit into the connector ports so I made contact on the back of the connecter where it bites into the wire, but the connectors look to be in decent shape. I also checked all fuses on the driver board with the ohm meter (checked them while in place on the circuit board, hope that is a good test).

#5 8 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

check fuses too

This was my immediate first thought also as Ive had it happen. Both flippers went out at the same time right? Curious about how you tested on those fuses. I'd replace them regardless or move them around to identify the bad one if its there.

#6 8 years ago

I would guess the next thing to check is to see if you are getting voltage from j139 to the flipper boards. i think you should have 12v at the connector. If you don't, then I think next you would want to test the associated transistor and you'd likely have to remove the board if you can't reach the legs. Hopefully someone with mor experience than me chimes in, I'm still learninG.

Is the game new to you and did the flippers ever work since you've had the game? What were you doing when the flippers went dead, assuming they weren't already dead?

#7 8 years ago

Thanks alot PinRebal and Lermods for your replies.

Yes, both flippers went out at the same time. I replaced the opto boards in the first place because i had intermittent flipper issues in the past and figured replacing the boards was a logical starting point. I didn't turn the game on for a year while I was procrastinating ordering the parts. Finally I ordered the opto boards, took the sheet off the game, and installed them. After I replaced the optos the game worked beautifully. For one night I had my Elvira back, then the next day neither flipper worked. I was a bit pi$$ed off to say the lease.

So tonight I removed each fuse on the Power Driver board and they all checked fine with the Ohm meter. I also checked the for 12v at the opto boards and both sides tested at 12.7v (this was tricky because apparently the power from the left side powers the right side however the connector on the left needs to be plugged into the board for the power to transfer to the right side).

Hmmm, what is the probability that the new boards both self destructed at the same time, LOL! Well, I guess now should try to take the opto boards out of one of my other games and try them just to prove that wrong.

Thanks,
Casey

#8 8 years ago
Quoted from FLflier:

  I also checked the opto interrupter and it looks perfectly aligned on both optos and clears the opto when the button is pressed. I can't imagine there is anything wrong with the new boards, I am wondering what I should be checking next. I have uploaded some pictures including pictures of the optos and the board they connect to in the lower front of the cabinet. Thanks in advance for any help from someone smarter then me
Casey

From pin repair. Pinwiki
On (WPC-95) the flipper switches go to CPU board connector J212.

On fliptronics games, there can be a very rare and unusual problem with the fliptronics board. There is +50 volts power at the flipper coils (and the coils & diodes are good), but flipper switches just don't seem to work. This can be caused by a failed flipper switch input chip at location U5 (74HCT244) on the fliptronics board.

#9 8 years ago

Thanks a lot Erak.

If its a rare problem then I probably have it. It wouldn't surprise me with this machine. I do see that small chip located at U5 under the battery tray you mentioned but I am assuming without special equipment there is no way to check if its working or not. I also have a monster bash machine as well. Would i be able to take the fliptronics board out and try it in my scared stiff machine to see if this fixes the issue? Would I have to swap out the rom chip? Im scared I will break my monster bash if I do but I will do anything to get elvira talking to me again

Thanks,
Casey

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#10 8 years ago

Check:

* J119
* J120
* Make sure the coin door is shut all the way
* Coin Door Interface Board - make sure all connectors are tight
* Fuses: 115 thru 118 again

Good Luck!

#11 8 years ago

MB and SS don't have fliptronics boards. On WPC 95, fliptronics was integrated into the driver board.

Check for 12 volts at the opto boards. That's the most likely thing that could cause this.

#12 8 years ago

Thanks John and Skyemont,

I checked all fuses, and connectors on J119 and J120 are firmly connected. I actually reseated both of them just to make sure.

The meter shows I'm getting about 12.9 volts to both left and right flipper optos. I also removed the flipper optos and installed them in my monster bash machine to test them and they both work perfectly. Interestingly on the switch edges test each opto has two switches. I never knew that but makes sense because I can see there are dual optos on each board (I assume there for redundancy). Anyway, its 3:20 am.. back to the drawing board. Sigh...

Casey

#13 8 years ago
Quoted from FLflier:

Both flipper coils actuate just fine however from the test menu so I know the coils are fine.

Quoted from erak:

On (WPC-95) the flipper switches go to CPU board connector J212.

Quoted from FLflier:

The meter shows I'm getting about 12.9 volts to both left and right flipper optos.

Yes, and if both flippersbuttons stopped at the same time, the orange wire at 212-13 would be 1st suspect. Its the common (GND).
So, putting ground to J212-12 and J212-11 would (should) fire the flippers.
flipp-butt-inp-wpc95.jpgflipp-butt-inp-wpc95.jpg

#14 8 years ago

Thanks a lot zaza. I tried to ground J212-12 and J212-11 and no joy. I tested with the connector on (touching the metallic strip on the outer part of the connector for pin 12 and 11) I have attached some pictures of how I did this. I also tried with the connector off directly putting a ground on pin 12 and 11) While I tested, I had the game in switch edge test mode and the high power override button pulled out.

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#15 8 years ago

Ok, I believe I have narrowed this down to the CPU board.. Since directly grounding J212-12 and J212-11 eliminated all the wiring and it still didn't register anything on the CPU. I took the board out of the back box and noticed the batteries leaked all over the place and made a huge mess. I have a feeling this may have fried something on the board and some of the solder joints are now black. Also, the board looks like its blistering a little on the edge. I have uploaded some pics but you may not be able to see the damage.

Does anyone happen to know where I can send this board for analysis / repair? Or are there replacements available?

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#16 8 years ago

Has anybody ever heard of http://www.twobits.com/ for circuit board repair?

#17 8 years ago

Several pinsiders do boards: ChrisHibler, JohnWartJr, Borygard, Barakandl.

#18 8 years ago

I'm kinda on the edge of whether or not I'd consider that economically repairable, considering how much it's spread. Can't really estimate it til I see it, but alkaline is usually worse than the photos make it appear.

A rottendog CPU is $180 from Big Daddy, you'd have to move your ASIC, proc and ROM. You'll want to look real close at these chips on your original MPU, and make sure they aren't corroded. If they are, you need to clean them up carefully. Maybe a soak in 91% or better isopropryl alcohol, clean the legs with a fiberglass pen, etc.

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