(Topic ID: 327806)

Scared Stiff Coin Door Lights and Hackery

By mal7887

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by zaza
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 1 year ago

Greetings All,

I've had a scared stiff for a few years and the coin door lights have never worked. I finally got around to messing with it today. According to the manual power is supplied from J110, I am measuring 7.42v AC on Pin 1 (white) and 5.4v AC on Pin 3 (purple). There is a hack directly adjacent to the J110 connector that was there when I bought it, that I have not ever looked into or messed with.

Can someone help me make sense of what I am looking at here? The diodes have all been cut out and 4 Jumper wires have been installed. There are also some very obvious burn marks. D30 would also go to J110 Pin 3, which goes to coin door. Is this hack a potential part of the problem?

First two photos are of the hack in question, 3rd photo is of MM for comparison.

Thanks,

Matt

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#2 1 year ago
Quoted from mal7887:

Can someone help me make sense of what I am looking at here? The diodes have all been cut out and 4 Jumper wires have been installed. There are also some very obvious burn marks. D30 would also go to J110 Pin 3, which goes to coin door. Is this hack a potential part of the problem?

Not a hack it's a service bulletin recommendation.

Measure voltage at your coin door lamp sockets and trace back from there.

#3 1 year ago

install a wire like this and you're good
string 5 (resized).pngstring 5 (resized).png

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

Not a hack it's a service bulletin recommendation.
Measure voltage at your coin door lamp sockets and trace back from there.

Good to know

I am only getting 2.25v at the sockets on the door. Same at connector going into coin door interface board. Guessing there is a break in the wire somewhere or bad connection at the harness plug. I'll see if I can trace back to figure out where.

Thanks for the response.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from zaza:

install a wire like this and you're good
[quoted image]

Does this need to be done? I don't want to fix something that isn't broken. This machine is 100% LEDs.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from mal7887:

Does this need to be done?

Yes, if the jumpers were installed correct (like below), it would have worked. Now it is only a reinforcement of the traces and GI#5 is not powered.

mod string 5 (resized).pngmod string 5 (resized).png

#7 1 year ago

I would take any advice given by zaza and do it.

Quoted from mal7887:

I am measuring 7.42v AC on Pin 1 (white) and 5.4v AC on Pin 3 (purple).

I am not sure how you are measuring VAC. VAC is usually measured from point to point and not point to reference. For WPC GI, one side of the GI is tied to ground (reference). Measure the GRN string for a control. Both the GRN and VIO strings on WPC-95 are always on (not software controlled).

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from zaza:

Yes, if the jumpers were installed correct (like below), it would have worked. Now it is only a reinforcement of the traces and GI#5 is not powered.
[quoted image]

Made the changes to board as you suggested and it's fixed now.
Thank you for your help.

Trivial issue I know, but it always bugged me that these didn't work.

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#9 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I would take any advice given by zaza and do it.

I am not sure how you are measuring VAC. VAC is usually measured from point to point and not point to reference. For WPC GI, one side of the GI is tied to ground (reference). Measure the GRN string for a control. Both the GRN and VIO strings on WPC-95 are always on (not software controlled).

You are correct that I was not measuring point to point. Noted for future troubleshooting

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from mal7887:

it's fixed now.

Well done.
I assume there is also more light in the backbox, behind the translite

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